tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-46132323664685653892024-03-13T22:45:11.564+01:00Mai no caminaré solRelat d'una volta al món en 1018 dies (Català & English)Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-83004561446008647862012-10-16T01:03:00.000+02:002012-10-17T19:27:48.356+02:00Fantastic Cambodia!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; color: black; text-align: left;">
<span style="color: blue;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2H_bHY3uTqGR-o1qHHVUM_8evXM30toW3nKf3dDiW6OAh7v3hWnhF-RhvnasUwbjkcdy4cyeuGH0RX3VYStwMCsm5kUDg4EubNXywRmYyb4MQqJYKzm-oBAoklVUnhUSP1VcMdXdLjLXM/s1600/Cambodja+%281%29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="color: blue;">Cambodia was my last country in this trip of almost 3 years and I wanted to do it well, not like 10 years ago when I only visited the temples of Angkor. This time I wanted to go off the beaten track, to explore the real Cambodia, the part less touristy. It had been a huge empire that included parts of Thailand, Viernam, Laos and the current Cambodia. The Khmer empire had been powerful in the whole area and you can notice this in the temples with Khmer style that you can see in Chiang Mai or Sukhotai in Thailand or Champasak in Laos.</span><br /><br style="color: black;" /><span style="color: black;">Cambodja era el meu darrer país en quasi 3 anys i volia visitar-lo de forma correcta, no com 10 anys abans quan només vaig poder veure els temples d'Angkor. Aquesta vegada volia sortir de la ruta turística, explorar la Cambodja real, la més autèntica. Cambodja, abans conegut com Imperi Khmer, havia sigut un imperi gegant que incloía parts de Tailàndia, Laos, Vietnam i la Cambodja d'avui en dia. Havia sigut un imperi molt poderós, cosa que es pot comprovar amb els temples d'estil Khmer que es poder trobar a Chiang Mai o Sukhotai (Tailàndia) o a Champasak a Laos.</span></a></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">In Banlung Alex and me had a lot of fun riding the motorbike, mainly under the rain and in the mud, and exploring the rural areas, villages, waterfalls, lakes, markets and talking to the locals. If I was somewhat disappointed by people from Laos, I was very happy with Cambodians. They are genuinely friendly! They smile at you and say hello whenever they have the opportunity. Sometimes you had to look around to find out who was greeting you. We loved the region and the people.</span><br />
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A Banlung, l'Alex i jo ens ho vam passar de conya anant amb moto, principalment sota la pluja i pel fang, i explorant arees rurals, pobles, cascades, llacs, mercats i parlant amb els locals. Si vaig estar bastant decebut amb la gent de Laos (per no ser gaire amables) estava molt content amb la simpatia dels cambodjans. Són genuinament molt amables! Sempre t'estant somrient i et diuen hola quan en tenen la oportunitat. A vegades has de començar a buscarper saber qui t'ha saludat. Ens va encantar la regió i la gent.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Our next stop was Kratie where we saw the grey dolphins in the Mekong river. For about an hour we observed these beautiful creatures from a boat. You keep wondering how these dolphins came so far up in the mighty Mekong river. Curious. It was a nice experience, different from the time I saw the pink dolphins in the Amazon.</span><br />
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La nostra propera parada era Kratie on vam poder observar els dofins grisos del riu Mekong. Durant una hora vam anar voltant amb barca pel riu veient una vintena de dofins. Una experiència maca, diferent de quan vaig veure els dofins roses a l'Amazones. Et preguntes, quina raó tenien aquests animals per pujar tant riu amunt? <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The day after, with the same guide, a boy with his tuk-tuk, took us for a full day trip to visit the area. We saw temples, we went fishing, we met his family and had lunch at his house, we walked in the countryside, we visited Muslim villages, played with dozens of children, talked to monks, ... it was a fantastic day. And the sticky rice in coconut milk inside of a bamboo stick was delicious!</span><br />
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El dia després, amb el mateix noi que ens haviat quiat i el seu tuk-tuk, vam anar a explorar la zona. Vam veure temples, vam pescar, vam conèixer la seva família mentre dinàvem a casa seva, vamb caminar pel camp, vam visitar poblets musulmans, vam jugar amb desenes de nens, vam parlar amb monjos... un dia fantàstic, d'aquells que acabes esgotat i satisfet.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Phnom Pehn is probably one of my favorites cities in all South East Asia. It's so lively and charming that we extended our stay a couple of days. We had drinks in hotel roof top terraces, we met old friends and had terrible innards with noodles. One of the more interesting parts, but at the same time more painful and emotional, was to visit the two main genocide museums. </span><br />
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Phnom Pehn is una de les meves ciutats preferides al Sudest Asiàtic. Es una ciutat tan encantadora i plena de vida que vam extendre la nostra estada dos dies. Anàvem a passejar pel passeig a la vora del riu, anàvem a fer cervesetes a la terrassa d'un hotel amb unes vistes increïbles, ens vam trobar vells amics i vam menjar entranyes d'animals fastigoses amb sopa de fideus. Una de les parts més interessants i, al mateix temps, de les més doloroses i emotives, va ser la visita als dos museus del genocidi.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">In April 1975, Pol Pot, a man that had previously gone to unsuccessfully study in Paris, started one of the most terrible genocides of our time. He killed a quarter of the population of his country, almost 3 million people. He wanted to establish a radical communism. Only the peasants were accepted. Everything related to foreign influence had to be eliminated: cars, motorbikes, jewels, books, musical instruments, watches... everything that came from the devil. Pol Pot was the leader of the Khmer Rouges (because they were communists) and his Government (called the Angkor) ordered the evacuation of all cities in Cambodia and took them to forced work camps and villages. They would work cultivating rice (to sell to China in exchange of weapons) and die of starvation, disease or executed by the Angkor. Their target were rich people, doctors, teachers, other people with studies, people wearing glasses, weak people, civil servants from the former government... families were separated and many women and children were raped.</span><br />
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A l'abril del 1975, Pol Pot, un home que havia anat a estudiar a París sense resultats gaire positius, va tornar amb la intenció de crear un comunisme radical dels més extrems que s'han viscut mai. Va provocar un dels genocidis més terribles de la nostra era durant la qual va matar a quasi 3 milions de persones, una quarta part de la població cambojana. Només els pagesos no estaven perseguits. Tot el que estava relacionat amb la influència estrangera era eliminat: vehicles, joies, llibres, instruments musicals, rellotges... Pol Pot era el lider del Khmer Rojos i el seu govern era anomenat Angkor. Va ordenar evacuar totes les ciutats i la gent es va refugiar en pobles on puguéssin tenir familiars. Altres eren enviats a camps de treballs forçats on plantaven arròs (per vendre a la Xina a canvi d'armes), moririen de gana, a cause de malalties o assessinats pel règim. Tothom era una possible víctima: metges, professors, universitaris, funcionaris, persones que portéssin ulleres... les famílies eren separades i moltes dones de totes les edats eren violades. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">In January 1979, the Vietnamese liberated Cambodia from the Khmer Rouges of Pol Pot and the tyrants went to hide at the west of the country. The UN, shame on them, never accepted the new government, so the Khmer Rouge kept representing Cambodia in the UN until 1991. How can it be? How is it possible that assassins that killed almost 3 million people in their own country were accepted to represent Cambodia in the UN? Political reasons are not enough for to understand this huge mistake. The trials against the Khmer Rouges are taking place these days in Phnom Pehn. It's possible to attend. Pol Pot died some years ago without being ever tried.</span><br />
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Al Gener del 1979, els vietnamites van alliberar Cambodja dels Khmer Rojos de Pol Pot i aquests van haver d'escapar-se a l'oest del país. Les Nacions Unides, de forma vergonyosa, mai no van acceptar el nou govern. Per tant, els assassins dels Khmer Rojos van seguir representant el seu país a la UN fins el 1991! Com pot ser? Com pot ser que les Nacions Unides que té la principal missió de mantenir la pau al món van acceptar que uns assassins que van quasi anniquil·lar un poble sencer puguéssin representar-los? La política no és una raó suficient per permetre una tal aberració. Ara tenen lloc els judicis contra alguns del liders dels Khmer vermells. Pol Pot va morir fa anys sense haver estat mai jutjat.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The first museum we visited was the Prison of Tuol Sleng or S-21, where around 15.000 people were kept in tiny cubicles, interrogated, photographed, tortured, and killed. It's so touching to see hundreds of photos of people that have disapeared after being tortured and killed. Sometimes you can see picures of mothers with small babies in their arms. Horrible. Only 7 people survived and the main reason is because they were artists that were asked to paint the Khmer Rouge leaders.</span><br />
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El primer museu que vam visitar era el de la presó de Tuol Sleng o S-21 on van empresonar 15.000 persones, les van interrogar, fotografiar, torturar i matar a sang freda. És terrible veure centenars de fotos a les parets de gent que allà van matar. Moltes fotos són de dones amb bebès als braços i aquests tampoc se'n van escapar. Només van sobreviure 7 persones, tot homes, i va ser perquè eren pintors que van ser utilitzats pels seus butxins, per pintar retrats del líders d'aquella bàrbarie.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The ones that had not being killed in the prison, were taken to the Killing Fields. Other 15.000 people died here, none survived. Music was loud to hide the screams of the ones who were going to die. To save bullets, they were killed with axes, hammers, bamboo sticks or other weapons. Kids were killed smashed against a tree. They were thrown to mass graves, sometimes, still alive, and buried. Today you can see the holes, pieces of clothes from the victims that are unburied by visitors walking by, mass graves with babies and women, decapitated people, skulls classified by ages and gender. None was spared.</span><br />
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Els que no van matar allà, els portàven als Camps d'extermini. 15.000 persones més van morir aquí. No va sobreviure ningú. Posaven música forta per amagar els crits dels presoners abans de morir. Per estalviar bales, la gent era assessinada amb matxets, martells, destrals o a cops de bastó. Els bebes eren matats agafant-los pels peus i estrellant-los contra un arbre. Els cossos eren tirats en fosses comunes, a vegades encara en vida, i avui encara es poden veure els forats de les fosses que s'han obert. També es poden veure torços de roba que són desenterrats pels turistes quan caminen per la zona. Es veuen òssos, dents, calaveres classificades per gènere i edat. Hi han fosses amb dones, altres amb nens, altres amb persones decapitades... <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">After all this pain, it's admirable to see the friendliness of the locals, their smile, their generosity. Every time I see one of them I think about what they had to endure, how many people of their families they have lost, how many have disapeared and never seen again... I love cambodians and I wish them the best future. But not everything is sad in Phnom Pehn. People are nice, restaurants and bars are very lively, the royal palace is interesting and the markets are great and the promenade by the river is lovely. </span><br />
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Quan veig tot el que van patir, crec que és admirable l'amabilitat del locals. Sempre somriuen i són generosos. Cada vegada que els miro als ulls, em pregunto a quants familiars van perdre, a quants veïens no han tornat a veure mai més o si van passar molta gana. M'encanten els cambodjans i els desitjo un futur pròsper i feliç. Però no tot és trist a Phnom Pehn. Fora d'aquests espais, el món és diferent, la gent és amable, els restaurants i bars estan plens de vida, el palau reial és interessants de veure o el passeig del riu és d'allò més relaxant.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">From the beautiful Phnom Pehn we went to the coast, to the small village of Kep, famous for its crabs in Kampot pepper sauce. The crabs were good but the sauce was delicious! We swam, we walked around, and we ate lots of crabs every day! Nice days in Kep even if the village had not much to offer.</span><br />
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Des de la maca Phnom Pehn vam anar cap a la costa, al petit poble de pescadors anomenat Kep. És famós pels seus crancs en salsa de pebre de Kampot. Els crancs eren bons però la salsa era deliciosa! Vam nadar a la platja, vam menjar crancs cada dia i vam passejar pel poble. Van ser uns dies de descans en un poble que tampoc té massa a oferir.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Battambang was our next city and we liked it a lot. What I liked much more was the things to do around it: the bamboo train, the temples, the villages, the ruins or the tuk-tuk rides. We spend 5 days exploring the area. We had such a good time. The people were always the highlight. Then we took the boat to Siem Reap. Despite the hotel clerk and other people didn't recommend it, I loved it! The landscapes were great, the villages interesting and playing with the kids on board is always a wonderful experience.</span><br />
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Battambang va ser la nostra següent destinació, una ciutat que ens va agradar bastant. El millor és tot el què es pot fer pels voltants: el tren de bambú, visitar temples, els poblets, les ruines, els passejos en bicicleta. Vam estar 5 dies explorant la zona i ho vam passar molt bé. Tanmateix, la gent sempre era el millor. D'allà vam agafar un barco per un riu fins a la ciutat de Siem Reap. Ens va agradar molt. Els paisatges eren xulos, els poblets interessants i jugar amb els nens durant la llarga travesia sempre és una experiència fantàsica.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">What can I say about Siem Reap that hasn't been said before? The temples of Ankor are absolutely fantastic and our friend Doris, which I travelled with in Laos, came to join us. The 3 of us had great fun and spend quality time together. I'll always remember these days with nostalgia. Everything was fantastic until I got sick and couldn't leave the bed for 5 days. I was annoyed I missed my third day to the temples and I spend my last days of my 3 years trip in bed.... Doris and Alex took care of me. Thank you very much. I love you guys!!! During these days until the day to go home finally came. This day I had feared so much but waited so much aswell, had come. I was still very weak and ill to travel but I couldn't lose this flight. It was a very hard trip but I tried to sleep as much as I could.</span><br />
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Què puc dir de Siem Reap i els temples d'Angkor que no s'hagi dit abans? Són absolutament increïbles i la nostra amiga Doris, amb la qual vaig viatjar pel nord de Laos, ens va acompanyar durant aquests dies. Tots 3 ens ho vam passar super bé explorant els temples. Sempre recordo aquells dies amb nostàlgia. Tot va anar molt bé fins que em vaig posar malalt i em vaig haver de passar 5 dies al llit. Lamentablement, em vaig perdre el meu tercer dia de visites als temples, però l'Alex i la Doris em van cuidar molt bé. Mil gràcies! Us estimo! Finalment, el dia de tornar a casa va arribar. Era un dia temut i desitjat alhora. Estava molt feble i malalt però no podia perdre el meu vol. Va ser un viatge duríssim però va anar força bé, sense retraços i podent dormir moltes hores.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">My lovely family was waiting for me in Barcelona airport late at night. A beautiful moment. Everybody was much happier than the day I left. It would be weird to be home, to sleep in my bed, to have a room or to eat what my mother prepared. This was the end of an amazing adventure... or a new beginning.</span><br />
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La meva fantàstica família m'estava esperant a l'aeroport de Barcelona tard a la nit. El retrobament va ser una moment maco. Tothom estava molt més content que la darrera vegada que ens vam veure en aquest mateix aeroport 3 anys abans. Va ser estrany tornar a ser a casa, dormir al meu llit, tenir una habitació, menjar casolà. Això va ser el final d'una aventura increïble... o un nou començament. <br />
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-41444351753273479602012-08-19T16:19:00.001+02:002012-08-19T16:19:12.683+02:00Caves, Ruins and People in Southern Laos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">Alex and I wanted to
visit nothern and southern Laos; the south being the least touristic part. The
big majority of backpackers usually only visit the north part and then go south
from Hanoi to Saigon following the Vietnamese coast, forgetting the south part
of Laos. We both have already been to Vietnam so we decide to visit the
southern part of Laos that has many interesting attractions.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">L'Alex i jo visitem
tot Laos de nord a sud; la part sud siguen molt poc turística. Normalment, els
altres motxil·leros només visiten el nord ja que és on es concentren la majoria
d'atraccions del país oblidant-se de tot el sud. Després, baixen en direcció
sud des de Hanoi fins a Saigon recorrent tota la costa de Vietnam. Nosaltres ja
hem estat prèviament a Vietnam així que volem visitar el sud de Laos que guarda
algunes joies que tenim moltes ganes de veure.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">The first one is the
underground river of Kong Lo, and of course, it's impossible not to compare it
to the one in the Philippines. There's many differences between both but at the
end, it's almost the same: they are rivers in caves. The good aspects of the
one in Laos is that not being a Wonder of the World, it's not very well known
so there's not many tourists. Well, actually there's almost none, so it's much
cheaper and the experience is better. Moreover, you go all the way into the
cave and you exit the cave on the other side. It's a 7.5 km cave and for a
while you leave the boat behind to avoid some rapids and to see the rocky
formations. My personal opinion is that the one in the Philippines is not that
bad (even if criticized by many) and the one in Laos is not that good (even if
admired by many). The experiences are different but the underground rivers are
almost the same. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">La primera és el riu
subterrani de Kong Lo i és clar, ens és impossible no comparar-lo amb el de
Filipines. Hi han moltes diferències entre ambdós però al cap i a la fi, són
quasi el mateix, dos rius dins d'una cova. El millor del de Laos és que quasi
no hi han turistes així que la experiència és molt més bona i autèntica. A més
recorres tota la cova, fins que surts a laltre costat a l'aire lliure. Es
tracta d'una cova de 7.5 quilòmetres i, durant el trajecte, abandones la
barqueta uns minuts per evitar uns ràpids i poder gaudir de les formacions
rocoses. La meva opinió és que ni la de Filipines és tan lletja (molta gent la
critica) ni la de Laos és tan maca (tothom l'admira). Les experiències són molt
diferents però la cova i el riu subterrani són quasi els mateixos. Per a mi, un
empat.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCCn2oa_UCBAYO1_dnS8WiA1NB_1rZUq0qpFZToX3_4pMD4cO07L38Y128MMN3-bGj2NX59sIj8ckeyjsR4qOaAcwH4UL958hu4o_3bCuW14HlEJuVvypgKm5MbKfpj71I440-Ouv43JV/s1600/KLC+(37).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWCCn2oa_UCBAYO1_dnS8WiA1NB_1rZUq0qpFZToX3_4pMD4cO07L38Y128MMN3-bGj2NX59sIj8ckeyjsR4qOaAcwH4UL958hu4o_3bCuW14HlEJuVvypgKm5MbKfpj71I440-Ouv43JV/s640/KLC+(37).JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&num=200&start=193&t=m&ll=16.299051,103.491211&spn=14.725475,18.676758&z=5&output=embed" width="425"></iframe><br /><small>View <a href="https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&num=200&start=193&t=m&ll=16.299051,103.491211&spn=14.725475,18.676758&z=5&source=embed" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Volta el mon</a> in a larger map</small><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">From there, it took
many hours even traveling at night to get to Savannakhet. We arrived at
midnight and we could have a cold beer and a noodle soup. That was surprising
because in many cities in the touristy north of the country restaurants and
bars have to close at 10 pm.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">D'allà ens va costar
moltes hores d'autocar arribar a Savannakhet, una ciutat més al sud. Vam
arrivar a les 12 de la nit amb molta gana i curiosament aquí, a diferència de
moltes ciutats turístiques del nord del país, no tanquen bars i restaurants a
les 10. Així que acompanyat d'una parella d'australians ens vam beure una
cervesa i vam menjar una deliciosa sopa de fideus com a ressopó.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">Savannakhet is a
colonial city not as much beautiful as Luang Prabang but it's very pleasant to
wander around and people are surprisingly friendly. Kids and adults are
welcoming us from everywhere for the first time in Laos. It seems evident that
there's not many tourists around here. And this is my dilema about people in
Laos. Are they friendly? Everybody I met before say they are but my friend
Maike was the only person who told me they are very unfriendly. This surprised
me and honestly I didn't believe her much.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Savannakhet és una
ciutat colonial però que no li arriba a les soles de les sabates a Luang
Prabang en termes d'edificis, paisatges i cultura. Tanmateix, és molt agradable
per caminar i la gent és sorprenentment amable. Aquí, nens i adults surten de
tot arreu per a saludar-nos i fins i tot, a vegades, hem de buscar la persona
que ens ha saludat ja que ens costa de veure-la. Es nota que no hi han gaires
turistes... i aquí arribo a un dilema que he tingut a Laos. És la gent
simpàtica? Doncs tothom, absolutament sempre, m'havia dit que la gent de Laos
era molt simpàtica. En canvi, la meva amiga Maike, d'Alemanya, va ser l'única
persona que em va dir que no són gens simpàtics. Això em va extranyar bastant i
honestament, no me la vaig creure gaire.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">Maike was right.
Their friendliness is no genuine. They only say hello if you say hello first,
and you don't always get an answer. After 3 years traveling this was my way to
know if people are friendly, and in Laos, with the exception of Savannakhet,
they aren't. I have a couple of examples. Some friends had a motorbike
accident. They were badly hurt and bleeding a lot. They asked the man with the
only car in the village to help them and take them to the closest hospital. The
man asked for more than a 100 dolars. After a lot of negotiation and trying
other ways, they had to pay what was asked.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">La Maike tenia raó.
La simpatia de la gent local no és genuina. Si tu no dius hola, ells no et
diran hola, i no sempre et contestaran. Després de quasi 3 anys viatjant,
aquesta és la meva forma de saber si són simpatics o no. I a Laos, amb la
excepció de Savannakhet, no ho són. A més, tinc un parell d'exemples. Uns amics
van tenir un accident de moto a prop d'un poblet. Amb ferides per a tot arreu i
sagnant com porcs, es van dirigir a l'única casa que tenia cotxe per
demanar-los si els podien dur a l'hospital més proper. El propietari els va
demanar més de 100 dòlars. I no es van moure d'allà fins que no va pagar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">And what I lived:
Alex and me were traveling in a van and we got stuck in the mud. After pushing
for some time and not succeding getting the car out of the mud, I asked the
local people, about a hundred, that were looking at us while laughing at us.
They had a great time seeing us pushing and being covered by mud and despite my
pleading for help, they kept laughing at us. They didn't move a muscle until
the driver gave them money. I also have witnessed many motorbike accidents and
the local people can only laugh at the poor old grandpas laying at the ground
in the middle of a wet road. They never help anyone, they just have fun, even
more when I try to help them. I'm sorry but I don't like them. They are so
unfriendly! Bad people with some exception, of course.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Un exemple propi:
l'Alex i jo anàvem en camioneta i de sobte ens vam quedar estancats pel fang.
Erem 10 al cotxe i després de molt empènyer vam veure que no podiem treure el
cotxe d'allà. Jo vaig demanar ajuda al centenar de persones locals que s'ho
miraven i es morien de riure mentre empenyíem i ens omplíem de fang. Fins que
el conductor no els va pagar diners, allà no va moure ningú un dit. A part
d'això, he vist molts accidents de motos a Laos degut a les pluges. Quan això
passa, l'únic que saben fer ell locals, és morir-se de riure, o riure's de mi
quan els vaig a ajudar. Per tant, els tinc molta mania. De simpàtics res, són
uns mal parits enormes, amb algunes excepcions, és clar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">We also visited some
Khmer ruins in Champasak. Laos once belonged to the Khmer empire known today as
Cambodia. It was very interesting and the landscapes were great. It's a group
of temples hidden in a part of jungle that are worth visiting.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Vam visitar les
ruines Khmers de Champasak (tot Laos va pertànyer a l'imperi Khmer avui conegut
com Cambodja). Va ser interessant i les vistes impressionants. Es tracta d'una
serie de temples, alguns amagats dins la vegetació de la selva.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">Our last stop was Don
Det in Four Thousand islands. It's like an inner delta. The Mekong river is
very wide and there's islands in the middle with some small villages. It's very
beautiful. The bungalows are cheap and next to the river, good atmosphere, nice
restaurants and many things to do. The last day we rented bicicles and we went
to a different island linked by a bridge that once had rails for a train. We
went to beautiful waterfalls and crossed interesting river towns. It was a
fantastic day.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Per acabar, vam anar
a Don Det, a les 4 mil illes que és com un delta interior. És a dir, una part
del riu s'eixampla i quan el nivell no és gaire elevat, sembla que hi hagin
illes. Tothom m'havia dit que era molt maco i tenien raó. Habitacions barates
davant del riu, restaurants per tot arreu, bon ambient motxil·lero. El darrer
dia vam llogar unes bicicletes i vam anar a l'illa del costat a veure unes
cascades impressionants tenint en comptes que es tracta del riu Mekong! Va ser
un dia genial on ens vam ficar per caminets de cabra on els turistes no
s'arrisquen a anar.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">The bad part of this
paradise is that it's all a rat trap for tourists, a rip off. Food was more
expensive than anywhere else and the scales to weight the laundry are wrong! If
you have 2 kg, they show 4 kg. It was terrible. It was difficult to find one
that was right. On the other side, they have a monopoly for transportation. If
you buy a bus ticket, you cannot get on
the boat to leave the island, there's no room for you. A 5 hours trip is 25 $ and
a short trip to the border (40 minutes) is 6 $. Usually it's 1 $ per hour. We
only booked a bus to the border hoping to find some kind of transportation on
the other side. The guy of the bus company laughed at us and even screamed to
us saying that we wouldn't find anything. Of course, it took only 5 minutes to
find another minivan.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Tanmateix, un paradís
com aquest havia de pagar el seu peatge. La gent local eren, quasi tots, uns
estafadors. El menjar costava el doble que a la resta del país, les balances
amb les quals et pesaven la roba bruta estaven trucades! Jo vaig portar una
bossa petita d'un quilo i mig i en sortien 3 quilos!!! I a l'Alex, que tota la
seva roba pesa 3 quilos, la balança li donava 4. Quina ràbia... són tan
lladres! A més, el transport per creuar a Cambodja està monopolitzat. Només
pots deixar l'illa amb les seves barques, però primer has de comprar un bitllet
de bus. Sinó, les barques estan plenes i no tenen lloc per a tu. Per un
trajecte de 5 hores et cobren 25 dòlars!!! Normalment haurien de ser 5. Al
final vam pagar fins a la frontera amb la idea d'agafar transport des d'allà.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">The official price of
the visa for Cambodia is 20 $ but the bus guy charges 30 dolars for doing all
the work with Immigration. Of course we did it ourselves. They charged for the
visa 23 $, plus 2 $ each side for the stamp on the passport! After 3 years
traveling in Africa, South America and Asia, this was the first time I had to
bribe anyone, and he was an immigration agent. As everything in this area, it's
a real rip off. It was very frustrating and enerving.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">El noi de l'agència
se'n va riure de mi i fins i tot em va cridar quan no vaig voler pagar més
enllà de la frontera. Deia que no trobaria transport... vaig tardar menys de 5
minuts en trobar-ne un i molt més barat. A més, després de 3 anys viatjant per
Àfrica, Amèrica del Sud i Àsia, he trobat la primera frontera on s'ha de
sobornar als agents d'imigració perquè et segellin el passaport! Molt fort i
indignant. El visat per entrar a Cambodja, de forma oficial, val 20 dòlars.
Ells te'n cobren 23. A més, si vols els segells d'entrada i sortida al
passaport et cobren 2 dòlars a ambdós costats! Fa una ràbia! Hi ha gent que
s'hi nega però sempre acaba amb crits, nervis, frustració i pèrdua de temps. A
més, també et volen enganyar amb una prova sanitària que et costa 1 dòlar (no
cal fer-la perquè és una burrada). Al final, t'han cobrat 28 dòlars quan en
realitat són 20. Bé, si no vols ni preocupar-te, el de l'autocar t'ho fa tota
la gestió per 30. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><span style="color: blue;">I left Laos being
very angry, upset, disappointed and frustrated. Laos is a very beautiful
country with amazing lanscapes, culture, traditions, good food but people are
becoming bad. Too many tourists I guess but Thailand have more tourists and
they don't have this problem, at least at the north part. I loved Laos but
every time I think about it, I cannot forget these upseting episodes and I get
angry. I hope one day I'll forget the bad things and only remember what an
amazing country Laos is. Now, we just hope Cambodia will be better.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Vaig sortir del país
enrabiat, amb molt mal sabor de boca, amb mala llet. Frustrat. Laos és un país
preciós, amb molta naturalesa, cultura, tradicions, bon menjar, però molta gent
s'està tornant dolenta. Per això m'agrada Tailàndia perquè malgrat tenir molts
més turistes, no els tracten com si fossin bitllets amb potes, almenys a la
part nord. A les illes del sud segur que la cosa canvia. Laos m'ha encantat
però cada vegada que recordo alguns episodis, no puc evitar enfadar-me. Espero
algun dia oblidar-ho i només recordar les coses bones. Esperem que Cambodja
sigui molt millor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-43098198011640251152012-08-03T13:04:00.000+02:002012-08-03T13:04:18.314+02:00Following the Mekong in northern Laos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">The Popular Republic of Laos, communist of course, is a country I was
very excited to explore. Many people had been telling me amazing things about
it and I had in my small book many things I was recommended to do. But Laos has
a black history. The borders with the communists in Vietnam made it a target
due to the Vietnamese escaping from the war and afterwards living in the
country. So the American government decided to bomb Laos during 8 years! From 1965
to 1973. Millions of bombs, one every 8 minutes. Can you believe that? Many of
them didn’t explode then but do today killing children playing in the jungle or
woman planting the rice. The empty shells can be seen everywhere all around the
country as decoration for gardens, terraces and restaurants.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">La República Popular de Laos (òbviament comunista) és un país que feia
molt de temps que volia visitar. Molta gent me n'havia parlat molt bé i tenia
moltes recomanacions de coses a fer. Però Laos té una història negra. La seva
proximitat amb Vietnam va proporcionar amagatall a milers de comunistes que s’escapaven
de la guerra i les bombes americanes. Per tant, el govern dels Estats Units no
va trobar res millor a fer que tirar varis milions de bombes en el seu
territori. Des de 1965 a 1973, el EUA van tirar una bomba cada 8 minuts!!! Us
ho podeu imaginar? Moltes no van esclatar, moltes encara esclaten avui i maten
a nens que juguen a la selva i dones que cultiven el seu arròs als camps.
Aquestes bombes sense esclatar o les carcasses ja buides serveixen avui per
decorar jardins, terrasses i restaurants.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">I entered Laos in the north, border with Thailand, where I wanted to
take the slow boat going to Luang Prabang. Many people told me it was their
highlight. It lasts two days with a stop in Pak Beng, a village that without
tourists wouldn’t probably survive. For me it was good but not great. I enjoyed
it but the landscapes and the river villages were not as good as I thought.
Well, my fault, I had too many expectations. I think that the landscapes are
too similar and very often a little bit boring. Anyway, I had a great time and
I made a lot of friends.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Vaig entrar pel nord, des de Tailàndia, on tenia pensat agafar la famosa
barca lenta que navega pel riu Mekong durant dos dies. Comença a Huay Xai i
acaba a Luang Prabang. Molta gent ho descriu com el seu highlight a Laos. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Jo ho vaig trobar bé
però que no mata. És a dir que els paisatges i la vida al riu estan bé però no
és res de l'altre món. A vegades una mica avorrit. A mig camí pares a Pak Beng
per dormir. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Un poblet al mig del no res amb restaurants i hostals
pels turistes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">Luang Prabang is a fantastic colonial city on the shores of the mighty
Mekong river. You can wander for hours through French building, old temples,
good restaurants, quiet streets and the best is strolling next to the river
where cheap restaurants serve delicious mango shakes and fried rice. It’s one
of most beautiful cities of South East Asia. I was there with some more people,
friends from the boat and we had a great time.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">I still don’t understand how it works in Laos but at 10pm all the
restaurants have to close and at 11pm it’s the turn of the bars. So where do
hundreds of drunk tourists go after 11? The answer is easy: the bowling alley.
There’s a law in this area where only the sportive events can sell alcohol at
night so a smart guy opened it and everybody goes there, You can imagine people
playing drunk, falling before releasing the bowl, not being able to go strait
when playing… very funny!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Luang Prabang és una ciutat fantàstica. Una ciutat colonial a la vora
del Mekong plena d'edificis d'estil francès, temples, restaurants bons,... una
de les ciutat més maques del sud-est asiàtic. Una passada amb majúscules! Allà
hi vaig arribar amb tots els amics que havia fet a la barca, erem uns 8. Encara
avui no he entès com funciona però a Laos, o almenys al nord del país, a les 10
tanquen tots els restaurants i a les 11 tanquen tots els bars. I la pregunta és
"on poses tots els turistes borratxos que volen sortir de festa?"
Doncs la resposta és ben senzilla. Només es pot vendre alcohol fins a les dues
de la matinada en els esdeveniments esportius. Així que algun llest va obrir
una bolera on tots els turistes i uns pocs locals van a jugar i a beure. Hi vam
anar la primera nit i va ser força divertit. La gent caient-se mentre tiren,
fent esses abans de tirar... un
espectacle!!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">We went to the famous waterfalls out of the city. I thought they would
be just ok but they were great! Many lagoons, different levels, many places to
swim, great atmosphere… The morning food market was also good but I couldn’t
make it, I was too sleepy in the morning and I just saw the monks at 5am lining
up with their bowls to receive rice from the people in the streets. It’s really
nice to see hundreds of monks walking in lines in Luang Prabang. Too early for
me though. The afternoon market was more for tourists and I had to endure a
hard punishment having to cross it every night with my girl friends. Boring!!!
Anyway, Luang Prabang is a magical city I love. Charming.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">També vam anar a les famoses cascades que estan a prop de la ciutat. Jo
m'esperava una merdeta de cascades i van resultar ser molt xules. Un munt de
llacunes, salts, cascades i gent per tot arreu. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">També hi ha un mercat de matí que he
de confessar no vaig visitar (els matins són per dormir) i un mercat de
tarda-nit on les noies del grup sempre em portaven mentre jo m'avorria com una
ostra! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">En fi, que Luang Prabang és una ciutat plena de màgia,
on passeges per la vora del riu mentre prens un mango shake o uns fideus
fregits. I pels qui es vulguin aixecar quan surt el sol, cap a les 5, poden
anar a veure les files de monjos demanant arròs als fidels que s'esperen al
carrer. És tot un espectacle de veure fileres amb centenars de monjos amb els
seus recipients voltant per la ciutat.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">In Luang Prabang I met Doris, the Austrian girl that was there waiting
for the credit card to be sent from home because she had been robbed. We
decided to go some days to the northern part of the country, in Luang Nam Tha,
famous for its trekking. The people in the van joined to form a big group and
we were 7 to spend 3 days in the National Park. The group was great, very
funny, but the trekking itself was not incredible. As it’s a jungle trek, the
landscapes are hidden by the trees so you don’t see much. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A Luang Prabang vaig conèixer a la Doris, d'Austria, i junts vam decidir
anar més cap al nord del país. Primer a Luang Nam Tha a fer un trekking per la
selva. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Ens
vam ajuntar tots els de la furgoneta per formar un grup més gran i que sortís
més barat. El grup va ser maco però el trekking no va ser res de l'altre món. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Els paisatges estaven amagats per la selva pel què no veies gaire. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">El darrer dia, a un
dels guies se li va trencar una xancla (perquè caminava amb xancles per la
selva, com tothom) i va haver d'anar descals durant dues hores en un bosc de bamboo
on no seguiem el camí!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">The first night we slept in a village where we tried to play with the
kids but they were very shy. The adults just ignored us so it was not a great
experience with the local villagers. One of the guides had a flip flop broken
when walking in a very difficult terrain (no path but very steep) in a bamboo forest.
He didn’t care, he walked barefoot! The second night we slept in a hut with a
bee hive! I was bitten 3 times. It was horrible always to worry about them. So
stressing! I slept outside of the mosquito net because I had no place inside.
Luckily, the bees also sleep at night.</span></span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">La primera nit vam dormir en un poblat on vam jugar amb els nens, que
realment no va ser gaire perquè eren molt tímids, i els adults passaven
completament de nosaltres. La segona nit vam dormir al mig de la selva, en una
cabana on hi havia un niu d'abelles!!! Me'n va picar 3. Va ser horrorós, quin
estrés estar sempre pendent d'elles. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Però a la nit les abelles se'n van a dormir i
vaig poder dormir fora de la mosquitera ja que m'havia quedat sense espai a
dins. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Pel matí, amb les primeres llums del sol, les abelles
van tornar a sortir i els companys em van deixar un espai per poder continuar
dormint.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">After the trekking came the relax. With Doris and a couple of germans,
we went to the beautiful village of Muang Ngoi. A marvelous place in front of
the river where the views are spectacular, the food is amazing, the children
play in the water (with me), silence is everywhere. We didn’t trek, we didn’t
walk much, we actually didn’t do much apart from eating, drinking mango shakes,
reading and sleeping. A special place where I could stay for a month but
please, don’t go there, too many people will ruin it! hahaha</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">La segona parada que faria amb la Doris i una parella d'alemanys, seria
el preciós poblet de Muang Ngoi. Em vaig enamorar d'aquest lloc. Fantàstic. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Al costat d'un riu,
envoltat de muntanyes, el poblet és petit i les habitacions tenen vistes al
riu, els nens juguen al riu (amb mi) ,el menjar és bo, el relax és absolut. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">No vam fer cap trekking per la zona. No m'hagués mogut per anar enlloc!
Quin indret! M'hi hagués quedat 1 mes. M'encanta. Super recomanat!!!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">The german couple left and we went back to Luang Prabang where,
SURPRISE!!! Alex joined us. Alex is my Philippino friend living in San Francisco.
The 3 of us spent some quality time in Luang Prabang strolling in the beautiful
city and riverside. Wonderful company in a city full of magic, can I ask for
more?</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Els alemanys ens van deixar i nosaltres vam anar cap a Luang Prabang on,
SORPRESA!!! L'Alex venia a veure’ns! Per Alex, em refereixo el meu amic filipí
que viu a San Francisco amb el qual vaig viatjar dos mesos per Filipines. Els
tres vam anar de passeig pel riu, a visitar més temples, a provar menjar nou, a
fer cervesetes a davant del riu. Una meravella. Fantàstica companyia en una
ciutat màgica. Què més es pot demanar?</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">Doris had to stay in Luang Prabang because of the card and Alex and me
went south to Vang Vieng. A change of travel buddy not expected. Vang Vieng is
the famous party capital of Laos but the town has much more than this. Beautiful
landscapes, good scooter excursions, caves… we only did the party part! But the
bars are surrounded by amazing limestone mountains and the river. Here you go
tubing. You rent your tube, you go north by tuk-tuk and you stop at the bars to
drink some buckets of local rum or whisky. There’s ropes, swings, slides and drunk
people die in the river. The week before it was the turn of an Australian girl.
When you think your party is over, you take your tube and go downriver while
tipsy observing the beautiful landscape and wondering how life can be so
freaking good.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">La Doris es quedava a Luang Prabang i l'Alex m'acompanyava. Un canvi de
parella no planejat però així va sortir. Amb ell vam anar a Vang Vieng, la
capital de la festa a Laos. La gent es pensa que a Vang Vieng només hi ha festa
i estant equivocats. Els paisatges són fantàstics i hi ha un munt d'activitats
per fer als voltants. Nosaltres, només vam anar de festa! </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">A les dues de la
tarda llogàvem un flotador gegant per anar a fer tubing al riu. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Un tuk-tuk ens portaria uns quilòmetres riu amunt i allà hi han una
vintena de bars. Només n'hi ha 5 amb gent i la resta estan bastant buits. Però
la gent compra galledes petites plenes de cubates estranys per 2 o 3 euros. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">En un no res, el rom
local t'ha pujat al cap i la festa no s'atura.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Cada any moren desenes de persones. La setmana anterior va ser una
australiana que es va ofegar. La gent, massa borratxa, es tira a l'aigua i ja
no en surt. El darrer més n'hi va haver un cada setmana! Hi ha tirolines,
tobogans, plataformes, jocs, i molta beguda. Gent de tot el món s'aplega per
fer el boig a un riu que a la tarda s'accelera i s'ha d'anar amb compte. </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Quan has decidit que
no vols més festa, agafes al teu flotador, et tires al riu i tardes una hora a
tornar al poble mentre observes els paisatges i el cap et roda. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Però estàs viu! </span><span lang="FR" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: FR;">Van ser uns dies molt divertits.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">Vang Vien is also famous because at every single bar they have
television with the show Friends going all day long. People lay down in the
floors eating and drinking, sometimes sleeping but Friends is always there.
Recently, they added Family Guy on the equation just for a change. At night, a
big party takes place every night in the island across the main street. The
party never stops!</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A més, Vang Vieng és conegut per la serie Friends! A tots els bars i
restaurants hi tenen teles amb la serie. Jo ho havia sentit però em costava de
creure. És veritat! </span><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt;">Ara
comencen a posar Family Guy per variar una mica. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">L'ambient és molt xulo i per la nit s'organitza una festa impressionant.
Com havia dit abans, la capital de la festa a Laos.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">We ended our visit with the north of Laos in the capital, Ventiane. It’s
the most boring capital in South East Asia. Small, not very clean, nothing to
see or do, not many restaurants, nobody in the bowling alley… boring. You can
skip it. We are ready for the south!</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Acabaré amb el nord de Laos per la capital, la més avorrida del sud-est
asiàtic. Petita, bruta, avorrida... 4 carrers sense interès, el riu quasi no es
veu, pocs restaurants, poca vida, preus molt elevats... i la bolera estava
buida! Ja us dic, no val la pena. Tanmateix, una parella que vam trobar els va
encantar però va ser perquè un conductor local els va portar per indrets
amagats i llunyans de la capital. En fi, que si no hi aneu, no us perdreu res.</span></div>
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-14739645068648145462012-07-19T16:53:00.001+02:002012-07-19T16:53:24.657+02:00Templed out in Thailand<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">Traveling the world I realized I’m the only traveler
that has never been to Thailand! That’s a big mistake that I’m ready to fix. I
started in the huge capital of Bangkok with 12 millions people. It’s a nice
city but the heat is simply unbearable. My hostel? A flashpacker hostel near
Khao San Road with nice but expensive 22 bed dorms with aircon. </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Viatjant pel món m'he adonat d'una cosa ben curiosa: tothom
ha estat a Tailàndia menys jo! Ha arribat el moment de corregir aquest immens
error i he decidit començar per la capital. Bangkok és una ciutat enorme d’uns
12 milions d’habitants. El calor és insuportable però tenia la sort que el meu
hostal tenia aire condicionat. Es tracta de Nappark, un hostal de flashpackers
molt a prop del famós Khao San Road.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">In Bangkok I tried to do all the typical things
everybody does when they come to Bangkok. The beautiful and expensive Royal
Palace, the lying Buddha, the river… At night I went party in Khao San Road. It
was crazy! And before that I also went to a ping pong show where some ugly
women do strange things with their vaginas! They shoot balloons, play
basketball, draw and write, shoot bananas, take chains and other objects from
their vaginas… all very “interesting”. Well, you haven’t been to Bangkok if you
haven’t gone to a ping pong show. We came back to the center racing with our
tuk-tuks through the city. We won!</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A Bangkok vaig intentar fer les coses típiques de la
ciutat com anar de festa per Khao San Road, visitar el palau reial i anar a un
show de ping pong. El Palau Reial és tan
interessant com car i ple de gent. Més tard, de nit, amb un grup de gent
vam anar a un ping pong show on unes dones lletges com un pecat fan
"malabarismes" amb la seva vagina! Disparen fletxes contra uns
globus, encesten amb boles de ping pong dins d'un cubell, escriuen i pinten,
disparen plàtans, es treuen cintes i cadenes de l'interior... un show molt
peculiar. Qui no ha estat a un ping pong show, no ha estat a Bangkok! De
tornada a l'hostal vam fer carreres de tuk-tuks per la ciutat! Divertidíssim.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">But Bangkok is much more than ping pong shows and
party. You also have boat rides by the river, rooftop terraces, shopping,
massages, good cheap food… it’s a city with lots of attractions and you need
time to explore it. One thing to do is avoid the Lady Boys, these men,
transsexuals, that take your arm to try having some fun with you. Bad. In
Bangkok I had a lot of fun and I met a lot of nice people. Great days.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Però Bangkok és molt més que ping pong: passejos pel
riu, terrasses als gratacels, anar de compres, fer-se massatges, menjar bé i
barat... és una ciutat plena d’atraccions que no t’acabes amb una setmana. Una
de les tasques és evitar els Lady Boys, aquests homes, transsexuals, que volen
fer-te un home de debò. A Bangkok vaig conèixer a molta gent i m’ho vaig passar
molt bé. Van ser uns dies esplèndids.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">I had already decided that I would skip the south and
its beaches, the full moon party, the diving… My route would go to the north
heading to Laos. I would go to visit temples in Ayutthaya, Sukhotai, and Chiang
Mai. In each one I took bicycles to ride around and I had a lot of fun.
Beautiful but I ended templed out. The bad thing is the heat. A german guy died
of a sun stroke in Ayutthaya the day before I went riding.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Ja havia decidit que em saltaria les platges de
Tailàndia i em dirigiria cap al nord. Ayutthaya, Sukhotai, Chiang Mai... 3
ciutats on veuria prous temples com per no haver de veure'n mai més. Buf, tenia
els ulls en forma de temples. Que sí, que són macos, però n’hi ha masses.
Tanmateix, poder passejar amb bicicleta per allà, és una experiència divertida.
Lo dolent és la calor.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">I did some cooking classes in Chiang Mai. For the sake
of eating! I dislike cooking very much but I love eating and I thought that in
these classes you don’t really have to cook a lot. Well, it was more than
expected! I had to cut all my ingredients and do everything myself. It was
funny and had a great time. The food was amazing because I’m undoubtedly an
excellent chef. I did that with my friend Katja whom I met 2 month ago in
Borneo traveling solo.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">In Chiang Mai we also went to see some Thai boxing and
I have to say it was disappointing because it was more a show for tourists than
a real thing. A tourist trap. Finally I avoided doing any trek in the area because
I had heard that after the tourists are gone, the tribes dress again in their
jeans… I don’t criticize it but I don’t go see them.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A Chiang Mai també vaig anar a classes de cuina
tailandesa. Ho vaig fer amb la meva amiga Katja, alemanya, que havia conegut
prèviament a Borneo. Vaig ser genial. El menjar estava boníssim. El meu menjar era
millor que el dels altres! Només faltaria! La veritat és que va ser un dia molt
divertit. A Chiang Mai, a més, vam anar a veure boxa tailandesa però va ser
decepcionant ja que era més d’exhibició que de veritat... una farsa per a
turistes. I amb aquesta idea ja vaig evitar de fer cap trekking per la zona on
havia sentit que les tribus es disfressen pels turistes i després es tornen a
posar els texans. Sense comentaris.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">I had heard many things about Pai. The chill out
paradise, the hippie paradise. Bulshit. It’s just a small town filled with
drunk tourists. It’s a party town, a tourist trap. And the landscapes are
overrated. Ugly waterfalls, some nice views but nothing special. The good thing
is that it’s cheap. I spent 3 days with a Dutch friend going to the swimming
pool. That’s it. Disappointing. I really think that the people that come here
for 3 days and stay 3 months, they just do it because of the fame of the place.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Després vam anar a Pai. Pai, diuen, és el paradís dels
hippies i del chill out. M'havien parlat moltíssim de Pai, un poblet lluny de
tot on la gent ve a passar uns dies i s'hi acaba passant uns mesos. A mi em va
decepcionar i, per sort, vaig trobar gent amb la mateixa sensació. Si abans era
el paradís per relaxar-se, ara s'ha convertit en un paradís de la festa. La
gent ve aquí a beure i fer festa cada nit. La tranquil·litat s'ha esvaït. Fins
i tot en temporada baixa està ple de turistes borratxos disposats a quedar-se a
viure aquí. Avorrit!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt;">Pots
llogar una moto però els paisatges dels voltants estan sobrevalorats. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">No
són tan macos... els salts d’aigua no són res de l'altre món, ho vaig trobar
sobreexplotat. Europa és mil vegades més maco. Tanmateix, m’ho vaig passar bé
amb amics que vaig fer.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">My last stop in my way to Laos was Chiang Rai, a city
that many people skip but as always, I find my place where others dislike. The
city itself has nothing incredible. Just a nice vibe, a lively night market and
some nice expats. My favorite was a temple, the white temple. That’s a great
temple!!! It’s difficult to describe so judge yourself by the pictures… Outside
you can see Predator, skulls, beautiful shapes everywhere, and inside, the
paintings are weird, with Neo, Darth Vader, the twin towers in fire, Freddy
Kruger, Spiderman… Really interesting and without a doubt, the best temple I’ve
seen in all Thailand.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I per acabar, vaig anar a Chiang Rai. Molta gent s’ho
salta però aquí vaig veure un dels temples més interessants que he vist mai: el
temple blanc. Està construït per un arquitecte famós que ho ha convertit en la
seva casa i el seu museu. Podeu veure les fotos... molt estrany, formes
estridents, calaveres, en Predator, caps tallats... i a dins, els dibuixos són
amb en Batman, en Spiderman, en Neo, en Darth Vader, les torres bessones en
flames, en Freddy Kruger... i és un temple budhista! Tot molt interessant.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">I also went visiting the black house. Another private
house where you can see several buildings with dead animals, skulls, gardens,
strange shapes… also difficult to describe but very interesting. In Chiang Rai
I found different attractions, specials things that made me stay longer. Highly
recommended.</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">També vaig anar a veure la casa negra. Una altra
iniciativa privada que es pot visitar de forma gratuïta. Són varis edificis de
fusta amb jardins, esquelets d’animals, pells d’animals, cases, sales... no sé,
un lloc difícil de descriure però que s’ha d’explorar. A Chiang Rai m’hi vaig
quedar uns dies ja que vaig conèixer a uns expatriats francesos que em van
convidar a una barbacoa. Van ser uns dies genials!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="color: blue;">So Thailand is a great country where I didn’t party a
lot but had great time, met awesome people, ride beautiful landscapes, explored
old temple cities, learned cooking or did some resting. It’s a country with
lots of tourists but where the locals are still quite nice, the food is good
and cheap, the prices are low. A great destination to go on holidays. I loved
Thailand but next time I’ll go to the beaches!!!</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Així que Tailàndia per a mi ha sigut bastant sobri,
sense grans festes, sense platges, sense full moon party, però he de confessar
que m’ha agradat. Un país amb molts turistes però que malgrat això, la gent
continua sent amable. Malgrat el gran creixement del país, els preus es mantenen
baixos. Tailàndia és un país fantàstic amb molt de marge de millora. Només
sobren turistes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-25847312715432679262012-06-27T19:07:00.001+02:002012-06-27T19:09:24.465+02:00Somnolent Beaches and exciting Whale Sharks in the Visayas<br />
<span style="color: blue;">The Visayas are group of islands in the Philippines with lots of attractions. Mainly, white sand beaches with turquoise waters, good diving, party or relax, small villages or big towns... I still don't know if it was a mistake but we skipped all the main tourist spots like Boracay or Malapascua. Anyway, it's the perfect excuse to come back to the Philippines.</span><br />
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Les Visayas, a Filipines, és un grup d'illes grans i petites, amb molts atractius. Principalment, es tracta de platges de sorra blanca i aigua turquesa, excel·lent submarinisme, festa o relax segons es desitgi, poblets, grans ciutats... Nosaltres vam saltar-nos els llocs més turístics o almenys més populars entre els motxil·leros: Boracay i Malapascua. Encara avui no sé si va un error un encert, però així tinc la excusa perfecta per tornar a Filipines.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Within the big islands, Leyte is probably on of the least explored by foreign or local tourists. Maybe the beaches are not fantastic, maybe there's less attractions o maybe it's more difficult to get there. After a democratic voten we had to chose where we would go see the whale sharks. Usually, everybody goes to Donsol because there's lots of them, they are there every year, it's closer from Manila, and it's almost guaranteed to see them. The downside is that there's a lot of tourists. Obviously, the winning vote went for the other option: Pintuyan is the island of Leyte. Less tourists and further away from everything. The downside is that the whale sharks are not here every year and that even if they are around, it's more difficult to see them. We needed 2 days to get here, in Son-ok / Pintuyan, my favorite place in the Philippines.</span><br />
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A Visayas, del grup d'illes grans, Leyte és segurament una de les menys explorades. Potser les platges són menys maques, potser hi ha menys atraccions o potser és més difícil d'accedir-hi. La qüestió és que, en una acte democràtic, prèviament vam haver de votar on aniriem a veure els taurons bal·lena. Generalment, la gent va a Donsol on n'hi ha molts, hi són cada any, i està quasi garantitzat poder-los veure. El costat negatiu és que hi ha molts més turistes. Com a nosaltres en agrada l'aventura vam votar per Pintuyan, a Leyte. Pocs turistes i més remot. El costat negatiu és que no sempre venen a aquesta zona i no està garantitzat poder-los veure. Vam tardar dos dies a arribar aquí, a Son-ok, un barri de Pintuyan.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">There's no hostels in the village so we do homestay. We had an amazing family. The mothers and the kids were playing with us all day long. The food was great, the rooms cozy, the bathrooms clean. We spent fantastic days laughing, taking dozens of photos of all together doing faces and dancing terrible electronic music with the kids and the elders! Wow, hilarious.</span><br />
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No hi han hostals, així que de seguida ens van assignar una família amb la que podriem quedar-nos els dies que calguessin. Tothom qui ve aqui fa una homestay, és a dir que dorm a casa de famílies voluntaries que a canvi d'uns pocs diners, et donen un llit i menjar. Ens va tocar una família fantàstica! Vam jugar amb els nens i també amb les mares, el menjar era boníssim, les habitacions còmodes, els lavabos nets. Ens vam passar els dies rient, fent-nos fotos amb ells o ballant amb música electrònica horrorosa amb els nens i els avis! Divertidíssim.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">We came here to see the whale sharks and I have to confess that we were very lucky because we saw lots! We were so close that one of them touched me with its tail when it was speeding. They are huge and beautiful. To be next to them is an amazing experience. Wow. They are the world biggest fishes, up to 16 metres long. We were lucky enough to see two species of them, the white and the black ones. It was so good that we came back a second day.</span><br />
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Però nosaltres haviem vingut aquí a veure els taurons bal·lena. He de dir que vam tenir molta sort i en vam veure un munt. Estàvem tan a prop que els podiem tocar i tot (cosa que no s'ha de fer). Són animals gegantins, preciosos, àgils i tan fràgils. Són els peixos més grans del planeta i poden arribar a fer 16 metres. En vam veure de dues espècies, blancs i negres. Va ser una experiència única i vam repetir un segon dia.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Thanks to the landscapes, the whale sharks and mainly, the people, Leyte is one of my highlights in the Philippines. A small village with no tourists and where the locals are incredibly friendly. We loved it. We left from Son-ok on a bus rooftop that was speeding a lot. So much fun!</span><br />
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Així que per a nosaltres, Leyte va ser, gràcies a la gent, els paisatges i als tiki-tiki (així és com anomenen els taurons bal·lena en aquesta àrea), un altre highlight en aquest viatge. Un lloc sense turistes i on la gent és molt i molt amable. Ens va encantar. Vam deixar el Leyte viatjant al sostre d'un autobús que anava molt ràpid. Fantàstic.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">A ferry would take us to Anda, a village in Bohol island. There's not much to do but to roast under the sun and drink some rum. The beach is nice but the village has nothing special. One night we joined a local party where a rock band was playing old songs and the mayor couldn't stop smiling while dancing. We had a blast.</span><br />
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Un ferri ens portaria a Anda, a l'illa de Bohol, famosa per les sobrevalorades Chocolate Hills. Aquí hi ha poca cosa a fer a part de rostir-se al sol i beure rom. La platja és maca però el poble deixa a desitjar. Una nit vam gaudir d'una festa al poble on una banda tocava velles cançons roqueres i l'alcaldessa somreia mentre ballava com una boja. Vam comprar una botella de rom, una mica de coca cola, i ens vam unir a la festa. Ens ho vam passar de conya.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The next stop was Camiguin, a small island with 8 volcanoes! Mister Lonely Planet says it's the island with a highest density of volcanoes in the world. The sand is obviously black and we took some motorbikes to go around it. We saw waterfalls, villages, volcanoes and beaches. We also witnessed one of the attractions in the Philippines: the cock fighting. It takes place every Sunday at an arena where people bring their own cocks. They look at the different cocks to see which ones can fight together. That depends if the bets are more or less even. Then the fight starts, the blood drips, one wins, the other dies in the arena or in the kitchen. There could be around 20 fights during the evening. It's pretty interesting at the beginning but after a while it's boring. </span><br />
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Un altre ferri ens duria fins a Camiguin, una illa amb 8 volcans. Diuen que és l'illa amb més densitat de volcans del món La sorra és naturalment negra i allà vam aprofitar per llogar unes motos i donar la volta a l'illa. Vam veure salts d'aigua, poblets, volcans i platges. Allà també vam presenciar un dels entreteniments més famosos a Filipines: la lluita de galls. Va ser força interessant. Normalment, tenen lloc cada diumenge en una arena circular destinada únicament a aquesta finalitat. La gent porta els seus galls i al principi tothom estudia els animals dels altres i si hi ha alguna parella per la qual les apostes estan més o menys equilibrades, la lluita ja pot començar. Hi poden arribar a haver més de 20 combats i moltes vegades acaben amb la mort d'un dels galls. Sinó, acaba de tota manera a la cassola. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Sipalay in the island of Negros was our next stop. It's a beach at the end of the world. We traveled all day and all night to get there and I would say it was not worth it. Few people in a nice beach. The best was watching the sunsets and playing with the kids in the water. We did little more than sleeping, reading and eating.</span><br />
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D'allà vam anar a Sipalay, una platja a la fi del món. Vam passar tota la nit viatjant i quan vam arribar allà, no era el què ens esperàvem. Quasi no hi havia ningú i la platja era maca però no genial. La posta de sol i jugar amb els nens a l'aigua serien els millors moments del dia. Vam fer poca cosa a part de dormir, llegir i menjar.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">We would end up our Visayas tour in Siquijor, another small island. Laziness and timing brought us to a nice hotel, a resort with a beautiful beach, a nice swimming pool and many lost hours doing nothing. Well, not lost because we relaxed and chilled out during our last days in the Philippines, and that's never bad! We only left the hotel to eat because the restaurant was too expensive. One night we went to the local disco where we had a great night while drinking rum and dancing. Our barman until 2 AM was a 12 year old kid. Sweet!</span><br />
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La nostra darrera destinació a les Visayas seria l'illa de Siquijor. Al final vam acabar en un hotel amb piscina i amb poques ganes de fer res. La platja era maca. Sorra blanca, palmeres, i una aigua blavíssima. Només sortiem de l'hotel per menjar perquè a dins, el menjar era car. Una nit vam anar de festa a la disco local on el nostre barman, un nen de dotze anys, ens va estar portant copes fins a les 2 de la matinada. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Philipines has been amazing. Days of happiness, good friends, beutiful beaches, breathtaking landscapes and also some deserved relax. Two incredible months in a country yet to discover by the mass of tourists but that I'm sure that sooner than later it will be on the map. Don't miss it and go before that happens!</span><br />
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Dies de felicitat, envoltat de bons amics, platges maques, paisatges magnífics, però també un excés de relax que feia que ens costés aixercar-nos del llit. Dies somnolents on anàvem fent balanç dels nostres dies passats a Filipines. Han sigut dos mesos excepcionals començant a comptar des del primer dia. Filipines és un país extraordinari que encara no està a la ruta de turistes d'arreu del món. Us aconsello que hi aneu quan abans millor! <br />
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-46555173161187478042012-06-15T19:23:00.000+02:002012-06-15T19:23:42.114+02:00Rice terraces, spelunking and crucifixions in Luzon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: blue;">Please, use your imagination for a moment. You're in a small coastal town in the Philippines. A dusty street. It's very hot and a small kid with glasses and without T-shirt is running around with the new toy he just built with some ropes and plastic bottles. Suddenly it starts raining. Asian rain, lots of big drops. Unlike it would happen in the western world, kids come to play under the rain from everywhere. No T-shirts, no shoes, no problem. Our kid takes a natural shower under the water pouring from a roof. This kid is Alex, my travel buddy and friend.</span></div>
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<br />Utilitzeu la imaginació. Esteu a Filipines, en un poblet davant del mar. Un carrer sense asfaltar, la pols se us fica al ulls i fa calor, molta calor. Un nen local de 8 anys, amb ulleres, corre amunt i avall sense sabates amb la joguina que s'acaba de construir amb unes cordes i unes ampolles de plàstig. Sobtadament, comença a ploure. Un xàfec monumental. Però contrariàment al que passaria a Europa o a la resta del món occidental, el carrer s'omple de nens i nenes de totes les edats, sense samarreta, sense sabates. El nostre protagonista juga sota la pluja i aprofita per dutxar-se sota l'aigua que raja de les teulades. Aquest nen és l'Alex, el meu company de viatge.<br /> </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">As I told you the last time, Alex left from the Philippines to the USA to study. He found a good job and today he lives in San Francisco in a very similar life than ours. Actually, a much better life than any of us, but that's a different story. Today, Alex, Wilco (our Dutch friend) and me land in Manila. We sleep in a shithole in the red district, that is also the backpacker area. In the streets you can find cabarets, bars, restaurants, prostitutes and other entertaiment. Women with few clothes call us all the time from their clubs. Sadly, Philippines is a famous sexual tourist destination. You can see many white old men with young beautiful local women.</span><br /><br />Com us vaig dir la darrera vegada, l'Alex va marxar als Estats Units a estudiar. Va trobar una bona feina i ara viu a San Francisco portant una vida molt similar a la nostra. Bé, honestament, molt millor que la nostra però no cal desvetllar tots els detalls. Avui, l'Alex, en Wilco (el tercer mosqueter holandès, alt com un Sant Pau) i jo arribem a Manila, la capital. Dormim en un cutxitril en el barri de backpackers, que resulta ser el barri rosa, vermell... el red district vaja. On hi ha tots els cabarets, prostitutes i altres entreteniments de la vida. Dones mig despullades et criden pel carrer perquè entris al seu local. És força divertit. Desgraciadament, Filipines és una coneguda destinació de turisme sexual. Veus desenes d'homes blancs i vells, amb noies filipines guapes i joves . És mica trist. No t'hi acabes d'acostumar.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;"> I visit Manila while Alex visit his family and eats in good restaurants! That's unfair!!! The city is not great but still interesting inside the old walls where you can still find the street names written in Spanish, the cathedral, the colonial houses or nice restaurants.</span><br /><br />Visito Manila mentre l'Alex visita familia i menja en bons restaurants. Injusticia!!! La ciutat no és gaire maca però és interessant passejar per dins de la muralla on encara es poden veure els noms dels carrers escrits en castellà, la catedral, els edificis colonials o els petits restaurants a cada cantonada. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">A night bus takes us to Banaue, a town famous for its rice terraces UNESCO World Heritage. It's dry season but it's pouring rain non-stop all day long. We decide to trek anyway. We cannot wait until the rain stops, it may be next week. We start with Batad, Pula, Cambulo and Hapao. We don't need a guide. Alex will be our guide! You can eat dog here. The one in the photo was delicious!</span><br /><br />Un autobús nocturn ens porta a Banaue. Un poble conegut mundialment perquè les terraces d'arrós són Patrimoni de la Humanitat per la UNESCO. Estem en època seca però el temps està boig i no para de ploure. Al final decidim que no podem deixar que la pluja ens amargui el viatge així que decidim moure'ns de tota manera. Fem un treking de varis dies creuant Batad, Pula, Cambulo i acabem a Hapao. No agafem guia ja que l'Alex es pot comunicar amb els locals i volem estalviar els diners. Aquí pots menjar gos. El de la foto estava deliciós! <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">We walk every day for hours under the rain. It's exhausting to be soaked all day long. On the other hand, this is one of the best hikes I've done so far. The lanscapes are gorgeous. The rice terraces are so beautiful!!! The terraces and the irrigation sistem were built 2 thousand years ago and today they stand still! Impressive. The one in Batad is the longest and most breath-taking.</span><br /><br />Cada dia caminem sota la pluja incessant. He de confessar que és esgotador caminar durant hores quan estàs completament empapat. També he de reconèixer que és un dels millors trekings que he fet en el meu viatge. Els paisatge és espectacular. Les terraces d'arròs són fantàstiques!!! Juntament amb el sistema d'irrigació, van ser construides fa 2.000 anys i encara aguanten! Impressionant. La més llarga i impressionant, la de Batad. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Our guide is not good enough and we lose our way several times. But that's the charm! Sometimes we have to climb 3-4 metres high wall terraces with slippery rocks. Wilco fell down from one of them! He was lucky to be unharmed. We follow irrigation canals thinner than our feet trying not to lose our balance. In the villages, the accomodations are basic but the people nice and the food is good. I'm really in love with this region. It's an incredible experience that I will never forget thanks to the amazing company, losing the right path from time to time and being able to explore rice terraces where no tourists go. The pictures aren't a fair witness of what we lived.</span><br /><br />Ens perdem varies vegades, però res no ens para. En alguna occasió hem d'escalar per terraces sense camí, parets de 3 o 4 metres d'alçada, amb pedres on és fàcil relliscar i caure (en Wilco va caure per una de les parets!!!). Fem equilibris per canals d'irrigació que són més estrets que els nostres peus. Els hostals locals són bàsics però la gent maca i el menjar bo. De veritat, estic enamorat d'aquesta regió. És una experiència increïble que no oblidaré mai, segurament accentuada per la bona companyia i pel fet de perdre el camí tot sovint i explorar terraces on només els locals accedeixen per camins quasi impracticables. Les fotos no mostren la esplendor d'aquest indret màgic. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Sagada is our next stop. Another mountain village where our aim will be practicing some spelunking, dry our clothes and try to escape from the rain. We do the Cave Connection and the Crystal Connection. With both of them you enter a cave and you exit through a different one. We have an amazing time. We need 3 to 4 hours finish each connection. We climb walls with the help of ropes, we do rappeling, we walk long time through cave pools with very cold water, we crawl in small holes, we walk by bat poo, sharp rocks and 30 centimetres of mud. Fantastic! For me, the most scary thing is to climb a vertical wall with the help of a rope and the strengh of by back against another wall. My arms are on the point to weaken. There's no security but that what makes it also exciting. If you fall this wall, it's 4 metres on the way down, in this long and dark cave. Anyway, I loved it. We enjoy it a lot.</span><br /><br />Sagada és la nostra propera parada. Un poble en una altra regió muntanyosa on el nostre objectiu, a part d'escapar de la pluja i secar la nostra roba, és fer espeleologia. Fem la Cave Connection i la Crystal Cave, ambdues són conexions entre dues coves. Entres per una i surts per l'altra. Ens ho passem de conya. Tardes de 3 a 4 hores a fer cada una de les conexions. Puges per cordes, baixes fent rapel, travesses llacunes d'aigua congelada, t'endinses en forats on t'has d'arrossegar i no tens espai ni per girar-te, camines enmig de caca de rat-panat, per pedres punxegudes o fang fins els genolls. Una passada! Per a mi, el més complicat va ser pujar una paret amb l'ajuda d'una corda i fent força amb l'esquena recolzada a una paret. Quasi no m'aguantàven els braços. I tot sense arnés ni cap seguretat. Si caus o et rellisquen les mans, la caiguda és de 4 metres. Tanmateix, em va encantar. Vam gaudir com nens petits. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Here we also take advantage of going to some good restaurant, swiming in waterfalls, walking in small villages, traveling on local buses's roofs... it's a beutiful region with lots to do.</span><br /><br />Aquí aprofitem també per anar a algun bon restaurant, banys en cascades, passejades per pobles llunyans, viatjar al sostre dels autobusos locals... una regió molt maca que dóna per molt. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The next stop is Angeles. Why should I go to Sin City? Well, it's our base to go to the San Fernando crucifixions. Logical! hahaha. When the American soldiers left the country, they also left behind a huge city full of prostitues that still lives today. Fields Avenue is a street with bars, restaurants, cabarets with beds to spend the night... The girls have tiny shorts and bras ready to break. They call the people walking by the street to attract you to their club "Texas sir", "Blue Nile sir", or the more subtle ones say "come inside sir". No comments. Some grab your arm or try to grab your crotch. Some are ugly, some are beautiful. It's a special vibe interesting to see. It's also funny people sell viagra and cialis in the street. I don't need it, thank you!</span><br /><br />La següent parada és Angeles. Els qui heu estat allà us esteu preguntant "i què carai feies tu a Angeles", la ciutat del pecat! Quan els soldats americans van deixar l'illa, van deixar darrera seu una ciutat/prostíbul enorme a prop de la seva base. Fields Avenue és una carrer ple de bars, restaurants, cabarets, aquests darrers amb llits per passar la nit i tot. Les noies, portant uns shorts curtíssims i sostenidors a punt sortir disparats, atreuen l'atenció dels clients cridant els noms dels seus bars "Texas Sir", "Blue Nile Sir". D'altres van directe a la jugular cridant "come inside, sir!" Pels qui no entenen el doble sentit en anglès, no seré pas jo qui us el expliqui! Algunes t'agafen del braç o intenten tocar-te el paquet. Algunes són lletges i altres són guapíssimes. És un abient curiós que s'ha de veure. Pot resultar a ser divertit si podem oblidar que moltes d'elles no volen estar allà. Un altre fet divertit és que pel carrer et venen viagra o cialis. Com si jo els necessités!!! JA! <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">And from the Sin City we go to the Passion City, San Fernando. When Alex and me started planning this trip, one of the conditions was being able to see the famous crucifixions that take place in this city every year during Holy Week. Volunteers, fanatics get crucified every year with real 6 centimeters nails, hands and feet, like Jesus did. The people here want to celebrate it the same way it happened. Some have been doing it for years, some are new. I'm glad there's people "devout" enough to do this and allow me to be a witness. The more dramatic the better! We want blood!!!</span><br /><br />I de la ciutat del pecat passem a la ciutat de la passió religiosa, San Fernando. Angeles era la nostra base per desplaçar-nos a San Fernando i viure una de les experiències més boges i sense sentit que he viscut mai. Quan l'Alex i jo preparàvem aquest viatge, una de les exigències era poder presenciar les crucifixionsque tenen lloc en aquesta ciutat durant la Setmana Santa. Voluntaris, fervents religiosos, es crucifiquen any rere any, peus i mans, amb claus reals d'uns 6 centímetres de llarg, en creus de fusta per recordar la data en la qual Jesús va ser crucificat. Alguns porten fent-ho 10 anys, altres menys. Jo no sabia gaire sobre què passava a San Fernando aquests dies, només sabia que uns fanàtics religiosos tenien moltes ganes de fer-se veure. Per a mi genial! Segur que faré bones fotos! Com més claus es clavin i més dramàtic sigui millor per a l'espectacle! <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The crucifixions are not the only thing happening around. Hundreds of people walk barefoot for hours while auto-flagellating. In other words, they wip themselves. But if you do that the blood will stay inside your skin and coagulate there. You don't want this. What they do is to cut with a blade the backs of the volunteers so the blood will flow free. Sweet! You can see groups of people walking around with big wooden crosses and the flagellants behind. Impressive. If you're too close from the wip going from one way to the other, you'll be splashed with their own blood. My trousers are full of blood still today. This procession is followed by hundreds of people, women and children included smiling and having fun with the show.</span><br /><br />El què no sabia era que centenars de persones caminen descalces durant hores mentre es flagel·len continuament. És a dir, agafen un fuet i es fuetegen l'esquena, i ho fan fort! Però si feu això us feu una ferida a l'esquena i la sang no pot sortir, es coagula i vosaltres no voleu això. Per això, el què fan primer són talls a l'esquena amb navalles o ganivets, així la sang pot rajar lliurement. Tot molt maco de veure! hahaha. De tant en tant, paren, s'estiren al terra fent la senyal de la creu mentre els nens continuen fuetejant-los l'esquena. Es veuen grups de persones caminant arrosegant enormes creus de fusta, seguides per persones flagel·lant-se. Impressionant. I clar, com el fuet va d'un costat a l'altre, van esquitxant de sang a tothom qui està massa a prop. Tinc els pantalons plens de sang!!! I tot això envoltat de centenars de persones, dones i nens que riuen i ens fan signes amb les mans per sortir a la foto. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">We went to the tourism office and Alex charmed the girl there because we had free media passes to be as close as possible from the crucifixions. We would be next the journalist from the most famous newspapers from all around the world, including National Geographic or USA Today.</span><br /><br />Vam anar a l'oficina de turisme per demanar horaris i on tindrien lloc les crucifixions. No sé què li va fer l'Alex a aquella noia però ens va donar passes de premsa a tots 3!!! Estavem acreditats com a Bloggers. Més tard trobaríem USA today, National Geographic, Efe i desenes de periodistes independents de prestigiosos diaris de tot el món. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">In the morning we went to the Santa Lucia crucifixion. Everything is almost the same as 2012 years ago. Pons Pilat condemn Jesus to die crucified and the way to the cross starts: the Via Crucis. It's like being in the theatre, the romans hit Jesus and make him carry the cross, Maria and Maria Magdalena cry and try to help him, Jesus falls down 3 times, Simon helps him to carry the cross... they stop from time to time and play the whole scene helped by microphones. Someone crucify the volunteers with a hammer, huge nails to hands and feet. Incredible. Three people were crucified in the morning. </span><br /><br />Primer vam anar la crucifixió al barri de Santa Lucia. Tot comença com fa 2012 anys: hi ha un Via Crucis, on es representa el camí de Jesús des de que és condemnat per Pons Pilat fins que és crucificat a la creu. Així que de forma teatral, hi ha els soldats romans pegant al pobre Jesús, les dones (Maria, Maria Magdalena...) plorant al voltant, altres persones protestant i van representant el Via Crucis: Jesús cau 3 vegades, Simó ajuda a Jesús a portar la creu, una dóna l'ajuda, etc... van parant i van actuant, xerrant per micròfons. Els soldats van tirant el Jesús per terra, el colpegen amb els punys, els peus, fins que arriben a la creu on el desvesteixen, i allà, davant de tots, un tio amb un martell li clava els claus a les mans i als peus. Impressionant. Van crucificar a 3 persones. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">In the morning crucifixion we were almost alone. Few tourists, few journalists. The one in the afternoon would be very crowded, massive. This was the famous one, the first one, the one that would have more people crucified. The one in the morning was more intimate. They crucified the guys half metre from my camera!. The Via Crucis started again with different people. There was even a flagellant without legs doing the Via Crucis on his knees.</span><br /><br />Si a la crucificació del matí estem quasi sols, pocs periodistes, pocs locals, pocs turistes, la de la tarda és multitudinària. La crucificació de San Pedro és famosa per ser la primera, la bona, la popular, la que té més persones crucificades. A mi em va agradar més la del matí perquè era més íntim. Li van clavar els claus a menys de mig metre de la meva càmara!!! A la tarda hi havia centenars de periodistes i milers de persones. Va ser fins i tot difícil seguir el Via Crucis. Diferents actors, diferents romans, diferents cops de puny. Gent sense cames fent la Via Crucis i flagel·lantse, dues noies d'un programa de televisió holandesa portant la seva pròpia creu... <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">This time they crucified a dozen people. We left before they crucified some women, or so we were told. We had to catch a bus to Manila this same afternoon. It was a mind-blowing experience. Surrealist. Difficult to believe. I don't need to tell my opinion about their mental state but I'm glad there's people sick enough to do this things and me being able to witness it with my own eyes. The show is spectacular!</span><br /><br />Aquesta vegada van crucificar a una dotzena de persones. Quan vam marxar ens deien que ens quedéssim perquè crucificarien a dones!!! Al final no vam poder esperar i vam marxar cap a Manila. Va ser una experiència única. Molt surrealista. Sembla que no pugui ser. M'estalviaré la meva opinió sobre l'estat mental d'aquestes persones, però m'alegra que hi hagi gent prou malalta per fer aquestes coses i jo pugui estar allà per veure-ho amb els meus propis ulls. Tot un espectacle. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">We had a funny night in Manila with some cheap beer San Miguel, Spanish friends, prostitues that were so drunk that would start crying, Alex dancing in a bar with Gema when everybody was sitting having a drink, lots of laughs... I love the Philippines so much! These 2 weeks in Luzon were amazing. A highlight after the other!</span><br /><br />A Manila vam tenir una nit estranya però divertídissima envoltats de cervesa barata San Miguel, amigues espanyoles que haviem fet durant el viatge, prostitues que ploràven de borratxes que estàven, l'Alex ballant sol en el bar (bé, amb la Gema), farts de riure, ... m'encanta Filipines! Dues setmanes per recordar a la illa de Luzon. Un highlight rere l'altre. Fantàstic. <br />
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-24839493228287954492012-05-31T03:51:00.000+02:002012-06-14T17:04:08.982+02:00The natural paradise of Palawan<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="color: blue;">I'd been preparing my visit to the Philippines for months with long emails to and from Alex. Alex is a guy I met in my Antarctica cruise last year while travelling in South America. He was born in the Philippines, in Mindanao, but went to study in the USA when he was 19. Now he lives in San Francisco and decided he would show me his country! Thank you buddy! Alex is very clever but didn't recognized the Beach Boys, Yoko Ono or Sir Anthony Hopkins when he met them someday during his busy life. OMG!!!</span></div>
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Feia mesos que preparava la meva visita a Filipines amb llargs emails intercanviats amb l'Alex. L'Alex és un noi que vaig conèixer al meu creuer a Antàrctica l'any passat quan visitava Amèrica del Sud. Ell va néixer a Filipines i als 19 anys va marxar a estudiar als Estats Units. Ara viu a San Francisco i va decidir que m'acompanyaria en aquesta aventura i m'ensenyaria el seu país. Jo encantat. L'Alex és un crac però ha estat xerrant amb els Beach Boys, la Yoko Ono i en Anthony Hopkins sense adonar-se que eren ells fins més tard. Quin paio!!!<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">I arrived at Manila airport very early in the morning a Sunday morning where I had to meet Alex to catch another plane. I failed finding him but I saw an interesting mass taking place next to the check-in counters. A surprising welcome to the Philippines in one of the few countries in Asia that are mainly catholic (with East Timor). The Spanish colonized the Philippines in the 16th century and changed the religion that was previously Islam. There's still some muslims in the south of the country. Spain sold the Philippines and Puerto Rico to the Americans and today the population speak a good English. The funny thing is that when the locals speak to each other, out of 10 words they speak 2 in English, 1 in Spanish and the rest in the local language.</span><br />
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Arribo a l'aeroport de Manila ben d'hora una matí de diumenge on m'he de trobar amb l'Alex. No el trobo però una missa multitudinària al costat del taulells de facturació em donen la primera idea del què em trobaré en aquest país. Filipines és un dels pocs països majoritàriament catòlics d'Àsia (juntament amb Timor Leste) degut a la colonització espanyola a principis del segle 16. Abans d'això éren musulmans. Encara en queden però pocs i donen molta guerra al sud del país. Espanya va vendre Filipines als americans (juntament amb Puerto Rico) i ara la població parla anglès de forma molt correcta. Ah, i quan els locals parlen entre ells, de 10 paraules n'utilitzen dues en anglès, una en castellà i la resta en el seu idioma local. Molt divertit!<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Another interesting fact is that in the Philippines they don't know who is Messi o Ronaldo. It's the only country in all Asia that doesn't know anything about football! On the other hand, they know Kobe Brian and Lebron James. They love basketball! There's basketball fields at every single village. The other national sport would be singing. They love karaoke. Every house, restaurant and hostel has a karaoke machine, or a videoke as they call it when there's also video. What surprised me was that they love singing 80's rock songs from bands like Bon Jovi, Europe, White Lion, Journey, Foreigner, Survivor... Great, I feel like home!</span><br />
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Altres peculiaritats són que a Filipines no tenen ni idea de qui és Messi o Ronaldo o com es juga a futbol. Segurament, és la excepció a tot Àsia. Tanmateix, conèixen a Kobe Brian o a Pau Gasol. Estan bojos pel bàsquet. Veus pistes de bàsquet a cada poblet per petit que sigui. L'altre esport nacional és la cançó. Els encanta el karaoke!!! Cada casa, bar i hostal té una màquina de karaoke on canten de tot, però em va sorprendre com els agraden grups de rock del 80 com Bon Jovi, Europe, White Lion, Foreigner, Journey, Survivor... una passada!<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">To finish with my Philippines introduction I'll say that it's an archipelago of 7.107 islands. Manila, the capital, was bombed by the Japanese during the WWII. More people died there than in Hiroshima when the bomb was dropped. It was one of the most beautiful cities in Asia but was completely destroyed. Today, Manila doesn't have many attractions for tourists.</span><br />
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Per acabar amb la introdució de Filipines, diré que es tracta d'un arxipèl·leg de 7.107 illes i que durant la segona guerra mundial, Manila va ser bombardejada pels japonesos. Va morir més gent que a Hiroshima, unes 100.000 persones. Es tractava d'una de les ciutats més maques d'Àsia i va ser destruida completament. Avui, la ciutat de Manila, no és una ciutat que tingui gaires atraccions pels turistes. <br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Alex and me finally met at the stairs of the plane that would bring us to Coron town. We were the last on board but we immediately started talking about our trip. The view of the first islands on our way to Palawan were incredible! Blue water and white sand beaches. Once in Coron, Wilco joined us. He is the Dutch guy I met in Sulawesi (Indonesia) and we travelled together for about 2 weeks. The 3 of us were starting an amazing adventure through the Philippines for the following 2 months.</span><br />
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Finalment, l'Alex i jo ens trobem a peus de l'avió que ens durà a Coron town i comencem a planejar els nostres propers dies. Les vistes des de l'aire de les primeres illes camí de Palawan són fantàstiques: aigua blava critalina i illes de sorra blanca. A Coron se'ns uneix en Wilco, el meu amic holandès amb el qual vaig viatjar per Sulawesi. Un bon noi que em passa dos palms! Els tres estàvem a punt de començar una de les aventures més increïbles que viuria per Àsia durant dos mesos.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Wilco, Alex and me rented a motorbike with the new company of Maya, or Princess Maya. A sweet young Dutch girl that we met at the hostel. We rode through rough roads to explore the countryside around Coron. The landscapes and villages were very interesting. We also did some diving. Coron is world famous for it's wreck ships. Japanese ships sunk by the Americans. Some war ships, cargo ships... you can still see the weaponry, toilets, machinery. You can go inside the ships where is completely dark and try to follow your buddy with the help of a torch. An incredible experience! The last diving was also very nice but in a lake. At 13 metres, the temperature of the water changes going from very cold to very warm! Sweet!</span></div>
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Amb ells dos i la Maya, o princess Maya com m'agrada anomenar-la, lloguem una moto per explorar l'àrea. Les carreteres són horroroses però els paisatges i els poblets que travessem, molt interessants. També fem submarinisme. Coron és famós mundialment pels vaixells japonesos enfonsats bombardejats pels americans. Vaixells de guerra, de carga... encara veus els canons, les bales, entres a dins on és completament fosc i intentes seguir els teus companys gracies a una lot. Una experiència increïble! La darrera immersió va ser molt divertida, en un llac! A 13 metres de profunditat, l'aigua passa de freda a molt calenta!!! hehehe<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">I also discovered that Palawan is very nice but it's not what Mr. Lonely Planet had said. Maybe it was off the beaten track 5 years ago but not anymore. Many tourists everywhere. Sometime too many.</span></div>
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El senyor Lonely Planet diu que Palawan és la darrera frontera, off the beaten track, poc turístic i terra a descobrir. Bé, segurament això era cert fa 5 anys però avui Palawan reb molts turistes. No diré que està massificat però ens va costar trobar hostal en algún indret.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">From Coron we took a boat of Tao Philippines during 5 days and 10 more passengers on our way to El Nido, a town in the main island of Palawan. We wanted to explore the deserted islands with dreamy beaches that exist in this area. The experience was fantastic. We slept in fishing villages, the food was amazing and the company very nice. We played with the kids, we swam in real paradise, we bought fish and seafood from the fishermen. At night we drank Tanduay rhum (the local rhum) with coke. The bottle of 0,75 L costs 1 euro and a half. The beers are half euro. So cheap!!! One night we sang in the village's karaoke for 5 hours until we thought that the rest of the village had the right to sleep. It was a great night and thanks to the rhum, the ones that didn't dare to grab the microphone during the fist two hours, wouldn't let it go for the last two. Alex was one of them. I'm still thinking if I should censure the pictures...</span></div>
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Des de Coron vam contractar un barco de Tao Philippines que ens creuaria fins a El Nido amb unes 10 persones més, durant 5 dies. La idea era explorar totes aquestes illes desertes amb platges de somni. La experiència va ser magnífica. Vam dormir en poblets de pescadors, el menjar era exquisit i la companyia molt maca. Vam fer bons amics, vam jugar amb els nens, vam banyar-nos en el paradís, vam comprar peix, gambes, raya, crancs... Per les nits beviem rom filipí Tanduay amb coca cola, on l'ampolla de rom de 0,75 L val 1 euro i mig. Les ampolles de cervesa valen mig euro! Súper barat!!! Una nit, en una illa vam estar bevent i cantant en el karaoke durant 5 hores!!! Eren les dues de la matinada quan vam decidir que la resta del poble tindria dret a dormir! hahahaha. Va ser una nit divertidíissima. Els qui durant les primeres hores no gosàven ni acostar-se al micròfon, durant les dues últimes no volíen deixar-lo. L'Alex era un d'ells. Gràcies al Tanduay! Les fotos estan censurades... o no.<br />
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Per cert, aquí la cervesa és San Miguel, que per a sorpresa de molts no és d'origen espanyola sinó filipina!!! Va néixer a les Filipines i d'allà va creuar fins a Espanya. Avui són dues empreses separades. Gràcies wikipedia!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">El Nido has amazing landscape. The beaches, the mountains, the islands... some TV programs and movies have been recorded on those islands. Here we swam, we strolled, we rented motorbikes, we went party, we played with the local kids, we did some island hopping and discovered the secret beaches around. Some amazing days where we met sweet Carrie to whom I was singing all day long the famous song from Euope.</span></div>
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A El Nido, els paisatges són magnífics. Les platges, les muntanyes, les illes... en algunes de les illes s'han filmat alguns programes on posen a tot de gent junta i els van eliminant un per un. També s'han gravat algunes pel·lícules conegudes. Aquí vam passejar, vam anar de festa, vam llogar unes motos, ens vam banyar i jugar amb els nens locals, vam fer un tour en barca per les illes i platges secretes dels voltants. Uns dies genials on vam conèixer a la pobre Carrie i qui jo li cantava durant tot el dia la famosa cançó de Europe, que aquí a Filipines és una de les estrelles del Karaoke.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The underground river is one of the new natural world wonders but in my unworthy opinion I'd say it doesn't deserve to be in it. In those internet votations the countries with a big population always win and there's 100 milion people in the Philippines voting for the river. Everybody we met told us it was a big disappointment but we where there and wanted to see it! Our expectations were so low that we even enjoyed it! It's not an incredible thing to see but it's interesting. </span><br />
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El riu subterrani de Sabang és a la llista de les 7 meravelles naturals del món... de forma injusta, segons la meva opinió que no té cap valor. En aquestes votacions sempre guanyen els països amb més població, i Filipines té 100 milions de persones que van votar pel riu. Tothom ens havia dit que era una gran decepció. Però bé, allà estàvem i s'havia de veure, no? Les nostres expectatives eren tan baixes que al final em va agradar i tot. No és cap meravella però és interessant de veure.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">We went to Puerto Princesa only to extend our visa and left to a fisherman village called Tigman. All the hostels were definitely closed because the lack of tourists in the area. Luckily, one of them allowed us to stay for a cheap price even if the rooms were almost falling down and there was no restaurant in the whole village. We had to buy food, beer and rhum for 3 days. We didn't do anything but swimming, watching movies, reading and cooking. Well, I don't like to cook so I did the washing up and brought cold beers went requested.</span><br />
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A part de Puerto Princesa, on vam extendre els nostres visats, vam anar a un petit poble anomenat Tigman on tots els hostals de la guia havien tancat. Per sort, vam poder quedar-nos en un d'ell quasi sense pagar res, ja que no tenen els serveis en funcionament i com no es manté, s'està caient a troços. Vam estar 3 dies sense fer res. Descansant o banyant-nos, passejant pel poble o cuinant. Vam haver de comprar menjar, cerveses i rom, és clar, i cada dia haviem de cuinar. Bé, com ja sabeu, a mi no m'agrada cuinar, així que l'Alex i en Wilco ho feien per mi. Jo col·laborava quan necessitaven un mà, volien una cervesa freda i també netejava els plats.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">So Palawan was great and we had an amazing experience. The 3 of us took time to know each other better and had a lot of fun. I would say that threre's more tourists than I expected. Local and foreigners. Most people don't know it but the Philipines is getting richer day by day and it has a middle and high class that wants to travel and discover the country wonders. It was a good surprise! It's an unknown country for the majority but would surprise many. It's a country with amazing landscapes, good prices, correct transportation, modern cities... As the Philippino tourist board says, it's more fun in the Philippines!</span><br />
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Resum, Palawan va ser una experiència molt bona. 3 amics junts passant-ho molt bé i coneixent-se una mica més. Si li vull trobar una pega seria que hi han masses turistes, locals i estrangers. Encara que no ens ho sembli, Filipines és cada dia més ric i hi ha una classe mitjana i alta que té diners i vol fer turisme interior. No he estat en gaires països amb un percentage tan gran de turistes locals. M'ha sorprès gratament. Filipines és un país desconegut per a la majoria però que sorprendria a tothom. Un país amb atraccions naturals fantastiques, preus assequibles, transport correcte, ciutats on pots trobar de tot,... com diu la seva propaganda turística, It's more fun in the Philippines! <br />
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-82786107725311889742012-05-14T09:33:00.002+02:002012-05-21T15:46:49.424+02:00Sarawak i Kuala Lumpur<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Primer de tot volia comentar-vos una cosa sobre la meva amiga Lisa. </div>
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http://mainocaminaresol.blogspot.com/2010/07/un-trist-comiat-un-petit-homenatge.html </div>
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La Lisa, canadenca de Vancouver, amb la qual vaig viatjar 5 mesos per Àfrica i vaig viure experiències impressionants que encara avui no em puc creure, està a punt de treure el seu disc al mercat. Mentre viatjàvem, escoltàvem el disc dia i nit. M'encanta. Té una veu fantàstica. Escriu totes les cançons, i n'és la guitarrista rítmica i cantant. Us dic això perquè podeu escoltar dues de les seves cançons a la pàgina web del seu grup Joyce Island. http://www.joyceisland.ca/</div>
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Sarawak and Kuala Lumpur</div>
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First of all I wanted to say some words about my friend Lisa. </div>
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http://mainocaminaresol.blogspot.com/2010/07/un-trist-comiat-un-petit-homenatge.html</div>
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She's from Vancouver, Canada, and I travelled with her around 5 months through Africa. Lisa and I lived incredible experiences that still today I cannot believe they really happened. She is a musician and she is going to release her record soon. While we were travelling we used to listen to it day and night. I love it. She is the leader of her own band, the song writer and rithmic guitar player. You can now listen to a couple of songs at her band's website. http://www.joyceisland.ca/</div>
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La Katja, en Carlos i jo entràvem a Sarawak, la part oest de Borneo pel costat de Malàsia, un matí amb mooolta son. A la ciutat de Miri hi vam passejar uns dies i vam conèixer a molta gent. Poca cosa a fer mentre esperàvem el nostre vol que ens portaria al parc nacional de Mulu, al mig de la selva de Borneo. Allà volíem veure algunes de les coves més grans del món. Una d'elles té una cambra on hi cabrien 40 boeing 747, quasi res.</div>
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Katja, Carlos and me were entering in Sarawak, the west part of Borneo island owned by Malaysia. In the city of Miri we had fun and met people while waiting for our plane to the Mulu caves, some of the biggest in the world. One of the chambers could accommodate 40 boeings 747.</div>
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Vam passar 3 dies al parc i les coves van ser realment impressionants. En vam veure 4, les principals. La més famosa n'és una en la qual, cada tarda, hi surten uns 3 milions de ratpanats que volen per la selva per anar a buscar menjar. No paren de sortir durant una hora i mitja. Tot un espectacle.</div>
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We spent 3 days at the park and the caves were really impressive. We saw the main 4 caves including the famous Deer cave were 3 million bats leave every night to go hunting insects in the jungle. What a show!</div>
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D'allà em vaig saltar la resta de Sarawak per anar a Kuching, la ciutat més maca de Borneo. Bé, això no vol dir que sigui molt maca però sí és la més maca de tota l'illa. Aquests dies estava mandrós, amb poques ganes de fer res i em vaig quedar passejant per la ciutat i fent el tafaner sense fer cap excursió. Hi ha molts llocs a anar pel voltant. Doncs no vaig anar enlloc. Bé, aquí em vaig trobar per tercera vegada en Carlos, el madrileny, amb el qual vam fer unes birres al seu hostal mentre parlàvem de futbol.</div>
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From there I split with Katja and skipped the rest of Sarawak until I reached Kuching. This is the nicest city in Borneo but it doesn't mean it's very nice but that it's nicer than the others. Those days I was lazy and didn't do much. Only strolling around, smoking shisha, eating hummus and ice cream. It was days for relax. I skipped the national parks around the city... I was so lazy!!! And here I met my friend Carlos for the third time in Borneo so we went to have some beers at his hostel while talking about football. Sweet!</div>
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El què és interessant de la regió és visitar les Longhouse però jo ja ho havia fet a Kalimantan així que m'ho vaig saltar. A més, en Carlos em va explicar que li havien demanat 100 euros per poder dormir en una! Estan bojos... quina manera de fer el ridícul. Jo havia pagat uns 6 euros. </div>
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In this area many people go to visit the longhouses but I had already did it in Kalimantan so I also skipped it. Moreover, Carlos told me that he was asked 100 euros for 1 night! They are crazy! Ridiculous. I paid 6 euros...</div>
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La qüestió és que estava cansat de Malàisia així que em vaig dirigir directament a Kuala Lumpur abans d'agafar un vol cap a Filipines. A KL m'havia de trobar amb l'Elaine, una noia irlandesa que havia conegut prèviament a Mabul (Sabah). Amb ella avaig passar dos dies coneixent la ciutat. Em va agradar però no és una ciutat a la qual hi passaries molt de temps. No té gaire cosa a veure.</div>
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I was tired of Malaysia and I headed straight to Kuala Lumpur before flying to the Philippines. In KL I met Elaine, the Irish girl I had previously met in Mabul, Sabah. We visited the city for a couple of days. Kl is a nice city but there's only things to visit for 2 days.</div>
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L'hostal molt xulo. És un hostal de luxe per a motxileros. Val el doble que els altres però té bar a la teulada, cinema, i unes habitacions al·lucinants. Els dormitoris compartits són cabines individuals com podeu veure a la foto! Una passada.</div>
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The hostel was great, Reaggea Mansion, with a rooftop bar, a cinema and huge individual cabins as a shared dormitory (see foto). A flashpacker hostel convenient for a few days. Cool.</div>
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El highlight per a mi són sens dubte les torres Petronas. Són realment impressionants. Una passada. I de nit encara més. I encara avui no m'ho crec però passejant per la base de les torres em vaig trobar amb un vell conegut, en Harry. En Harry és un francès que viu a Nova York i que vaig conèixer fa un any a Veneçuela! Quina coincidència de retrobar-lo un any després en un continent diferent! És la tercera vegada que em passa en aquest viatge. Fantàstic.</div>
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My city highlight was of course the Petronas Towers. They are really impressive, huge, nice. At night they are even nicer. I can't believe that walking around the area with Elaine, I met Harry. Harry is a French guy living in New York and travelling for a while that I met previously in Venezuela!!! How incredible is that? It's the third time that I meet someone by chance in 2 different continents! Fantastic.</div>
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Ens vam fer cridar l'atenció unes 5 vegades pels policies que patrullen per la base de les torres. Són uns imbècils, aixi de clar. No pots trepitjar la gespa, no pots columpiar-te, no pots posar els peus aquí... ni allà, no pots ni respirar. N'hauria escanyat a més d'un. Ridícul. Sort que estar passejant per sota les torres fa oblidar les coses dolentes.<br />
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We were told off around 5 times by the local police under the towers. They are so stupid! You cannot do anything, step on the grass, use the swings, step on this side or the other, breathe... Arggg! Luckily the view of the towers make you forget about the bad things.</div>
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Vaig quedar amb en Harry l'endemà per passejar per altres zones de la ciutat tot parlant de vells temps a Veneçuela amb la Beth. Era divendres i vam poder veure com la gent resava al mig del carrer o a la parada de metro perquè la mesquita es quedava petita (veure foto). Quan en Harry se'n va anar vaig anar a visitar les Batu caves, unes coves a les afores de la ciutat que són força interessants. Han posat temples hinduístes a dins, a fora, pels costats, a sobre, a sota... val la pena anar-hi.</div>
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Elaine gone, Harry and I met to stroll in other areas of the city while remembering old times in Venezuela with Beth. It was Friday and we saw the people praying in the street of railway station because the mosque was to small (foto). When harry left I visited the the Batu caves that are very interesting. There's hinduist temples everywhere. Ouside the caves, inside the caves, on the caves, under the caves... worth visiting.</div>
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Lamentablement, no veuré res més de Malàisia. La primera raó és que me'n vaig a Filipines i la segona és que molta gent m'ha dit que Malàisia és molt avorrit. Ja ho havia comprovat pel meu compte així que és hora de marxar. La propera vegada que vingui ja aniré a Perhentians, una illa que m'encantaria visitar al nord-est. En resum, Malàisia ha estat bé, però no ha sigut increïble. Ha estat normalet en comparació amb la resta d'Àsia però m'ha anat bé per tornar a la civilització, bones carreteres, bon menjar, bon anglès... necessitava un canvi. Segurament un dia tornaré a fer la part que no he vist però si me la perdo, no em privarà el son. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Sadly, I won't stay longer in Malaysia. The first reason is that I have a flight to the Philippines and the second is that I've been told that what I have left here, is boring. People tell me "oh, you have to go to Penang" and I ask "what's to see there?". They only answer "great food!". Ok, well, I get it. I'm leaving! Next time I'll visit the Perhentians, an island I wanted to visit in the north east. So Malaysia was nice but not incredible in comparison with the rest of Asia. I was happy to come back to the modern world, good food, good English speaking, good roads... I needed a change and I got it. It's time to rough traveling again. Maybe one day I'll come back to see the rest.</span><br />
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A més, m'ho he passat bé a Malàisia. He conegut a molta gent, he fet algunes coses interessants i també he descansat. El viatge continua i la meva propera parada són les Filipines! Quina il·lusió!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Furthermore, Malaysia has been fun. I met lots of people, did some great stuff and I could rest. The trip continues in the Philippines! Fantastic!!!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxuM9N3s6B9LFx6qte8xJP5FccMNh2WMWqVhc5khWukAm_ot_KyTD35_bTkfJ6JTio3OT9wvBjocmRfJ4v76TUxp03OMx18DiB8R-kEoE3kGdy94spWRa3MmnfzT-1uG1k2pSEvJQC9n6/s1600/Malasia+%2528143%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxuM9N3s6B9LFx6qte8xJP5FccMNh2WMWqVhc5khWukAm_ot_KyTD35_bTkfJ6JTio3OT9wvBjocmRfJ4v76TUxp03OMx18DiB8R-kEoE3kGdy94spWRa3MmnfzT-1uG1k2pSEvJQC9n6/s400/Malasia+%2528143%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-23825516052916467012012-05-06T11:52:00.002+02:002012-05-21T16:17:27.242+02:00Itinerari d'una volta al món actualitzat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzpRpBeibkwreyR8LrmRGe7OPtetciWDlhRz9HSzamLSIyUmbq91IkRL_hsVM6CVySSEg7_BQzwrbWMh_Z7VXC3Ilq8EYH7FnpcldpAuHo_fAGZ8qKzPSZV8EyNEVWrB4N2Q_Z8QBybfG/s1600/Mo%25C3%25A7ambic+%2528187%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="color: black; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">M'agrada seguir les estadístiques del blog: quanta gent el llegeix, de quins països són, quines entrades atrauen més a la gent. Curiosament, m'he adonat que l'entrada més llegida, amb molta diferència i que sempre està al top 5 setmanal, és l'itinerari de la meva volta el món que vaig escriure abans de marxar on describia de forma molt inconcreta el meu itinerari </a></div>
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( http://mainocaminaresol.blogspot.com/2009/03/itinerari-de-una-volta-al-mon.html ). </div>
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Des de llavors he canviat els meus plans centenars de vegades per descobrir que tenir plans quan es viatja és dolent.</div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkzpRpBeibkwreyR8LrmRGe7OPtetciWDlhRz9HSzamLSIyUmbq91IkRL_hsVM6CVySSEg7_BQzwrbWMh_Z7VXC3Ilq8EYH7FnpcldpAuHo_fAGZ8qKzPSZV8EyNEVWrB4N2Q_Z8QBybfG/s1600/Mo%25C3%25A7ambic+%2528187%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><span style="color: blue;">Updated itineray of my around the world trip</span><br /><br style="color: blue;" /><span style="color: blue;">I like to follow my blog's data: how many people read it, from where are they from, which posts are more read. Curiously enough, I realized that the post that has attracted more people is my first itineray of this trip.</span></a><br />
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http://mainocaminaresol.blogspot.com/2009/03/itinerari-de-una-volta-al-mon.html </div>
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<span style="color: blue;"> It's always in the weekly top 5. In there I describe what are my plans and the countries I'd like to visit. Since then I have changed plans hundreds of times until I ended learning that plans are bad when travelling.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: black;">Pel que fa a la durada, al final seran 2 anys i quasi 10 mesos. 1017 dies si no m'equivoco. Torno (el 9 de juliol del 2012) perquè vull però també perquè el meu compte corrent està quasi buit. Els diners m'han durat menys del que jo pensava però és que també he fet algunes coses que són cares, com per exemple un munt de safaris, un munt de buceig, els goril·les, les illes galàpagos, Antàrctica, ... Si no hagués fet tot això, encara podria viatjar un any més. Malgrat això, no m'arrepenteixo de res del què he fet. Ha sigut fantàstic.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Regarding the length, at the end it will be 2 years and almost 10 months. 1017 days if I'm not wrong. I come back (9th July 2012) because I want but alse because I have no more money left. The money lasted less than expected but I did some expensive things, for example a lot of safaris and diving, the gorila trek, Galapagos or Antarctica. If I hadn't done all this I could travel for 1 more year minimum but it would be a different experience so I don't regret anything. It's been incredible.</span><br />
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<span style="color: black;">Pel què fa al recorregut, la base és mateixa però els països han canviat una mica.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Regarding the route, the basics from 2009 are the same but the countries are sometimes different.</span><br />
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<u><span style="color: black;">Africa:</span></u><br />
<span style="color: black;">Aquí tenia planejat fer només Àfrica Austral i al final hi he afegit l'est d'Àfrica. Enlloc de 4 mesos com tenia previst, hi he estat 13. El meu continent preferit.</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">I had only planned the south of the continent but at the end I extended it to the East. Instead of 4 months it's been 13. My favorite continent by far.</span><br />
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South Africa</div>
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Lesotho</div>
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Swaziland</div>
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Mozambic</div>
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Malawi</div>
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Tanzania</div>
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Kenya</div>
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Uganda</div>
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Democratic Republic of Congo</div>
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Rwanda</div>
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Zambia</div>
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Zimbabwe</div>
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Botswana</div>
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Namibia</div>
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<u>South America:</u><br />
Aquí al final els he fet tots amb la excepció de les guianes. Més dels que tenia previst. Al final han sigut 11 mesos al continent.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">I've been to all of them but the Guyanas. More than expected. At the end it's been 9 months in the continent.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Argentina</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Antarctica</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Uruguay</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Chile + Easter Island</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Bolivia</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Peru</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Ecuador + Galapagos islands</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Colombia</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Venezuela</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Brazil</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Paraguay</span><br />
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<u>Oceania:</u><br />
Aquí és on he hagut de reduir considerablement el meu viatge, sobretot perquè és caríssim. M'he saltat Austràlia, les illes del Pacífic i Nova Zelanda. Al final només he fet una parada de 4 dies entre continents a <span style="color: blue;">Auckland, a Nova Zelanda, per tant hauré de tornar.</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">It's in this continent that I had to skip many countries like Australia, the Pacific islands and a correct visit to New Zealand. I could only stay 4 days in NZ so I'll have to come back.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">New Zealand</span><br />
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<u>Asia:</u><br />
Aquí també he fet més temps del previst. En total 9 mesos i he fet tots els països del Sudest Asiàtic amb la excepció de Myanmar i Vietnam que ja vaig visitar el 2001 i el 2003 respectivament. Afegeixo els dos països que visitaré en els propers mesos que són Laos i Cambodja.<br />
<span style="color: blue;">In Asia I also spend more time than expected. 9 months in total and I've been to all the countries in South East Asia but Myanmar and Vietnam (where I was previously). I also add to this list the 2 countries I'll be visiting in the next 2 months (Laos and Cambodia)</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&num=200&start=193&t=m&ll=5.441022,112.060547&spn=30.268101,37.353516&z=4&output=embed" width="425"></iframe><br /><small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&num=200&start=193&t=m&ll=5.441022,112.060547&spn=30.268101,37.353516&z=4&source=embed" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Volta el mon</a> in a larger map</small> </span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Singapore</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Indonesia (Sumatra, Java, Bali, Lombok, Sulawesi and Kalimantan)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">East Timor</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Malaysia (Sabah, Sarawak + Kuala Lumpur)</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Brunei</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Philippines</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Thailand</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Laos</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">Cambodia</span><br />
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Al final són 34 països (+ Antàrctica) en quasi 34 mesos. No són pas gaires quan ho comparem amb altra gent que en visita 30 en un any. La diferència és que ells van a "visitar" el màxim nombre de països en una curta durada i jo els gaudeixo de debò. Sóc un home afortunat.<br />
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<span style="color: blue;">At the end it's 34 countries (+ Antarctica) in almost 34 months. It's not a lot when we compare it to other people that "visit" the same number of countries in 1 year. They fly over them and I like to enjoy them. I'm a slow traveller. A lucky man.</span><br />
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<span id="goog_2022415284"></span><span id="goog_2022415285"></span>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-59680012198549747512012-04-29T13:47:00.000+02:002012-05-21T15:49:48.077+02:00Selva, sultans i petroli a Brunei<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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La Katja i jo entràvem amb ferri a Brunei, país situat a la illa de Borneo. La capital és Bandar Seri Begawan o BSB i es tracta del cinquè país amb més renta per càpita del planeta malgrat hi ha un munt de gent vivint en la pobresa. El sultà de Brunei és un dels homes més rics del món i casa seva, un palau de dimensions astronòmiques, és el palau reial més gran del món amb més de 1.700 habitacions. Quasi res. És un país amb molt de petroli i la seva història diu que fins i tot Espanya li va declarar la guerra al segle 16.<br />
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Jungle, sultans and oil in Brunei</div>
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Katja and I were entering by ferri to Brunei, the smallest country in Asia and situated in the island of Borneo. It's the fifth richest country per capita on earth despite many people are poor and the capital is Bandar Seri Begawan. The sultan is also one of the richest men on earth and his house, the biggest palace on earth has more than a 1.700 rooms. Not bad.</div>
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Tothom m'havia dit que Brunei era lleig, avorrit i car. Per a mi em resulta interessant i barat. M'hi he estat 4 dies, que són molts per un país tan petit, però els he aprofitat de valent. He fet les principals visites com per exemple a les dues mesquites, la del sultà pare i la del fill, el passeig en barca pel barri flotant (una barri de cases i plataformes al damunt de l'aigua on viuen 20 mil persones), la selva amb els seus monos proboscis, els mercats i l'hotel Empire.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Everybody had told me that Brunei was not nice, boring and expensive. For me it was interesting and very cheap! I stayed there 4 days, a long time for such a small country but I enjoyed it there. I visited the main attractions like the two big mosques, the sultan's and the son's one, the boat ride to the floating neighbourhood where 20 thousand people live, the jungle, the markets and the Empire hotel.</span></div>
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Les mesquites són maques per fora però per dins no maten. El passeig en barca és molt interessant ja que a 10 minuts del centre tenen una selva magnífica amb manglars, monos i cocodrils. Sembla increïble que es preservi d'aquesta manera si ho comparem amb la resta de Borneo on han destrossat la selva tal·lant-ne els arbres. Aquí, gràcies a que la economia s'ha concentrat en el petroli, no han tocat la selva. Fantàstic. Aquí he vist per enèssima vegada els monos del nas llarg. M'encanten!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The mosques are pretty outside but just ok inside. The boat ride was very nice. Just 10 minutes out of the capital you can find an untouched jungle with mangroves, proboscis monkeys and crocodiles. It's incredible to see such a pristine jungle in Borneo after seeing so much destruction everywhere else. It breaks my heart crossing hundreds of quilometers with palm oil trees. But here they are so focused in oil that they haven't touch the jungle. Fantastic. Oh and I also saw for the third time proboscis monkeys. I love them!</span></div>
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L'hotel Empire va ser construit pel germà del sultà que estava fent funcions de ministre i es va construir un palau increïble, per a ell, amb diners públics. El palau va costar quasi la mateixa suma diners que les torres Petronas de Kuala Lumpur! Naturalment, el noi va ser cessat del càrrec i portat a la justícia. El palau va ser adaptat per ser un hotel de 6 estrelles. Està fet d'or i marbre blanc, piscines a tot arreu, escales mecàniques i centaners d'habitacions impressionants. Va ser una visita excitant, sobretot pel pastís de xocolata que em vaig menjar a la recepció. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The Empire hotel was built by the sultan's brother when he was a government minister and it was meant to be his own palace. The problem was that the construction was paid by public money and its cost was similar to the Petronas towers in Kuala Lumpur so his had to face justice. Today the palace is a 6 star hotel. There's gold, marble, swimming pools, escalators and beaches everywhere. It was an exciting visit and above all the best was the chocolate cake I ate at the reception.</span></div>
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Brunei és un país musulmà i la venda d'alcool està prohibida però es poden trobar bars il·legals, un dels quals està situat a prop del palau reial. Com sempre, tot és sempre una gran hipocresia. Els qui prohibeixen de beure són els primers en fer-ho.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Brunei is a muslim country and it's forbidden to sell and drink alcohol but of course there's some illegal bars, one of them is situated very close from the sultan's palace. As always, everything is a big hypocrisy. The ones that forbid of drinking are the firsts to do it.</span></div>
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També hem tingut la oportunitat de conversar amb un bon musulmà que ens ha intentat convèncer que la seva religió és la única bona (el mateix que fan totes les religions) i fins i tot ens ha estat enviant emails amb la paraula del Profeta. Considero molt interessant el tema de les religions però em cansa la gent que et vol convèncer que estàs equivocat i que has de seguir una religió determinada sense ni tansols fer-te preguntes. Així que li vaig contestar un email ben treballat dient-li sincerament què opino de la seva religió i de totes les altres. El millor és que ha respectat la meva opinió. El pitjor és que encara em vol convèncer que estic visquent en la foscor. Quina paciència!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We also had time to meet and talk to a friendly muslim at the mosque. He tried to convince us that his religion was the only one true (same said by all the other religions) and he even sent us an email with the words of the Prophet. I think religion is a very interesting subject to talk about but I'm tired of people that speak and don't listen to you, that want to convince you are wrong and that you must have a religion in particular without asking yourself questions. So I sent him an email back telling him my sincere opinion about his religion and all the others. The best is that he respected my opinion. The bad thing is that he still wants to convince me because I'm in the darkness. </span></div>
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Aprofitaré per dir-vos que el meu viatge s'acosta a la fi. Estic escrivint des de Bangkok i em queden uns dos mesos i mig per tornar a casa. Em sento força cansat i amb ganes de tornar a caseta. Ja no estic gaudint de les coses com ho feia abans i això significa que és hora de posar fi a la meva aventura. Tanmateix, em queden mil experiències per viure a Tailàndia, Laos i Cambodja. Fins aviat.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">I will take the opportunity to tell you that I'm writing from Bangkok and that my trip will end in 2 month and a half. I feel tired of travelling and I'm willing to go home. I'm not enjoying my trip as I was doing months ago so I guess the time has come of ending my adventure. Anyway, I still want to enjoy as much as possible my last time in Asia travelling through Thailand, Laos and Cambodia.</span><br />
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Després d'un llarg viatge, arribo a Malàisia, el país més desenvolupat del Sudest Asiàtic rere Singapur. De Kalimantan, a l'est de Borneo, em dirigeixo a Sabah, una mica més al nord. He de dir que estava content d'arribar a Malàisia i deixar Indonèsia enrera. Necessitava un canvi. Aquí hi han carreteres esfaltades, menjar més bo i variat, la gent parla anglès de forma correcta... i està ple de turistes! És com tornar a la civilització després d'un llarg temps vivint en l'edat mitjana. Com és possible que a l'altre costat de la frontera no hi hagi ni un sol turista? Us asseguro que Indonèsia és molt més excitant que Malàisia.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Apes, Sharks and turtles in Sabah</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">After a long trip I get to Malaysia where the weird immigration guy asks me how did I know that I could get a visa on arrival. Without knowing what to answer I just show my guidebook. He smiles, it's ok. It's the second most developped country in South East Asia after Singapore and I entering the region of Sabah, north east of the island of Borneo. I have to confess that I was happy to get to Malaysia and leave Indonesia behind. I needed a change. Here there's good roads, better and more varied food, people speak english fluently but it's full of tourists! It's like a comeback to civilization after a long time living in the middle age. Why there none in the other side of the border? I can assure you that Indonesia is much more exciting than Malaysia.</span></div>
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A Sabah, la estrella indiscutible és el submarinisme a Sipadan, una illa en un arxipèl·leg proper a la frontera amb Indonèsia i Filipines. Alguns diuen que està en el top 3 de submarinisme del món juntament amb el mar roig i la gran barrera de corall australiana. I jo venia aquí amb aquesta idea: el millor diving a Àsia. Tothom qui ve aquí és per a bucejar a Sipadan! El principal problema és que només hi han 180 permisos al dia i s'ha de fer cua o reservar amb antel·lació. Com jo sóc més xulo que ningú (i no sabia quan arribaria quí, no he reservat). L'altre problema és el preu: 160 euros per 3 immersions!!! Com es passen els molt &$#%!!!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Diving is the big star in Sabah and it's Name is Sipadan, a small island close to the border with Indonesia and the Philippines. Some say that is part of the top 3 best diving spots in the world with the red sea and the great barrier reef in Australia. I was coming here with that simple idea, the best diving in Asia. Everybody that comes here is for the diving. The main problems are the permits and the prices. There's 180 permits a day and the prices are around 160 euros for 3 dives. Usually people book a permit in advance but I didn't.</span></div>
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Després d'escollir una de les moltes empreses de submarinisme que hi ha aquí, em dirigeixo a Mabul, una petita illa coneguda pel seu muck diving, que significa, submarinisme d'animals petits. Estaré aquí 4 dies fins que sigui el meu torn d'anar a Sipadan. A Mabul, quasi tota la població és filipina, immigrants il·legals majoritàriament. A Sipadan ja no s'hi pot quedar a dormir degut a la protecció mediambiental de l'illa. Només hi viuen els militars!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">After asking in around the town in diving schools, i book my permit and I go to Mabul to dive and wait for my day to come. Mabul is another of the small islands in the area famous for its muck diving. I'll stay here for nights and will meet great people. In Mabul the population mainly philippino, illegal immigrants that crossed the weak border. In Sipadan it's forbidden to stay because of the environmental protection. There's only the army walking around with their machine guns.</span></div>
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A Mabul, hi ha tants turistes que la gent local no és gaire amable. L'illa és molt interessant però no m'acaba de fer el pes. Potser és perquè, després d'Indonèsia, no estic acostumat a estar envoltat de tants turistes i preus tan cars. El senyor Lonely Planet només parla de reservar tot amb antel·lació en aquesta part de Malàsia i això em provoca indigestió a part de mala llet. I els preus són abusius, és clar. Una cosa porta a l'altra. Bé, almenys vaig fer bons amics a Mabul.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">In Mabul there's so many tourists taht the locals are not very nice. The island is beautiful but after Indonesia I'm not used to be surrounded by other tourists and having to pay high prices. Mister Lonely Planet say that you should book everything and this upsets me. I hate booking in advance! It's normal: many tourists, high prices, booking in advance requested, hence unfriendly people.</span></div>
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A Sipadan, em va començar plovent i la visibilitat i la llum no eren les idònies per a la pràctica del submarinisme. A mida que avançava el dia va anar millorant la cosa. Al final del dia havia vist uns 40 taurons, 30 tortugues i altres espècies interessants. Ens vam perdre el banc de Jack Fish i el de barracudes. Imperdonable. Resum, va estar bé però m'esperava molt més. Segurament és culpa meva que les meves expectatives éren molt i molt altes, però és perquè te les posen altes!!! Així que content però amb aquella sensació de decepció. I quan la gent em preguntava com havia anat no sabia què contestar...</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">My dive in Sipadan startet raining, with bad light and bad visibility. The day got better and at the end I had seen about 40 sharks and 30 turtles among other interesting species. We missed the school of jack fish and barracudas. Unforgivable. So it was a good dive but it could have been much better. I blame it to the high expectations I had but people make your expectations rise! I think it was a good dive but I was disapointed. Still today when people ask me about Sipadan I don't know what to answer.</span></div>
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El meu proper pas era el riu Kinabatangan, un riu molt xulo on pots contractar passejos en barca. Aquí hi vaig venir amb en Carlos, un noi madrileny molt i molt merengue (quina creu! hahahaha), i la Katja, una alemanya molt... peculiar? Amb els passejos pots veure macacos i micos proboscis, aquells del nas gros. Aquest parell estan garantits. I si tens sort pots veure orangutans, elefants i llangardaixos monitor (que poden fer un metre i mig de llarg!). No vam veure els elefants però vam veure els altres dos. Ens podem considerar afortunats. La veritat és que és molt recomanable, però no ho feu organitzat des de Sandakan! Feu-ho pel vostre compte dormint a Sukau, un poblet molt acollidor i ple d'hotals barats.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">My next stop was the Kinabatangan river. A very nice river that you can ride on a boat to see proboscis monkeys, orangutans, macaques, monitor lizards, elephants... we saw everything but the elephants. I was there with Carlos, a spanish guy big supporter of real madrid (what a pain in the ass! hahaha) and Katja, a friendly german girl. I recomend very much going visiting the river but don't book a tour from Sandakan. Go to Sukau and stay in a cheap accomodation instead.</span></div>
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A la regió de Sabah em vaig saltar vàries coses, com per exemple, el trekking a Mount Kinabalu. És car, caríssim, i és temporada de pluges pel que t'arrisques a arribar a la cima i que els núbols et tapin tot el paisatge. S'han de pagar permisos, guies (en un camí ben marcat), i allotjament en l'únic hostal, un monopoli que et fa pagar 80 euros per dormir en un dormitori compartit amb 20 persones més. Això sí, diuen que el menjar és excel·lent. A més, per evitar que pugis i baixis en un sol dia, no et deixen començar gaire d'hora per obligar-te a fer nit al seu hotelet. Pel meu orgull que no pujo ni que em paguin!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">I skipped several sights in Sabah, for example Mount Kinabalu. It's very expensive and it's rainy season so you risk to get to the summit and have a cloudy day that will hide the landscape. You have to pay permits, guides (that actually you don't need) and accomodation in the only place at base camp. This monopol costs 80 euros to sleep in a dorm with 20 more people. They want to avoid you climbing to the summit in one day and back so they don't allow you to leave very early in the morning so you'll have to stay at the hostel or you have to climb very fast. I'm sorry but I won't climb it!</span></div>
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I Kota Kinabalu és una ciutat... bé, això, és una ciutat. No té res, és avorrida i grisa. L'únic que em va agradar va ser l'hostal i el mercat on pots menjar de nit. La resta t'ho pots estalviar. I tot això acompanyat de la simpàtica Katja, la noia peculiar i divertida, entre altres, hahahaha. Aviat passarem a Brunei, un país que m'atrau però que tothom diu que és lleig i avorrit. Ho comprobarem amb els nostres propis ulls!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Kota Kinabalu is just a grey boring city. The night market is good but that's it. I came here with friendly Katja and now we go to Brunei. People say there's nothing interesting in there but in my head it's a place that attracts my attention. We'll check it out ourselves!</span></div>
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<br /></div>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-78070287678878036152012-04-05T06:10:00.000+02:002012-05-21T15:52:11.780+02:00Enamorat de Pulau Derawan, Kalimantan part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Després de la tortura de 27 hores en un taxi compartit, dues en cotxe i una en barca, arribo a Pulau Derawan, el meu objectiu final. Una illa a la part est de Kalimantan, Indonèsia, a la illa de Borneo. M'han dit és molt xula però us he de confessar que no surt ni a la meva guia. Allí trobo turistes per primera vegada en una setmana. De seguida fem un grupet maco i passem uns dies fantàstics. Nedant, fent esnorkelling, jugant a voleiball, passejant pel poble, fent tours a les illes pròximes... Principalment passo les hores amb la simpàtica Flore, francesa, amb la qui comparteixo habitació, tours, despeses i rialles. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">In love with Pulau Derawan, Kalimantan part 2</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">After 27 hours of a horrible trip by shared taxi, 2 hours by car and 1 by boat, I finally get to Pulau Derawan. This small island on the east side of Kalimantan, the Indonesian part of Borneo, looks very exciting but it's not even commented in my guidebook. Here I meet other travellers for the first time in a week. We quickly form a nice group of people and we spend some fantastic days swimming, snorkelling, playing voleiball, strolling around the village, visiting nearby islands... I spend my days mainly with friendly Flore from France which whom I share a room, tours, meals, laughs and good company.</span></div>
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Aquí aprenc que Indonèsia és el país amb més musulmans del món perquè el govern obliga a tot ciutadà fer constar una religió al seu carnet d'identitat. Poden escollir entre ser musulmans, catòlics, Induístes o budhistes. La majoria escolleix l'Islam però es tracta només d'una religió de DNI. La realitat és molt diferent. Això passa amb totes les tribus en illes remotes o indrets aïllats, que són molts en un país amb més de 17 mil illes.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">In Derawan I learn the reason why Indonesia is the country with the biggest muslim population. Everybody must choose a religion that will be written in their ID card. They have 4 choices: muslim, catolic, buddhist and hindu. The majority chooses muslim and it's called ID religion. In this huge country of 17 thousand islands and hundreds of tribes the reallity is very different.</span></div>
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Els hostals tenen llargues plataformes damunt del mar que es tapen les vistes els uns als altres. Tota la brutícia va al mar, sota de la meva habitació sempre hi han plàstigs, caixes, roba, ampolles. Absolutament tot va a parar al mar. I mira que l'indret és idíl·lic! Si enlloc de mirar sota la meva habitació, miro 20 metres més enllà, em trobo amb una desena de tortugues gegants. Mai no havia vist una cosa així. Nedes amb una i te'n trobes dues més. Vas canviant de l'una a l'altra. Brutal. Vaig veure unes 20 tortugues en 30 minuts!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The hostels are situated in long wooden platforms over the water and they hide the beach views ones to the others. Littering is a big problem and everything ends into the sea. Under my cabin I can find plastic bags, cardboard boxes, clothes or bottles anytime. Despite it's a small village in a paradise, littering is as common as breathing. If instead of looking under my cabin I look at the end of the platform, I can see dozens of huge turtles. I had never seen something like this. You can swim with them and as you do, you meet more and more turtles. It's absolutely mind-blowing. In less than thirty minutes I saw around 20 turtles!</span></div>
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En aquesta illa hi venen les tortugues a pondre els seus ous. La WWF (World Wild Foundation) té un centre per poder controlar i ajudar a augmentar-ne la seva població. Sense la seva ajuda, només l'1% dels ous tindria probabilitat d'èxit. Els ous, enterrats a la sorra, tenen molts depredadors, mamífers, rèptils, ocells, humans, etc. Vaig tenir la immensa sort de presenciar una tortuga ponent ous. Una experiència única. La tortuga surt de l'aigua, s'endinsa una mica a la sorra, cava una forat de dimensions considerables i comença a pondre. Vam comptar 94 ous! Després, durant 1 hora, la tortuga tapa el forat amb les potes posteriors... mentre els de la WWF caven de nou el forat i extreuen els ous que protegiran durant 2 mesos fins que naixeran les cries de tortuga.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Many diferent kinds of turtles come to Derawan island to nest. The WWF comes to the island to control and help to increase its population. WIthout their actions only 1% of the eggs would survive. The eggs are buried in the sand and have lots of predators: mammals, reptiles, birds, humans, etc. I was very lucky to witness a green turtle nesting. A fantastic experience. The turtle gets out of the sea, comes to the sand, dig a huge hole and start nesting. We saw 94 eggs! After nesting the turtle needs around 1 hour to cover the eggs throwing sand into the hole with its back legs while the WWF take the eggs. The WWF will keep them and take care of them during 2 months until the baby turtles will be born.</span></div>
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Quan el senyor Lonely Planet va venir aquí fa 5 anys, va descriure que el submarinisme era fora de serie. I tenia raó. Tanmateix, ha plogut molt i en 5 anys ho han destroçat tot. La pesca per dinamita i cianur ha deixat la zona sense coralls. Es tan trist! Com sempre, a tot arreu es repeteix la mateixa història sense importar la ètnia, el país o el continent. Es viu el dia a dia i el futur no importa. Mentre els turistes segueixin venint no canviaran res. Segurament, quan deixin de venir, tampoc canviaran res. Es una mentalitat que exaspera però després dels meus viatges, puc arribar entendre. Ells fan el què és millor per a la seva família en el moment present i això és pescar molt per alimentar-los i vendre el què els sobri.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">When mister Lonely Planet came to Derawan 5 years ago, he described the diving here as incredible, as good as Sipadan. And he was right or that's what some people told me. Sadly things have changed a lot in this 5 years and the locals have destroyed everything because of their fishing techniques with dinamite or cyanide. No more corals. It's so sad! After this 2 years and a half you can see the same thing over and over everywhere. It doesn't mind what continent, country, city or tribe. For these people today is all what matters. The future never comes. I have to confess that after seeing that many times I can even understand them. They do what is better for their family in the present moment. That means catching a lot of fish to feed them and sell what it's left.</span></div>
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A part de les tortugues, a Pulau Derawan les grans estrelles són les manta rayes. Jo no sabia que aquí n'hi havien però sembla que estan aquí, ARA!!! Quan vaig començar el meu viatge, anava amb la idea de veure dues coses: manta rayes i taurons bal·lena. Ha arribat l'hora de veure els primers!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Apart from the turtles, in the island of Derawan the stars are the manta rays. I didn't know they were here but it seems that I came at the right moment! When I started this trip I wanted to see two things: the manta rays and the whalesharks. It's time to see the Mantas!</span></div>
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Una viatget amb barca ens porta primer a una illa amb un llac amb 4 espècies de meduses que no piquen perquè al no tenir depredadors, no han desenvolupat cap tipus de protecció. Ens banyem amb milers de meduses que ens acarícien suaument la pell. Al llac hi ha manglars que no sé perquè però tenen coralls o plantes marines de colors a les seves arrels!!! Els colors són fantàstics.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">A boat trip takes us to an island with a lake full of jellyfish. They don't sting because they have no predators so you can swim with them. It's a fantastic feeling to be swimming surrounded by hundreds of them, you're even careful not to bother them too much but they stroke softly your skin. In this lake there's also mangroves that their roots are covered by colourful plants that look like coralls. The colours are beautiful!</span></div>
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Dinem sols en una platja increïble i anem a veure les manta rayes. Les veiem des del vaixell, ens tirem a l'aigua i no m'ho puc creure. Tinc 3 manta rayes nedant al meu voltant, menjant plancton, amb les seves boques obertes. Aquests animals són brutals! Bestials! Preciosos! Majestuosos! Nedar amb elles és una de les experiències més increïbles que he viscut en la meva vida. Fan uns 3 o 4 metres d'amplada i es mouen amb una elegància increïble. Un dels animals més macos i impressionants que he vist mai. No hi han paraules per descriure aquella estona amb les manta rayes.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We eat with no more tourists in a beautiful beach and we go to see the mantas. First we spot them from the boat and them we dive. I cannot believe it! I'm surrounded by 3 huge mantas that are swimming around me with their mouths open, eating plancton. Those animals are incredibles! Gorgeous! Elegant! Swimming with them is one of the most amazing experiences in my life. They are 3 or 4 meters big and are so... no words to describe how incredible they are. The best so far for me. Ah, and they can jump outside of the water!!! They breach like whales. Wow!</span></div>
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Els dies a la fantàstica illa de Derawan s'acaben. Ha arribat el moment de marxar. La Flore es queda uns dies més amb l'Antonio, un xicot espanyol ben especial però divertit. Dos dies de viatge per terra i mar em portaran a la frontera amb Malàsia. A prop del país veí ja es pot respirar un ambient diferent: més població xinesa, més riquesa, tot més civilitzat. Estic trist de deixar Indonèsia i sobretot Kalimantan. La experiència ha estat increïble i estarà a la meva memòria de forma imborrable per sempre més.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The days in the fantastic island of Derawan are ending. I have to go and Flore stays a little longer with Antonio, a funny spanish guy. Two days travelling north by car and boat will take me close to the border with Malaysia. You can even see that things are different here: more chinese population, more wealth, more infrastructure. It's sad to leave Indonesia and even more Kalimantan but the experience has been incredible and will stay in my memory forever. </span></div>
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-57778945210798049832012-03-22T03:10:00.000+01:002012-05-21T15:52:39.105+02:00El riu Mahakam i les tribus Dayak, Kalimantan part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Borneo... una altra illa màgica que desperta la imaginació. Un dels pulmons més importants del planeta i la cinquena illa més gran del món. No cal que us digui que sempre havia somiat en viatjar a Borneo. Tres països es reparteixen l'illa: Indonèsia, Malasia i Brunei. La part d'Indonèsia és la més gran, la més salvatge i la més autèntica. El seu nom és Kalimantan. És difícil de recórrer perquè no hi han suficients carreteres i s'ha de creuar la jungla durant diversos dies ja sigui en barca o a peu. Potser per això estava tan content d'estar aquí: torna l'aventura! Les coses estan canviant poc a poc però encara queda un llarg camí i jo penso que és millor que no camvii gaire.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The Mahakam river and the Dayak people, Kalimantan part 1</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Borneo is another magical island that makes me dream. One of the most important lungs of our planet and the fifth biggest island in the world. Three countries share Borneo: Indonesia, Malaysia and Brunei. The Indonesian part is the biggest, the wildest, the most autentic. Its name is Kalimantan. It's difficult to travel through because there's not enough roads and sometimes it's necessary to cross the jungle by boat or foot for some days. Maybe this is the reason I was so happy to be here: more adventure! Things are changing fast though but there's still a long way to go and I hope it doesn't change much.</span></div>
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La selva és densa, impenetrable i salvatge, però les ciutats són lletges, contaminades i caòtiques. Balikpapan és la capital de la part est i no n'és la excepció. A més, no he vist ni un sol turista en tot el dia. Feia temps que no em passava. No sé si he d'estar content o trist. Samarinda, una altra ciutat més al nord, tampoc és una meravella però és la porta d'accés al riu Mahakam. I allà és on vull anar jo.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">The jungle is thick and wild but the cities are ugly, polluted and caotic. Balikpapan is the capital of the eastern part and it's horrible. No tourists here, I wonder why. Samarinda is another ugly city heading north. No tourists here either but it's the gateway to go to the Mahakam river, my aim for some days.</span></span></div>
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Trobo una altra persona disposada a compartir les despeses d'un guia que ens portarà tres dies i dues nits pel riu. La experiència és fantàstica però la durada és massa curta. Amb temps i diners, es pot convertir amb la experiència de la teva vida, de veritat. Dormim en Longhouses, que de fet són cases llarges fetes de fusta que s'utilitzen per a actes de la comunitat o allotjament per a turistes.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">I meet another person wanting to share costs for a guide that will take us 3 days and 2 nights upstream. The experience is incredible but it's too short! With time and money this could be once in a lifetime experience. We sleep in Longhouses that are long houses made of wood used by the community town and to host tourists.</span></div>
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El primer dia és pràcticament de viatge però el dia següent comencem la passejada en barca per la selva, concretament entre Tanjung Isuy i Mancong, dos poblats de la ètnia Dayak, gent del bosc que es resisteix a la intrusió de tot el què és modern (amb la excepció de la televisió, és clar). Viuen al damunt del riu i les cases estan unides mitjançant plataformes de fusta. Cada casa o sector de cases té una petita caseta de fusta, amb un forat al terra, just al damunt del riu. Us imagineu per a què serveix? </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The first day is a hard travelling day but the following day is the beginning of a nice boat ride through the jungle, going from Tanjung Isuy to Mancong, two villages where the Dayak people live. The Dayak are forest people who resist modern intrusions on their traditions (but TV, obviously). They live on wooden houses above the rivers and those are linked by wooden platforms. Every house or area of houses have a small cabin on the river with a hole in the center: the toilet!</span></div>
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De nit anem a caçar amb una escopeta de bales d'aire comprimit... Després de dues hores caminant per la foscor sense trobar res, vam tornar a caseta amb les mans buides.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">After dinner I go hunting with 2 local hunters. After two hours walking on the dark without any result we go back home empty handed. Sad!</span></div>
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El riu en sí és fantàstic, preciós, verge. Hores creuant la selva, veient serps, poblats, i monos proboscis (aquells de nas gran). És la primera vegada que els veig i són impressionants però tímits. S'escapen cada vegada que ens veuen. Tothom diu que són lletjos però a mi m'encanten! En les meves fotos només vaig poder agafar femelles o mascles joves, tots amb el nas petit. Llàstima. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The river is so pretty! So untouched by modern life. We spend hours crossing the jungle through the snake shape river watching at birds, villages, snakes and proboscis monkeys, those big monkeys with huges noses (called Dutch monkeys by the locals). People say they are ugly but I love them! They are so cute! Sadly I could only take pictures of females and young males which have short noses.</span></div>
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Parem en diversos poblats i xerrem amb la gent, juguem amb els nens, em banyo amb ells... genial! Em passo dues hores fent mil salts des d'un pont amb una vintena de nens i nenes de totes les edats que volen impressionar-me amb les seves volteretes, i ho aconsegueixen! Nens de 7 anys saltant 3 metres d'alçada no es troben a Europa. Una experiència única i sense més turistes. Difícil de trobar a Àsia.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We stop at different villages, talk to the people, play with the kids, I swim with them... awesome! I spend a couple of hours jumping from a bridge over the river with two dozens of children of all ages wanting to impress me with their flips. And they do! Seven year old children jumping over a three meters high bridge is something you cannot find easily in Europe. A unique experience without any other tourists.</span></div>
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Tornada a la gris Samarinda on passo un dia de descans i vaig al modern cinema a veure una pel·lícula dolentíssima d'en Nicolas Cage. Em dirigeixo més cap al nord i he d'escollir entre avió (55 €, 1 hora) o taxi compartit (20 €, mínim 18 hores). Com que em sento malament perquè he gastat massa diners amb la meva excursió a la selva, decideixo que agafaré el taxi compartit. Com era de preveure, resulta ser una tortura xina. Més aventura!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">I come back to grey Samarinda where I spend a day resting and going to the modern cinema to watch an awful movie with Nicolas Cage. After this I'm heading north and I have two options: plane, 55 €, 1 hour, or shared taxi, 20 €, 18 hours minimum. As I feel bad for spending too much money with my days in the jungle I decide to go by road. As expected it's worse than being tortured by the russian mafia. More adventure!</span></div>
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La part dolenta que descobreixo aquí és que Borneo no és el què la resta del món es pensa que és. Almenys jo pensava que era el pulmó del món, però Borneo fuma massa, té càncer. Ja no pot respirar. Quilòmetres i quilòmetres de desolació. La tal·la d'arbres està incontrolada i és massiva. La selva desapareix ràpidament i enlloc d'arbres, grans multinacionals planten palmeres per extreure'n oli, oli de palma, és clar. Trist. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The bad thing I discover during my ride is that Borneo is not anymore what people think it is. I thought it was the lungs of this planet but I was wrong. It cannot breath no more. The jungle has disapeared, logged legaly or illegaly but has no trees anymore. Now the big industries have modified the landscape and we can only see thounsands and thousands of palm oil trees. It so sad to witness.</span></div>
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Després de 12 hores es comença a fer fosc i estem atrapats en un caos monumental provocat pel fang i les pluges. Dues files de cotxes en els dos sentits, centenars de cotxes i camions coberts de fang i sembla que passarem la nit aquí encallats. És negre nit, no veiem les estrelles a causa de les llums dels cotxes, Després de 3 hores el nostre conductor decideix (amb els seu cotxe amb tracció a 2 rodes) que ho intentarà de nou, per segona vegada. Ens fa baixar a tots, i s'endinsa dins la muntanya d'un metre de fang per poder avançar el caos. Impressionant. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">After twelve hours it's getting dark and we're trapped like rats in a monumental traffic caos provoqued by the mud and rain. Two rows of cars heading both sides block the road. Hundreds of cars and trucks will keep us here for the night. After three hours the driver decides to try the dirty lane again. The last time he had to go backwards to escape being stuck with his two wheels drive car. This time we all get off, he takes some speed and enter the dark and muddy passage. It was really impressive.</span></div>
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Les rodes comencen a escopir fang per a tot arreu, el cul del cotxe va d'un costat a l'altre de la carretera intentant evitar les altres dues files de cotxes... ho està aconseguint!!! S'encalla, per setena vegada. Correm tots a empènyer. Això o perdre 10 hores més en aquest caos. Mentre empenyem, el fang no para d'esquitzar-nos. Però el cotxe es mou lentament, amb un soroll infernal de les rodes lliscant a una velocitat incontrolable i pudor d'alguna cosa mecànica (motor, goma, embrague?). Poc a poc sortim de l'embús no sense empènyer 4 o 5 vegades més. Estem coberts de fang de cap a peus. Prop de la mitjanit, famèlics, bruts i exhausts, parem en un restaurant a descansar i menjar una mica. Quina nit, quin viatge!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The wheels spit mud everywhere, the back of the car swings from one side to the other of the road avoiding the other cars by miracle... he's gonna make it! He gets stuck for the seventh time and we all run to push him out of the mud. We have no other choice. We have mud from head to toes but the car is going forward, slowly. The wheels slip fast making a horrible noise and smell. After pushing him a few more times we finally get out of the caos. We're all covered by mud, starving, thirsty, smelly and exhausted. We deserve a nice dinner by the road at midnight, we can stretch our legs.</span></div>
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Seguim el viatge i la carretera és horrorosa. Mai havia vist uns forats tan grans! I les muntanyes de fang són constants. Dormim com podem. De fet no dormim. I esperem que el conductor que ja porta 15 hores conduint no s'adormi. La pitjor carretera que vist mai, i mira que n'he vist! Finalment arribem a la nostra destinació a les dues de la tarda. Han estat 27 hores duríssimes però l'aventura ha sigut sense límits. Tanmateix, sembla que no he no em puc quedar aquí. Resulta que és Any Nou xinès i tots els hostals estan plens. Decideixo continuar sense ni tansols descansar per dinar.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We keep going but the road is terrible. I'd never seen holes that big! And piles of 1 meter high mud are everywhere. We sleep as well as we can. Actually we can't sleep and we hope the driver won't either. He's been driving for 15 hours so far and he must be tired. It's the worst road I've ever seen. Soon in the afternoon we get to our destination after 27 hours in that car. I'm tired but happy with the adventure... next time I'll catch the plane! Sadly it seems that the time for me to rest has not come yet. It's Chinese New Year's eve and every single hostel is full. It's time for me to keep going. I don't have time to rest or eat.</span></div>
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Vull arribar a la illa de Derawan quant abans millor. Allà descansaré. Només em queden 3 hores pel paradís!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">I want to get to the island of Derawan as soon as possible. I'll be able to rest there. Three more hours to go!!!</span></div>
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-38168426211061352742012-03-10T08:20:00.000+01:002012-05-21T15:53:14.792+02:00Navegant per les fantàstiques illes Togean, Sulawesi part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Seguim a Indonèsia, concretament al nord de Sulawesi, aquesta illa amb una forma peculiar. Hem deixat la sang i fetge de les terres de Tana Toraja per endinsar-nos en un petit arxipèl·leg d'illes fantàstiques: les illes Togean. La Susana, en Wilco i jo arribem tard a l'illa de Kadidiri, quan s'està fent fosc. Estem cansats, una mica de mala llet, xops del viatge en barca però contens per haver acomplert el nostre objectiu: arribar a les Togean a temps per celebrar-hi el Cap d'Any. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Great Island hopping through the Togean islands, Sulawesi part 2</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We're still in Indonesia, in the north of Sulawesi. We left the bloody fields of Tana Toraja to get into the small archipelago of the Togean islands. Susana, Wilco and I are still together and we arrive late to Kadidiri island when it's almost dark. We are tired, mooody, wet from the boat trip but very happy to be able to accomplish what we wanted: getting to the Togean islands before New Year's eve.</span></div>
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Per poder venir aquí ràpidament hem hagut d'agafar la barca de l'hotel més car, però ha valgut la pena. Per 18 euros al dia tenim una habitació enorme davant de la platja, dutxa (enlloc de cubells), aigua corrent, 3 àpats al dia i un munt d'hamaques amb bons coixins per descansar. Sona bé :)</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">To come here as fast as possible we had to take a fast boat from the most expensive hostel and we have to stay with them. It's wort it. We pay around 18 euros per night with 3 meals included, a real shower, flushing water and lots of bedding at the beach to rest and relax.</span></div>
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Els dies passen en la bonica platja del Kadidiri Paradise resort. M'encanta. Jo llegeixo estirat tot el dia en un matalàs a la passarel·la de fusta que hi ha a la platja. Un lloc privilegiat. Mentre els altres van a caminar, a fer snorkelling i passen més temps junts, jo segueixo a la meva hamaca. Ho necessitava. Les vistes des d'allà són precioses. El color de l'aigua excepcional. Em fa mandra moure'm inclús per anar a dinar. Qui vol fer res al paradís?</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The days go by in the small beach of Kadidiri Paradise resort. I love it! I spend my days lying on a beach mattress at the woodden platform. I don't do anything but see the hours go by while I read, rest and feel on holidays. The others go to do some snorkelling, walking in the jungle and have some fun together. On the other hand, I spend 5 days doing nothing. I needed it. The views from where i lay are very pretty and the colour of the water in fantastic. I'm even lazy to go to eat!</span></div>
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Arriba Cap d'Any i no tinc ni internet, ni cobertura al mòbil ni puc tallar arbres per fer una foguera i fer senyals de fum. Llàstima! Passen els dies i no puc contactar amb la família i els amics. Ho sento!!! Ja se sap que quan s'està al paradís... El sopar de Cap d'Any és d'allò més entretingut: empal·len un corder com a les pel·lícules i van donant-li voltes al damunt de foc. Hi ha música, ballaruca i poc alcohol que és car! Una ampolla de cervesa val uns 4 euros.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">It's New Year's eve and there's no internet, no cell phone reception, no nothing that would help me to say hi to my family and friends. And I'll be 10 days in those islands! That's the only problem of paradise (or is it maybe a blessing?). The dinner is really interesting. We eat a goat that has been cooking all day on the beach fire. There's music, dancing and not much alcohol becuase it's expensive! One bottle costs 4 euros! Damned islands!</span></div>
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Després de sopar, a les 7 de la tarda, estic tan cansat de no fer res que decideixo anar a fer una migdiada. És que això d'haver d'esperar 5 hores per poder celebrar el nou any és una putada! Els altres es diverteixen i jo intento dormir. Sembla que m'ha picat la mosca tse-tse i entraré en coma! Però com puc tenir tanta son? Em desperto a les 11 i mitja, celebro el Cap d'Any i torno a dormir abans de la una!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">My problem is that the dinner is at 7 pm and what are we supposed to do until midnight? Well, I'm so tired that my decision brings me to my bed. Then I wake up a 23.30 h, have a small party with my friends and go back to bed before 1 am. It looks that this year my New Year party is calm but better than last year. No sadness, just tireness. </span></div>
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Els dies passen i en Wilco ha de marxar. El seu visat expira i vol explorar més illes, però no ho fa sol, ho fa amb 4 americanes que jo descriuria com... ties bones! Quin paio, ell sí que en sap. Jo marxaré amb la Susana i dues parelles, una de Canadà i una altra de Holanda / Alemanya... avorrit!!! Ens feia mandra canviar de platja però val la pena fer-ho. Al final anem a un parell d'illes, a descobrir unes platges amagades molt xules, a fer snorkelling, a menjar i a dormir! Relax.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Days go by and Wilco has to leave. Actually, he wants to join 4 pretty American girls to do some island hopping. Nice Wilco! You're my hero! My adventure leads to stay some more days there and leave afterwards to some other islands with Susana and 2 more couples from Canada and Holland / Germany.</span></div>
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I aquí ve la gran crítica! Segur que ja l'estàveu esperant i pensàveu que era estrany que en Marc no digui res dolent d'aquests llocs. Doncs sí. Les Togean tenen un punt feble. El fons marí és d'una qualitat molt pobre. Els pescadors l'han destrossat pescant amb dinamita. Els coralls estan trencats i poques zones queden que valguin la pena d'explorar. És una gran llàstima i quan veus els coralls en aquell estat et fa ràbia. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">And here comes my criticism. The Togean islands have a big problem: the coral is in poor quality. The fishermen use bad techniques to fish like dinamite fishing or cyanide. The corals are broken, dead or they don't exist anymore. It's so sad and frustrating when you see it.</span></div>
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Passem els dies molestant a crancs gegants, fent salts increïbles des d'un trampolí, juguant amb uns cadells de gos... Això és vida!!! Cada illa ens ha agradat més que l'anterior. Amb els nostres nous amics ens ho hem passat molt bé fent uns 10 dies de R&R (rest and relax), però ha arribat el moment de tornar a la civilització. Un viatge de 10 hores en ferri (on vam pagar als mariners per robar-los el seu camarot) i 8 hores en un minitaxi que ens va matar les cames, i finalment arribem a Manado. Una ciutat horrorosa que només té un interès: poder accedir a les illes del voltant famoses mundialment pel seu submarinisme.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The new islands are really nice. We're happy we had the energy to explore other places. We see huge coconut crabs, we play with puppies, we rest, we enjoy the food and the beach... that's life! But it's time to go back to civilization and that means 10 hours by ferry (where we took the staff's cabin) and 8 horrible hours in a taxi, to get to Manado. An ugly city that has only one interest: it's the gateaway to the fantastic diving in Bunaken and Lembeh.</span></div>
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Bunaken és la gran estrella. Una illa envoltada de parets plenes vida submarina. Com als llocs anteriors, aquí també és pensió completa i tenim una habitació gegant per un preu raonable. Faig una mica de submarinisme i snorkelling. El lloc és fantàstic i no volem marxar però tenim uns vols d'avió que ens esperen. La Susana se'n va cap a Sumatra i jo cap a Borneo. Per altra banda, a Bunaken tenen un altre problema, la brutícia! Com ho llencen tot al mar, la porqueria d'una ciutat sencera com Manado ve a parar a Bunaken degut a les corrents. És una gran pena!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Bunaken is the big star here. An island surrounded by walls and incredible wildlife. You pay the accomodation for a fixed price with meals included. It's not bad and we meet everyone we met previously travelling in Sulawesi. Fun.We dive and snorkel all day long. The place is great and we don't wanna leave but several planes will take us soon to our next destinations. Susana is going to Sumatra, the Canadians are going to Maluku (I'm jealous!) and I'm goig to Borneo. I will also say that Bunaken has another important problem: littering! You're diving and it's easy to see trash. It's not nice to see but this small island is next to a big city and there's nothing you can do about it. So bad!</span></div>
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Abans de marxar tenim temps de visitar el famós mercat de Tomohon on venen rates, ratpanats, gossos sucarrimats, serps i altres coses fastigoses. Jo crec que s'ho mengen! Mmmm, m'entra gana! Una mica de rata farcida de ratpanat amb suc de gos succarimat!!! Deliciós! Au, ens veiem a Kalimantan.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Before leaving Sulawesi we have time to visit the famous market in Tomohon where you can buy rats, bats, snakes, roasted dogs... I think that they eat all that. I'm getting hungry! Now for breakfast I could have some rat stuffed with bat and dog juice! Delicious! See you soon in Kalimantan!</span></div>
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Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-17663506071955390392012-02-21T13:10:00.000+01:002012-05-21T15:54:17.785+02:00Ritus funeraris a Tana Toraja, Sulawesi part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Versió catalana</div>
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Aquesta és la primera vegada que publico una entrada del blog en dos idiomes, català, la meva llengua, i anglès, la meva llengua quan viatjo. És l'idioma que parlo cada dia, tot el dia, fins i tot en somnis. I com la majoria de gent que em trobo viatjant parla anglès i molts d'ells segueixen el blog, he decidit fer una prova i veure què tal funciona.</div>
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Sulawesi... qui no ha sentit a parlar de Sulawesi, a Indonèsia? Bé, segur que molta gent pensarà "jo". Però qui no ha vist mai aquell famós reportatge del National Geographic on en una illa llunyana tenen ritus funeraris estranys on sacrifiquen búfals al voltant d'unes cases amb sostres amb forma de barca o de lletra "U"? Potser és culpa meva que enlloc de veure el culebron de la tarda veia tots els reportatges de La 2. En aquest viatge he complert molts somnis que van començar quan vaig veure un reportatge a la televisió, i anar a Sulawesi n'és un.</div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">English version</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">This is the first time that my blog will be in English! Let's try and see how it works. I'll wait for your comments in this blog and on facebook!</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: blue;">Sulawesi... who has never heard anything about Sulawesi, in Indonesia? Well, I guess that many readers will think "me!". Ok, fair enough. But who has never seen this National Geographic documentary where some weird people leaving far away have funerary rituals where they sacrify water buffalos surrounded by strange houses which roofs look like a ship or lhaving a "U" shape? I hope more people know what I'm talking about now.</span></span></div>
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Deixo Timor i arribo a Makassar, la capital de Sulawesi. Allà em retrobo amb la Susana, la noia de Bilbao que havia viatjat amb mi durant uns 15 dies per Bali i Lombok. A última hora ha decidit que s'apunta a l'aventura així que seguirem junts unes setmanes més. A més, adoptem en Wilco, un holandès super simpàtic que ens acompanyarà fins que li permeti el visat.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">I leave Timor and get to Makassar, Sulawesi's capital. There I meet Susana, my Bilbao friend that I met in Bali and travelled with her for a while. A last minute decision made her come to join me in this adventure through this mysterious island so we will be able to travel together for a little longer. It will be nice to meet her again. We will also enjoy the company of Wilco a super friendly Dutch guy that is travelling on his own.</span></div>
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Lamentablement, passem la nit de Nadal a l'autocar. Sortim a les 9 de la nit i arribarem a les 5 del matí. Us podeu imagina una nit de nadal més original? Ha sigut impossible trobar seients en cap altra data ja que molta gent viatja per retrobar-se amb la família. Els 3 ens fem regals mutus, un dels quals inclou uns barrets de pare Noel molt xulos, hehehhee. Ens despertem el matí de Nadal amb els sotracs de l'autocar que recorre una carretera amb forats. Ha sigut una nit dura i llarga, bon Nadal!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We spend Christmas Eve travelling in a night bus heading to Tana Toraja. It has been impossible to find any seat available at any other day. During those days, many people are travelling home to spend the holidays with the family. In Sulawesi there's many catolic people. With Susana and Wilco we do a small Christmas party with some presents, including a cute Santa Claus hat. We woke up on the bus driving through the dusty bumpy road. That's a different Christmas from what I'm used to. Original isn't it?</span></div>
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Arribem a la regió de Tana Toraja, famosa en tot el món pels seus ritus funeraris. Quan una persona mor, se'l prepara per a l'espera. Literalment se'l disseca per a poder-lo conservar a dins de casa, amb la família, fins que es reuneixi els diners suficients que permetran enviar la persona difunta al més enllà, amb bona companyia. Poden passar un o dos anys amb un cadàver a casa!!! Quan tenen prous diners, compren els búfals, porcs i organitzen una gran festa. Els animals acompanyaran el difunt a l'altre costat, per tant, com més diners, més búfals, i més ben acompanyat i protegit estarà el difunt en l'altra vida.</div>
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I molts pensareu, incloent-me a mi, que seria molt millor estalviar aquests diners per als qui estan vius. Jo penso que sí, però ells no estan d'acord. És la seva tradició i ha perdurat durant segles.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We get to Tana Toraja, the region famous all around the world for the funerary rituals. When a person dies, the body is prepared for a long wait until it can leave to the other world. The body will stay at home with the rest of the family until they have enough money to honor the dead persona and pay for a good ceremony. Usually they wait between 1 and 2 years before the ritual takes place with the dead body lying on his own bed. When they have the money they buy water buffalos, pigs and organize a big party that can last for weeks. The animals will keep company to the dead person in the other side so the more money they have, the more animals and the better company the dead person will have in the afterlife.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">And many of you (including me) will think that it would be much better to save all this money for the living ones. I agree but they won't. It's a tradition that has survived for centuries and they won't change it now. What a waste!</span></div>
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El problema és que normalment, aquests ritus funeraris tenen lloc a l'agost. Estem fora de temporada com qui diu. Tanmateix, som afortunats i la cerimònia més gran de l'any està a punt de començar al poble de Sereale. Es sacrificaran uns 300 búfals en total, més porcs, pollastres, i segurament mil animalons més. Un senyor molt ric va morir fa un any i ja està preparat per al seu llarg viatge. Tenim una sort que, sens dubte, ens mereixem, hehehe. Un búfal normal costa uns 2 mil euros però un búfal blanc, albino, costa uns 30 mil!!! I en maten uns quants... aquests tenen pasta per un tub!</div>
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Dormim a Rantepao i a la nit anem a celebrar el nadal tots 3 amb unes cervesetes, un bon sopar i una mica de música local en directe. Per Sant Esteve anirem a veure la cerimònia.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Our main concern is that the rites in the region of Tana Toraja usually take place in August. Anyway, we are very lucky and the biggest ceremony of the year is about to start in the small village of Sereale. They will sacrify about 300 water buffalos, pigs, chikens and any other animal that could be eaten. A very rich man was dead one year ago and the stars say it's time to go. We are very lucky! A regular buffalo costs around 2 thousand euros but a white one, albino, costs around 30 thousand euros! And they will kill some of them... </span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We sleep in the town of Rantepao and with Susana and Wilco we go celebrate our Christmas with a couple of beers, a good dinner and local live music. On Boxing day we'll go to see the ceremony.</span></div>
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Lloguem unes motos i un guia que ens du en aquests poblet penjat a la muntanya per viure un dia que perdurarà en la nostra memòria fins ens toqui a nosaltres fer el viatge. Arribem i enganxem la lluita de galls a la meitat. Wow, això promet! Som testimonis de una desena de lluites de galls i 4 lluites de búfals. Mai no havia vist dos galls lluitar però n'havia sentit a parlar en varis països. Els posen una navalla lligada als tormells perquè el combat sigui més curt i vegem més sang! I els búfals, és impressionant lo grans que són i com s'embesteixen amb les seves banyes! S'ha d'anar en compte un búfal no vingui corrent en la teva direcció. Llavors tocaria córrer de valent i amagar-se en algun lloc elevat. Les apostes són elevades, centenars d'euros són apostats a cada combat, la gent és rica. La família d'aquest senyor ha vingut de tot arreu: Java, Papua, Sumatra, Filipines... En Wilco guanya 5 euros amb les apostes!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We rent some motorbikes and a guide that will take us to this small village up at the mountains to live an exerience that will stay in our memories until it's our time to do the travel to the other side. We arrive just in time to see the last part of a cock fight. Wow, that's bloody! I like it! We are witnesess of ten more fights between cockrills and also between buffalos. It's the first time I can witness a cock fight and it's impressive! They fight with a blade tied to their legs so the fight is shorter and we can see more blood! The buffalos are huge and the fights are amazing hitting each other with their huge boddies and horns. It's important to be careful just in case a buffalos comes running towards your direction. Then you have to start running like crazy and climb to one of the balconies. The bets are high. People bet around some hundreds euros at every fight. The family of the dead man is rich and they come from several places like Papua or Java just for the ceremony. Wilco wins 5 euros betting!</span></div>
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Arriba l'hora de veure sang. Sang, fetge i excrements... una barreja que mareja. Em col·loco ben a prop, no em vull perdre el més mínim detall. Senzillament els lliguen les cames en una estaca clavada al terra i els fan un tall al coll amb un ganivet. Comença a rajar sang, sang i sang. El món es torna vermell mentre el pobre búfal es dessagna no sense lluitar amb furia els seus darrers moments de vida. Salta, es remolca, crida, defeca. La vida s'apaga poc a poc als seus ulls. Massa a poc a poc. Els qui tenen un tall profun moren en menys de 5 minuts. Els qui no tenen tanta sort, tarden entre 10 i 15 minuts en morir. L'espectacle és colpidor però al mateix temps apassionant. Jo gravo en video tots els sacrificis mentre en Wilco fa les fotos excel·lents que podeu veure. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">It's time to see blood, a lot of blood but also crap... a smelly sickening mixture. I go very close from the sacrifice place. I have always dreamt of being here and I don't want to miss a sigle detail. They are tied to some woods and their throats are opened with a long knife. The blood doesn't stop flowing. The buffalo dies slowly and painfully bleeding for minutes. It doesn't give up the fight to stay alive. It jumps, it screams, it crawls in its own blood and shit until life leave its dead eyes. The show is shocking and exciting at the same time. The excitement of being there doesn't disapear from me. I keep smiling all the time happy to be there. I do the filming and Wilco takes the amazing pictures you can see. Better than National Geographic!!!</span></div>
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Han decidit matar 6 búfals aquell dia, només 6 dels 300 que mataran en 15 dies de festes i celebracions. Un d'ells, mentre es revolca de dolor i sufriment, ens esquitxa a tots amb la seva sang. Jo estava molt a prop, potser a 3 metres del búfal. Encara avui quan escric aquestes línies (mes de febrer), per més que renti la roba d'aquell dia, la sang no se'n va. A part d'això, també m'esquitxa les cames i els braços. Un cop morts, els treuen la pell i comencen a tallar a troços mentre els nens riuen i fan fotos pel voltant.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">They have decided to kill only 6 buffalos today over the 300 they will kill during the next 15 days of celebration. One of them splashes some blood direct from its throat over us. I was very close, maybe 3 meters from the buffalo. Still today, 2 months later I still have the blood stains on my pants and T-shirt that can't be cleaned by the washing machine. I also had blood on my legs and arms. Bloody! Once deads, they are skinned and cuts in pieces while children play around and take fotos.</span></div>
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La olor de la barreja de sang i excrements es fa més intensa a mesura que van sacrificant els animals. La bassa de sang al terra també es fa més gran. Tenim temps de donar el pèsam a la família, beure unes pastes i cafè i fer centenars de fotos. Però tant de búfal ens fa venir gana! Portem unes hores drets i sense menjar. Agafem les motos i anem a explorar els poblets de les muntanyes que ens mostren paisatges bellíssims de cases tradicionals i camps d'arròs. Per a mi, els més bonics de Indonèsia fins a dia d'avui.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The smell of blood and excrements increases at every buffalo killed at the field. The pool of blood is also bigger. After the sacrifice we have time to offer the family our condolences, have some snacks and take hundreds of fotos. I always get hungry when I see so much animals and food! We've been some hours standing without eating. We ride our motorbikes and we go exploring the small villages and the rices terraces that show us some incredible landscapes. For me these are the best ones in Indonesia so far.</span></div>
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El dia següent, explorem els pobles de la part sud. Es tracta d'uns pobles tradicionals ben conservats i també unes coves molt especials. A l'interior i exterior d'aquestes coves hi trobem ni més ni menys que taüts i esquelets, molts esquelets! Així doncs, una vegada el difunt és lliure d'anar al més enllà després de la cerimonia, la família no enterra a ningú, sinó que l'introdueix a la cova familiar. Aquestes coves es poden visitar. Ossos i més ossos, calaveres, ataúts trencats i aranyes formen part del paisatge.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The day after we explore the villages in the south. We visit some traditional villages that are very well preserved and some very special caves. Inside those caves we can find coffins and many skeletons! So for the people of Tana Toraja, when the ceremony is done, they put the body of the dead person in the family's cave. We can visit those caves and are amazing. So many bones everywhere! Broken coffins, skulls and spiders are what we can see inside.</span></div>
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És la típica excursió que fas amb l'escola. En trobem vàries i tots es volen fer fotos amb nosaltres, normal, per alguna cosa som els més guapos! Crec que es fan més fotos amb nosaltres que amb les calaveres. Tenen gust per les coses bones!</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">This seems to be the tipical school excursion students can do. We meet some different classes and everybody want to have fotos with us. Of course! We are so cute! I feel like a superstar cause they take more fotos of us than of the skulls.</span></div>
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Lamentablement, el somni s'ha acabat. Hem viscut una experiència única! És extraordinari poder ser testimoni d'una de les cerimònies funeràries més espectaculars que es poden veure avui en dia. Ha sigut com estar dins del reportatge de la tele.</div>
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Passem un dia de pau i tranquil·litat al llac Poso, menjant peix al grill, fent fotos i preparant-nos per a la propera aventura: les illes Togean i Bunaken al nord de Sulawesi. </div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Sadly, the dream is over. We have lived a unique experience in Tana Toraja. I believe it is extraordinary to witness one of the most amazing funerary ceremonies we can see today.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">We spend a day chilling out next to lake Poso eating grilled fish, taking more fotos and getting ready for our next adventure: the Togean islands and Bunaken, north of Sulawesi.</span></div>
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Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-87041708811433079632012-02-09T13:32:00.002+01:002012-05-21T15:54:54.152+02:00Timor, la joia de l'est<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Després d'uns mesos a Indonesia on no vaig estar sol ni un minut, estava convençut que la meva aventura a Timor Leste seria ben diferent. Qui viatja a Timor? Poca gent, de ben segur. La veritat és que sentia la necessitat de viatjar sol uns dies, tenir el meu espai, reflexionar sobre tot el què em preocupa (bàsicament la meva tornada a Europa el juliol), planejar els meus propers mesos per Àsia... M'equivocava. Ja dic jo que Mai no caminaré sol i així és. A l'aeroport de Bali conec a una noia noruega, ben rossa i simpàtica, que agafa el mateix vol que jo i s'allotja al mateix lloc que jo. Conectem de seguida i m'explica que ella està viatjant per tot el món amb l'objectiu de completar la llista de països de les Nacions Unides. En porta uns 130 i en els propers mesos arribarà als 170.</div>
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Timor Leste és un país amb poc turisme i una antiga colònia portuguesa. A més, les incessants guerres amb els seus veïns indonesis han practicament destrossat el país.Les darreres no fa ni 3 anys. Timor (o Timur) significa Est en l'idioma indonesi. I Leste significa Est en portuguès. Així que el nom del país és Est Est i ocupa el costat Est de la illa de Timor.</div>
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Quan arribem a Dili, la capital, de seguida em crida la atenció que tinc el sentiment d'estar a l'Àfrica. País més pobre que la resta dels països asiàtics, ple de bases, contenidors i transports de les Nacions Unides, carrers bruts, gent negra, ningú no parla anglès... potser cap d'aquestes coses són específiques d'Àfrica però l'ambient que es respira sí. M'encanta!!!</div>
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Acompanyat de la Lene, la noia noruega, passem uns dies a Dili visitant la ciutat i en JC, una estàtua de Jesús al final d'un bonic passeig per la platja. Una imatge molt similar a la que podem trobar a Cristo de Corcovado a Rio de Janeiro. També intento aconseguir un visat per passar a Indonèsia per carretera. Però ja vaig dir que les autoritats d'aquest país són una colla d'ineptes sense cap mena de sentit comú. Em demanen per un visat d'un mes, una carta d'invitació, una foto amb fons vermell (que només es pot aconseguir a un lloc i sempre està tancat), fer cua des de les 5 de la matinada, un pagar una abusiva quantitat de dòlars americans. És molt més fàcil i barat volar de nou a Bali i aconseguir un visat directament a l'aeroport. Ràbia continguda. Colla d'inútils!</div>
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La Lene, que només ha vingut a Timor per ratllar-lo de la llista de països, marxa al cap de pocs dies mentre que jo decideixo que val la pena visitar l'est del país. Després de 8 hores en busos destartalats i carreteres horroroses, arribo a Los Palos, un poble on conec un noi que em proposa d'anar a dormir a casa d'ell, que viu amb els seus avis. El seu pare va marxar fa molt de temps a Anglaterra i poques notícies rep d'ell. Accepto i em porta a un petit poblet a les afores, envoltat de camps, porcs, palmeres, camins de terra i bicicletes. M'encanta!!! Ja deia jo que s'essemblava a l'Àfrica. Em donen de menjar, de beure i no accepten ni un sol dòlar (la moneda de Tmor és el dòlar americà).</div>
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Com a anècdota, us explicaré que surto del labavo, fosc i humit, i em trobo cara a cara amb un porc a la sala d'estar. Em mira al ulls i li retorno la mirada. S'escapa i s'amaga fins que no he sortit del mig. Divertidíssim. I quan no és el porc, són els aneguets acompanyats de la mama. Fantàstic.</div>
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L'endemà surto ben d'hora per anar a Tutuala Beach. Espero 2 hores que vingui algun bus però res de res. Quan finalment decideixo canviar de rumb, un jeep amb voluntaris australians em recull per portar-me fins a la meva destinació tan desitjada mitjançant una carretera horrorosa. Necessitem una hora i mitja per fer 8 quilòmetres. Ells només hi van a passar el dia i jo sóc l'únic turista de la zona així que sembla que finalment podré passa un parell de dies en solitari. Molt solitari! No hi ha ningú. Només els empleats de l'hostal que no parlen ni anglès ni portuguès i els pescadors de la zona. Fantàstic!</div>
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Tothom ve a Tutuala Beach per visitar Jaco island, una illa deserta, paradisiaca, amb aigües blaves i transparents. Sembla l'indret més increïble de la terra. I només és per a mi! Sabeu allò que et pregunten què t'emportaries en una illa deserta? Doncs parlen d'aquesta illa. El paradís. Realment és a la fi del món. Lluny de tot i de tothom. Pocs turistes venen aquí per la dificultat que té arribar-hi, però val la pena. Es converteix en un dels meus llocs preferits de la meva volta el món.</div>
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Arribava el moment de pujar els 8 quilòmetres de carretera de pedres pel me compte. No hi han altres turistes a la vista. Em toca pujar a peu, dues hores, sota un sol que crema des de les 8 del matí. Mentre pujo escoltant música heavy que em dóna ànims i forces per caminar a un bon ritme pico un roc sense voler i em comença a rajar sang al dit gros del peu. Ni tansols paro. La sang tampoc para de rajar durant 10 minuts i el peu se m'enganxa a la sandàlia degut a la sang. La vida és dura però jo estic a Timor!!! Magnífic.</div>
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Quan menys m'ho espero i estic a punt d'arribar a dalt, un jeep quasi m'atropella perquè no sentia que vingués degut a la música que escoltava. El paro desesperat i amb cara de cansament i llàstima els demano que em portin. S'ho pensen però accepten. Un cop dins, tot són rialles i bones maneres. Una parella de biòlegs americans, de Hawai, que fan recerca a Timor. Ell m'explica que quan estudiava a la universitat va tenir de professor al Lluís Companys!!! President de la Generalitat a l'exili. I endevineu quina matèria ensenyava? Llengüa castellana.</div>
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Em deixen a un encreuament i allí espero a un altre cotxe que em porti cap a Baucau. No passen ni 2 segons que paro a un cotxe amb un conductor que porta una samarreta del Barça! Intercanviem samarretes i ens fem unes fotos. Ell està entusiasmat i jo estic content que em porti. Per cert, Àsia és del Barça. Una gran majoria de la població adora el Barça. Porten samarretes i es saben tots els jugadors. Pocs seguidors del Madrid però bastants dels equips anglesos que és el futbol que miren més sovint a la tele degut als horaris. Considero que el Barça m'hauria de regalar samarretes gratuïtes per la promoció!</div>
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A Baucau em trobo cara a cara amb els simpàtics australians que em van baixar a Tutuala Beach! L'endemà van cap a Dili i em proposen de portar-me. Fantàstic!!! A més, conec en Carl, galès, amb qui comparteixo un excel·lent sopar a la famosa Posada Rosa. Curri i cervesa i molt bona conversa. És ell qui em diu que he d'anar a Sipadan (Malasia) a bucejar, que no m´ho puc perdre, que és la seva millor experiència a sota l'aigüa. Aquí començo a reconsiderar la meva ruta...</div>
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Tornada a Dili, a l'hostal on trobo vells amics, alemanys, australians, francesos, portuguesos i en Carl. Em sento com a casa. Envoltat de cares conegudes i dones guapes. Ens ho passem bé però estic trist. Trist que l'endemà deixaré Timor, un país que m'ha agradat més del què m'esperava. M'ha sorprès. Ja sabeu, quan no es tenen expectatives, tot surt molt millor. Timor ha superat en escreix les meves expectatives. Gent maca, aventura a cada cantonada, pocs turistes, males carreteres, gent penjant de les portes de les camionetes mig destroçades, auto-estop, i Jaco island, una illa que m'ha marcat per sempre. Torno a Indonèsia, a Sulawesi. Un somni fet realitat!</div>
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Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-41554003401245404332012-01-27T09:55:00.001+01:002012-05-21T15:55:47.798+02:00Les coses no són el què eren, Bali i Lombok<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">En Javier, l'Alfonso
i jo abandonem la poblada illa de Java per a descobrir la... poblada illa de
Bali. Bali l'arxifamosa. Bali la cultural. Bali la hinduïsta. Bali la turística.
Tothom qui ha estat a Indonesia ha estat a Bali. Avions plens d'australians
paren aquí perquè el aussies puguin beure fins a caure rodons. Turistes de tot
el món venen a Bali a descobrir els encants de l'illa. Jo diria que hi ha deu
vegades més de turistes a Bali que a qualsevol altre illa d'Indonesia. Bali és
LA destinació.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Vam veure 3 parts
diferents de Bali: Lovina, un poble coster al nord amb una platja que no
convida al bany, Ubud, una ciutat cara envoltada de terraces d'arròs
lamentablement seques que no mostren tota la seva esplendor, i Sanur, un altre
poble de costa amb una platja de 4 quilòmetres força interessant. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">He de confessar que
Bali em va decepcionar una mica. La meva amiga Beth me'n va explicar meravelles
i jo tenia les meves expectatives altíssimes. I sí, puc veure com Bali pot
meravellar a la gent però després de sentir moltes opinions de gent que ha
vingut a Bali els darrers 40 anys, l'illa està patint un canvi molt sobtat.
Segurament la Beth va conèixer Bali en una altre època. Ja no és el què era.
Està perdent poc a poc la seva màgia. Sí, la cultura encara hi és, els temples
hinduïstes, les platges, la gent, els llacs, les muntanyes... però per a mi ( i
per a molta altra gent decepcionada amb Bali) l'illa està superpoblada, hi ha
massa turistes que venen a crear un turisme de "borrego": festa,
alcohol, drogues, prostitució, brutícia... i tots venen amb les butxaques
plenes de calés.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Els diners del
turista fa que els locals només els interessi guanyar calés sense importar el
servei, si el client està satisfet, si s'embruta tot, si destruixen el seu
propi ecosistema... se'n foten de tot. De TOT. Només volen els diners i res més
no importa. No tenen la educació correcte respecte del turisme. Ningú no els ha
ensenyat que si ho destruixen tot, si tot està brut, si trenquen els corals, si
els preus són abusius, si la gent és antipàtica, si donen un mal servei, si
està tot sobreexplotat amb resorts, arribarà un dia en el qual els turistes no
vindran. Trobaran una altre petit paradís i Bali i Lombok cauran en l'oblit etern. Viuen
el present i el futur no té cap importància. Si avui poden exprimir al màxim
els turistes, ho fan perquè no existeix el demà.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">M'agraden els llocs
tranquils, amb viatgers més que amb turistes maleducats, gent més honesta i simpàtica.
Bali ho està perdent a marxes forçades i em sap molt de greu no haver conegut
Bali 10 anys abans. De ben segur devia ser una illa especial. Potser part de la
culpa també la té la popularitat de "Eat, Pray, Love". Molta gent,
sobretot dones, va a Bali a trobar un guru que l'ajudi en la seva felicitat.
Ells, naturalment, se n'aprofiten tant com poden de les blanques inocents
carregades diners buscant-se a sí mateixes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Tanmateix, no tot és
dolent a Bali. Ho vam disfrutar. Vam llogar una moto per explorar la regió,
veure llacs, cascades, temples... A dins d'un dels llacs hi ha un temple
hinduïsta molt fotogènic. Els paisatges són bonics i la companyia fantàstica.
Anem a la Monkey forest, a passejar pels camps d'arròs i a l'espectacle de
música i dansa tradicional.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Aquí també trobo a la
Susana, una noia de Bilbao que està viatjant uns mesos per Àsia. Amb ella
segueixo el meu viatge quan el meus amics Javier i Alfonso marxen ràpidament
cap a Lombok degut al temps limitat que tenen abans de tornar a casa.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Una part maca de la
història és el retrobament molt esperat amb la Nadine i en Coen!!! Sopem junts,
riem i recordem vells temps. Llàstima
que ens haguem de separar de nou. Ha sigut un retrobament fugaç. L'endemà, els
dos se'n van cap a Lombok. Nosaltres encara ens quedem un parell de dies
voltant per Ubud fent el manta al voltant de la piscina.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">El dia de deixar Bali
arriba i la Susana i jo decidim anar cap a Lombok, concretament a les Gilis.
Pels qui no les coneguin, són unes illes famoses per la seva bellesa i els
submarinisme. Són 3 illes, Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno i Gili Air, i cadascuna té
una particularitat. Una està plena de turistes borratxos, gent maleducada i
preus abusius (per variar). La segona és la dels grans resorts i parelletes en
lluna de mel, molt maca. La tercera i la meva preferida, és més tranquil·la,
barata i acollidora. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Passem 10 dies a les
illes llegint, passejant, fent esnorkelling buscant tortugues i centenars de
peixos de colors, estirats en alguna hamaca mirant la vida passar i sentir-me
una persona molt afortunada. Penso en el què estic fent i en el què em queda,
en la sort que tinc, en quina experiència més increïble estic vivint. En 7
mesos estaré a casa, sense diners, sense feina en un país en crisi, sense saber
quin serà el meu futur, però amb la companyi i el suport de la meva família que
és fantàstica, els meus amics que ja tinc ganes d'abraçar i el menjar mediterrà
(pel qual mataria ara mateix).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">A Gili Trawangan,
illa de la festa, locals i turistes van tot el dia flipats amb alcohol i
drogues, la més original són famosos bolets magics que et fan tenir
al·lucinacions, diuen. És com Lloret de Mar. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">A mi se m'acaba el
visat. Les ganes de les autoritats immigratòries indoneses de posar les coses
difícils als turistes fan que hagi d'abandonar el país. Si fa uns anys
s'obtenien 2 mesos de forma gratuïta, ara només obtens un mes per 25 dòlars i
només es pot extendre una sola vegada. Els tràmits per a la extensió tarden de
3 a 5 dies depenent de la ciutat i et demanen mil coses estúpides. Jo, que ja
he extès el meu visat una vegada estic obligat a sortir del país o de sobornar
les autoritats amb uns 100 euros. La meva el·lecció és anar a Timor Oriental.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Els qui hagueu estat
a Bali i a Lombok potser us estranyi que hagi parlat malament d'aquestes dues
illes i segurament tingueu raó. No els he donat suficient temps. Malauradament,
la falta de temps disponible (degut al visat) i de motivació (degut a l'ambient
que he vist) em treuen les ganes d'explorar-les més. L'excés de turisme fa que
el respecte entre locals i visitants es perdi i s'arribin a situacions
increïbles que prefereixo no recordar aquí. Només diré que en Coen quasi arriba
a les mans amb un local que els va insultar per no voler l'habitació que els
havia ensenyat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">No és per xulejar
però en el meu viatge he vist illes molt més maques i verges, gent més amable i
somrient, preus més assequibles i menys turístiques. Està clar que no tenen ni
la cultura ni la història que té Bali, que és magnífica, però considero que es
tracta d'un paradís que s'està ensorrant poc a poc. Una llàstima. Imagino que
arribarà un dia que la gent deixarà d'anar-hi i es tornarà a veure un equilibri
positiu. Fins llavors evitaré la majestuosa illa de Bali. Ens veiem a Timor.</span></div>
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-22857173425814105572012-01-09T14:40:00.000+01:002012-05-21T15:57:41.058+02:00Volcans i temples en una illa massificada, Java<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Jakarta era la meva
porta d'entrada a Java, una illa amb 120 milions de persones i 40 volcans, la
majoria actius. Només havia sentit coses dolentes de la capital d'Indonèsia i
no esperava cap sorpresa. La ciutat és gigantesca i té més de 10 milions de
persones que surten al carrer tots alhora per fer soroll, contaminar,
atropellar turistes i crear uns problemes de transit brutals. Els hostals són
cars i asquerosos, els turistes van i venen. Uns només veuen les habitacions,
el tràfic i el caos i marxen esparitats cap a un indret més tranquil.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre;"></span></span><br />
<a name='more'></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre;"></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0in; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 13px; white-space: pre;"><span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Però nosaltres som massoquistes. Ens agrada patir les incomoditats d'aquesta gran ciutat i ens hi
quedem uns dies. La raó és ben senzilla. En Coen coneix a una noia a Jakarta,
una noia que fa uns 5 anys que no veu i que viu aquí amb el seu marit, en una
de les millors zones de la ciutat. Això ja sona millor, no? Doncs viu en un
gueto per a gent rica, diplomàtics i homes de negoci. La urbanització té spa,
gimnàs, piscina, arbres i silenci. Sembla que estiguem a fora de la ciutat.<o:p></o:p></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">No dormim aquí però
venim de visita a fer unes copes i a sopar. La noia, d'origen peruà ens prepara
la beguda nacional del seu país, el Pisco Sour, que jo vaig tenir el plaer de
degustar en diferents ocasions a Amèrica del Sud. Per sopar ens van portar a un
restaurant on un holandès que havia viscut a espanya ens portava per beure
Tinto de Verano!!! Quina il·lusió!!! Això sí que no m'ho esperava. Sorpresa
sorpresa!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">El segon dia que ens
vam veure vam gaudir de la piscina mentre en Coen es recuperava d'una ressaca
monumental. De nit, ens van convidar a sopar i vam anar a la zona pija de
Jakarta a prop d'on viuen és clar.Allà vam gaudir d'un dels millors àpats que he
provat al continent en un restaurant belga. Tots els clients eren expatriats o
rics homes de negocis. Després vam anar de copes en alguns dels bars més de
moda de la ciutat, amb el nostre xofer que ens duia amunt i avall... és clar.
Al final, Jakarta m'havia donat la sorpresa que no m'esperava tenir.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Passejar per la
ciutat també va ser una experiència interessant on quasi ens atropellen unes 50
vegades degut a l'absència total de passos de vianants. Es tracta d'una ciutat
destinada exclusivament als cotxes... que a vegades només es mouen 50 metres en
dues hores. Vam visitar la mesquita més gran del continent, amb capacitat per a
200.000 persones. La tercera més gran del món segons ens va dir el guia. Només
arribar a la mesquita ens vam autoconvidar a una visita guiada d'uns estudiants
que es van passar una hora fent-se fotos amb nosaltres. Per cert, la mesquita
està situada just al davant de la catedral. Una visió força divertida. A veure
quina fa més soroll!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">També vam visitar el
centre històric de la ciutat on ens vam tornar a sentir com estrelles de rock
amb desenes de persones fent-se fotos amb nosaltres i demanant entrevistes pels
seus deures de la seva escola. d'allà ens vam dirigir cap al nord de la ciutat
on vam descobrir les faveles envoltades de canals plens de brutícia i carrers
estrets. Tanmateix, la gent ens saludava i els nens ens somrien mentre deien el
seu famós "hello misteerrrrr". Fins i tot, una mare anava dient
"heavy, heavy" mentre feiem fotos a un grup de nens i aquests ens
ensenyaven les banyes típiques del Heavy Metal. Fantàstic! Indonesia és un país
rocker amb un munt de gent amb samarretes negres. A més, tenen un grup de punk
anomenat "Superman is dead" que omple estadis sencers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">En Coen va sortir de
festa una nit a la famosa discoteca Stadium, de 4 pisos. A part de diferents
sales de ball, en un dels pisos hi podies trobar sales de massatges i una
filera de noies guapes (segons em van dir, és clar). Una urna amb tot de
condons, n'agafes un, escolleixes una noia, pagues uns 30 euros, i et vas a fer
un massatget. A un altre pis, hi podem trobar el mateix però amb karaoke. Entre
taxis, la entrada i massa cervesa, en Coen es va gastar aquell dia el
pressupost de 3 dies. I bé, com ja m'ho esperava i no volia patir la horrorosa
música tecno, vaig decidir no anar-hi. Llàstima!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Un tren nocturn ens
duria a Yogyakarta on els hostals tenen molt més bona pinta. Pel mateix preu
teníem una habitació neta i piscina. A part de visitar la ciutat, el palau del
marajà, el palau de l'aigüa, un mercat d'animals (amb ratpanats, serps,
llangardaixos, cucs i ocells) aviat va estar tot vist. Només calia que en
Javier i l'Alfonso arrivessin a Jakarta provinents de Dubai. Uns amics
espanyols que venien a visitar-me durant uns 10 dies.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Em van portar xoriço
i llonganissa! El millor regal que em podien fer. No sabeu com trobo a faltar
el menjar de casa. Seria capaç de plorar pensant amb uns troços de pernil
salat. Ara mateix, alço el cap, estic escrivint des d'un petit paradís (les
illes Togean al nord de Sulawesi) i malgrat ser en un lloc privilegiat, trobo
MOLT a faltar el menjar mediterrà. No ho puc evitar. Amb l'arribada dels meus
amics en Coen i jo ens separàvem. Ell seguia el seu camí cap a Bali i jo em
quedava uns dies més a Java. Uns venen i els altres se'n van. Però no patiu que
segur que en Coen i jo ens tornarem a trobar... per casualitat!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Amb en Javier i
l'Alfonso, vam visitar els temples més famosos de Java: Borobudur que és el
temple budista més gran del món i Prambanan que és hinduísta. Tots dos molt
interessants encara que hi havia massa turistes i tots es volien fer fotos amb
nosaltres. Jo fins i tot vaig lligar amb una noia que em feia fotos des de
totes les bandes del temple. Vam menjar cobra i pitó abans de deixar Yogyakarta
i ens vam dirigir al famós volcà Bromo. Durant l'interminable viatge, vam podem
experimentar l'altíssima densitat de l'illa. Vam tardar 10 hores per fer uns
300 km degut al transit i en cap moment vam deixar la ciutat. Sempre hi havien
cases, contaminació, cotxes escandalosos, motorites suicides... un viatge
esgotador sense veure ni un centímetre de verd. Vam aprofitar per jugar al
trivial en un ipad, als escacs on en Javier quasi es posa a plorar quan li vaig
guanyar 3 partides seguides i al joc dels països. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">El Bromo va estar bé
però sense ser res d'extraordinari. El millor va ser estar en un poblet
envoltats de naturalesa, per fi. El pitjor són les desenes de turistes donant
empentes per tenir un espai a la cima. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Mil hores més tard
dins d'una camioneta, vam arribar al volcà Ijen, molt més interessant. Dues
hores per pujar i veure el espectacular paisatge de les xemeneies vomitant
sofre. De camí a la cima i al cràter et creues amb els treballadors, uns 300 en
total, que han de pujar uns 70 kilos de sofre del cràter i després baixar-lo
fins al camió. Una feina horrorosa. Sembla que visquin a la edat de pedra. Per
ajudar-los en la seva tasca no utilitzen cap invent modern, ni carretons, ni
cordes, ni cotxes, ni tansols la roda. tot a força de carregar el pes a les
espatlles. Impressionant. No em queixaré mai més de la meva feina. Paraula de
motxil·lero!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">I el paisatge del
cràter és al·lucinant. A part de les xemeneies, els treballadors i les
muntanyes, també hi ha un llac d'àcird sulfúric! Diu la llegenda que un turista
francès hi va entrar i no en va sortir... quins acudits! La experiència ens va
marcar per uns dies i ens costava deixar de parlar del què havíem vist. He de
dir que vam tenir molta sort amb la climatologia que ens va ajudar a veure-ho
tot de forma perfecta.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Després de patir la
falta d'aire fresc en la illa més poblada del món, havia arribat el dia de
gaudir una mica de platja i tranquilitat. Bali era el nostre proper pas i
teníem ganes d'un canvi... urgentment! Ens veiem a Bali!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-41461321769394240872011-12-24T04:59:00.000+01:002012-05-21T16:19:56.311+02:00Allahu Akbar, Sumatra part 2Primer de tot, us volia desitjar a tots vosaltres els meus millors desitjos en aquests dies tan especials. Bé, són especials per la senzilla raó que no hem d'anar a treballar i podem estar a casa estirat al sofà durant tot el dia, menjar fins afartar-nos o perquè ens reunim amb la família que feia un temps que no vèiem. Sigui per la raó que sigui, Bon nadal, bones festes i feliç... 2012!!! Jo no sé on passaré aquest nadal. A diferència dels dos anys anteriors, aquest any només sé el nom de l'enorme illa en la qual estaré: Sulawesi. No sé si estaré sol o acompanyat. El que sí sé del cert, és que trobaré a faltar la meva família i els seus fantàstics dinars i sopars!<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">En Coen i jo
arribariem a Tuk Tuk a la vora del llac Toba cap a la tarda. De camí, la
radiofonia del ferri ens donaria la benvinguda amb la horrorosa cançó del
Aserejé, que per més Inri van posar dues vegades! Quina tortura. Però a qui se
li acudeix posat les Ketchup a Indonèsia??? En canvi, sembla que Tuk Tuk és un
poblet fantàstic per descansar uns dies. Aquí vam conèixer més gent,
majoritàriament holandesos, amb els quals vam passar bona part de la nostra
estada.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">A part de llegir i
fer panxing, passejar per la península en la qual està situada Tuk Tuk és
interessant. El paisatge és maco i les cases d'estil batak donen una ambient
especial a l'indret. Un dels dies vam decidir d'agafar unes motos i anar a
explorar l'illa. Llogar una moto un dia costa uns 4 euros. Jo estava
escagarrinat! Mai no he conduit una moto i sempre m'han fet por. Als meus 32
anys va arribar el dia en què havia de superar aquesta fòbia. A més, tenia un
problema afegit. Després d'estar viatjant 2 anys i pagar una assegurança de
viatge de més de 700 euros anuals i no utilitzar-la, he decidit no renovar-la.
Per tant, ja porto 2 mesos viatjant sense cap tipus d'assegurança. Agafar una
moto a Àsia, per la primera vegada en la meva vida, sense assegurança... no
semblava una idea gaire intel·ligent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Tanmateix, qui no
s'arrisca no pisca! M'haurieu d'haver vist pilotant aquell bòlit a més de... 40
per hora!!! Va ser una experiència divertídissima i bé, encara estic viu, no?
Em va encantar! Vam anar a veure els poblets dels voltants, les cases batak i
unes aigües termals. La resta dels dies me'ls passaria jugant a ping-pong amb
la Gesa (alemanya) o al billar amb en Coen. Uns dies genials en un llac de
muntanya.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">D'allà vam seguir al
sud gràcies a un viatge nocturn terrorífic en autocar. Super incòmode, amb
goteres, mala carretera, soroll i fum! Sabeu que a Indonèsia es por fumar a TOT
arreu? Inclosos tots els transports públics. La part positiva d'això, si se'n
pot trobar alguna, és que els cigarrets indonesis no fan pudor de tabac sinó
d'herbes aromàtiques. A veure, que és molest igualment però no tant com el
tabac que tots conèixem. I com el tabac és tan barat en aquest país, tothom
fuma, encara que sigui en un autocar i a les 4 de la matinada.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Una pluja intensa ens
donava la benvinguda a Bukittinggi, ciutat escollida per estar uns dies mentre
extendíem el visat 30 dies més. Va ser una ciutat interessant a visitar però la
pluja no va donar treva. Allà vam conèixer a molts estudiants locals que ens
volíen fer entrevistes en anglès. Es tracta dels deures que els seus profes
d'anglès els donen a fer. Els estudiants et graven i et fan fotos per a
l'entrevista i quan acaben et demanen l'email per afegir-te al facebook i
presumir d'amics blancs davant dels seus amics.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">La gent és molt
amable i sempre els dic que sí quan em demanen una entrevista. M'encanta la
gent de Sumatra. Allà on vagis tots es volen fer fotos amb nosaltres. Ni en
Brad Pitt! A més et diuen "you are very hansome!" i jo els contesto
"I know my friend, I know!" hahahaha. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Aquests dies també
vam visitar unes coves fetes pels japonesos durant la segona guerra mundial. De
fet, van ser els esclaus de Indonesia que van morir foradant túnels a les
ordres dels japonesos. El mercat del poble també va ser divertit. Allà éren les
avies que es volien fer fotos amb nosaltres. Sumatra és una illa magnífica que
no puc deixar de recomanar. I el menjar és boníssim! El rendang, típic d'aquí
és deliciós. Una carn que han deixat secar durant dies amb suc de coco, crec,
unes espècies picants i acompanyat d'arròs. En menjàvem cada dia!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Idul Adha és una festa
islàmica que celebra la generositat dels rics per ajudar al pobres. Ens vam
autoconvidar en la cerimònia que tenia lloc a prop del nostre hostal. Primer,
van tots a resar a la mesquita i després van a una madrassa, que és una escola
religiosa musulmana. I allà, al pati de l'escola va començar la escavatxina.
Unes dos-centes persones estaven presencian aquesta festa, nens, àvies, bebès,
adults i el Imam que pronunciava unes paraules abans que l'especialista li
tallés el coll a una vaca amb un ganivet que havia estat afilant prèviament. El
coll li queia enrera mentre litres de sang rajàven amb força. L'animal encara
donava les darreres patades i feia els darrers crits abans de morir. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">L'espectacle va ser
colpidor. 11 vaques van ser sacrificades al pati d'una escola. Desenes de nens
i nenes reien i miràven fixament mentre els més grans feien fotos amb els seus
mòbils. Alguns fins i tot jugàven amb els ulls morts dels caps tallats de les
vaques. Van tardar unes 6 hores a degollar, treure la pell, tallar les diferents
parts de la vaca, i posar-lo en bossetes. Cada vaca costa uns 800 euros que les
famílies riques paguen, 6 famílies es reparteixen el cost d'una vaca. Abans que
l'animal mori, un representant de cada família toca la vaca quan ja està al
terra esperant la seva hora, i li desitja un bon camí al més enllà tot
donant-li gràcies per la seva carn. La carn es reparteix entre totes les
famílies del poble en racions de 1 quilo per família o per persona segons la
quantitat que en tinguin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Padang seria la nostra
darrera ciutat a Sumatra ja que les inundacions més al sud de Sumatra no ens
deixàven baixar més. Padang està situat a la costa. La platja no és genial però
el paisatge sí. A més allà vam conèixer la Pipin i el seu cosí. Ella estudiava
anglès a la universitat i com totes les noies musulmanes, vestia amb jilbab, el
mocador que tapa el cabell. Se la veia una noia guapa i divertida, tenia un bon
anglès i era llesta. Resum, una noia molt maca i eixerida. El primer dia li vam
demanar que es tragués el jilbab, cosa que no va voler fer però ens va ensenyar
una foto seva sense el mocador.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">L'endemà els vam
tornar a trobar i ella anava sense vel i amb texans! Semblava una altra
persona. Ho podeu comparar les dues darreres fotos que penjo. Indonesia és prou
moderat com per permetre a les dones musulmanes portar el jilbab només si elles
volen. Tanmateix, no els demanis gaires coses més. La Pipin ens va explicar
entre riures tímids que fer-se un petó, pecat, donar-se la mà, pecat, entrar en
una església, pecat, qualsevol cosa, pecat. Bé, això depèn molt del indret ja
que ella mateixa deia que altres illes d'Indonesia, la gent feia més el que
volia... Sumatra era una altra història.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">I el cosí portava
sortint 6 mesos amb una noia i sempre l'havia vist amb el mocador. No li havia
vist mai els cabells!!! Bé, només en una foto d'ella que ell ens ensenyava en
el mòbil. Ens encanta passejar pels carrers mentre la gent ens atura per fer-se
fotos, entrevistes o aprendre anglès. Els més tímids ens miren de lluny i
somriuen. I els crido perquè vinguin i no siguin vergonyosos, cosa que els fa
riure encara més i ser més vergonyosos, però al final venen i ens fem unes
fotos amb ells. Fantàstic.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Per la tarda,
caminant per la ciutat, uns homes, molt àrabs en el seu aspecte (túnica blanca,
gorro típic, barba i bigoti) ens convidàven a sentar-nos amb ells. Vam estar
xerrant sobre religió, és clar. Per variar, va tocar parlar dels 5 pilars de
l'Islam o el paradís musulmà. Va ser molt interessat com n'estan d'oberts a
l'hora de parlar de la seva religió i tancats a l'hora de parlar de qualsevol
altra.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">De sobte, vam sentir
el famós <i>Allahu akbar, Allahu</i>... (Allah es gran) cantat des de la
mesquita que estava uns metres més enllà i que cridava els seus fidels a resar
(una de les 5 vegades que ho han de fer al dia). Jo que sóc molt curiós m'hi
vaig acostar, potser massa ja que un dels homes em va convidar a acompanyar-lo
a rentar-me la cara, les mans, el clatell, els peus, tres vegades cada lloc com
mana l'alcorà. Vaig entrar a la mesquita discretament per fer-me invisible però
obviament no ho vaig aconseguir. El noi em va portar fins al seu costat i em va
dir " tu posat aquí" i jo tot vermell li vaig contestar que no sabia
resar! A ell poc li va importar i em va dir que només havia de fer com ell. I
allí estava jo, a Sumatra, en una mesquita, en una filera d'homes que va resar
durant uns 10 llargs minuts. De genolls, amb el cap al terra, de peus, ara al
terra de nou. Va ser una experiència divertida i única! En Coen estava 3
persones més enllà fent el mateix. Em va encantar poder estar a dins.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Sumatra, un nom que
m'inspira contes i llegendes, una illa fantàstica que no us decepcionarà. Estem
tristos de deixar-la. Hi deixem molts records, molts amics i moltes
experiències. La nostra propera destinació serà molt menys exòtica i
interessant encara que potser la gegantina Jakarta ens depara algunes
sorpreses... A la propera!!!</span></div>
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-17313924449371401862011-12-09T16:01:00.001+01:002012-05-21T16:20:29.738+02:00El planeta dels simis, Sumatra part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Sumatra. Només el nom a mi ja m'inspirava selva, aventura, tigres, orangutans, elefants salvatges i fins i tot rinocerons! No sé perquè però també em fa pensar en El llibre de la selva!!! Ja sé que la història del llibre original té lloc a la Índia i no a Indonesia, però jo penso en la versió de dibuixos animats i concretament en la escena on aquells orangutans estàven ballant en unes ruines hindús amb en Mowgli. Bé, de fet no n'hi ha d'orangutans a la Índia. Estan tots a Indonesia i a Malaysia (Sumatra i Borneo). </div>
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D'altra banda, havia deixat Brasil, el país amb més catòlics del món, i ara estava a Indonesia, el país amb més musulmans del món, aproximadament uns 220 milions. Composat de més de 17 mil illes i de innumerables tresors, estava molt il·lusionat en visitar aquest país gegantí pel qual només et donen un visat de 30 dies per uns 25 $. Excolònia holandesa, portuguesa, ocupada pels japonesos durant la segona guerra mundial, Indonesia era un país el qual cap altre viatger me n'havia parlat malament.<br />
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Un vol em deixava a Banda Aceh en una nit húmida. Aquesta ciutat famosa en el món sencer per ser l'epicentre del terratrèmol que va causar el tsunami del 2004 i que va deixar centenars de milers de morts arreu de l'Oceà Índic. Estava cansat i famèlic però necessitava estirar les cames. I ho faig fer fins que un noi assegut en una botiga em va saludar i es va posar a xerrar amb mi. Estàven celebrant una festa i em va demanar que m'hi unís, cosa que jo vaig fer tímidament. Vaig poder menjar i beure una mica. Era la primera vegada que dones musulmanes cobertes amb el Jilbab (vel que els cobreix només els cabells i el clatell) volien xerrar tant amb mi. Al cap d'una estona, els nois em van demanar si volia visitar la ciutat de nit i jo, després de pensar-m'ho dos segons, vaig dir que sí malgrat no coneixer-los de res.<br />
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Em van dur amb la moto amunt i avall ensenyant-me prostíbuls de dones que venien d'una altra àrea més catòlica i em deien que no m'emboliqués amb dones de Banda Aceh, que les de Medan eren molt millors! Finalment, em van dur a menjar pastes locals i a beure cafè de Sumatra, el millor del país, en un xiringuito ple de locals on tothom em mirava. Estava clar que era el centre d'atenció. Van pagar ells (!!!) i em van dur a l'hotel després de donar més voltes amb la moto. Va ser una primera experiència molt gratificant. Totes aquelles pors sobre els musulmans radicals a Indonesia que posen bombes a discoteques plenes de turistes van desaparèixer de seguida. Em va encantar el primer contacte a Indonesia.<br />
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L'endemà agafava un ferri que em duria a l'illa de Pulau Weh. A bord, un altre home em va "entrar" per practicar el seu anglès. Malauradament per a ell, jo necessitava un curs accelerat de Bahasa Indonesia, l'idioma del país, i vaig estar una hora aprenent les meves primeres paraules. Un cop a l'illa em vaig instal·lar en un bugalow de fusta just al damunt d'una aigüa d'un color turquesa impressionant.<br />
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Durant una setmana vaig estar fent submarinisme (l'instructor era un noi de Barcelona, en Sergi), snorkelling, mirant pelis, descansant a l'hamaca de la meva terraceta i fent vida social a l'Olala Cafe, on anava a sopar cada nit. Em va costar marxar de l'illa però després de la setmana vaig reunir forces suficients per deixar el meu petit paradís. I no ho vaig fer sol sinó amb la Nadine d'Alemanya i en Coen d'Holanda. Al ferri ens vam sentir com estrelles de hollywood, tothom es volia fer fotos amb nosaltres, sobretot amb en Coen pels seus cabells rossos. Jovenetes, famílies, avis i nens. Tots volien fer-se unes fotos amb el blancs. Va ser divertit. I et fan pujar l'autoestima ja que tots et diuen que ets molt guapo (homes i dones).<br />
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Amb ells vaig tornar a Banda Aceh a veure els vaixells que el tsunami havia portat a l'interior amb la seva força destructora. El primer tenia uns 25 metres d'eslora i estava damunt d'unes parets d'unes cases destruides. L'han deixat allà per recordar que va salvar moltes vides, les de la gent que es va poder refugiar a bord seu mentre l'aigüa ho arrasava tot al seu voltant. El segon vaixell era molt més gran i pesava 2500 tonelades!!! Impressionant (mireu la foto). Gegantí! I el vam anar a buscar 4 km terra endins!!! Us ho podeu imaginar?<br />
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Bukit Lawang és un poblet a la vorera d'un riu. Es tracta d'un poble molt turístic però que ara, en època de pluges, estava mig buit. Vam conèixer un guia i vam contractar un trek de dos dies per veure els orangutans a la selva. Tantametix, la nit abans vam fer una mica de festa amb locals i turistes, cantants cançons conegudes i bevent cervesa Bintang. Tots els locals saben tocar la guitarra i tots toquen les mateixes cançons... i quan dic tots els locals, em refereixo des de nens a les avies! La cançó estrella és la famosa nadala Jingle Bells amb la lletra de "Jungle trek, Jungle trek, in Bukit Lawang; See the monkeys, see the birds, see orangutans..."<br />
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En la zona de selva de Sumatra que anàvem a travessar hi viuen 25 orangutans. S'havia de veure a quants tindriem la sort de veure. Nosaltres vam tenir més sort que ningú ja que en vam veure 12! Forces més de la mitjana dels altres grups. Alguns són agressius i ens fan correr si no volem que ens robin la motxil·la, d'altres són molt afables i et volen tocar i agafar. De nit, al campament vam fer unes rialles mentre beviem vi local i jugàvem a jocs amb mistos. Un llangardaix d'un metre i mig es passajava tranquil·lament pel riuet que teniem al costat.<br />
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Pel matí vam seguir cap al riu sense esperar trobar cap altre orangutan fins que una noia que caminava al darrera del grup comença a empènyer a tothom dient que la perseguia un mono! Quan el guia se'n va adonar, el mono en qüestió era la Jacquie, la més dolça de les orangutanes i el seu fillet. Ens va tocar, acariciar, es va deixar fotografiar.... Jo vaig tenir una experiència especial amb ella quan em va agafar durant una estona i després se m'emportava cap a un altra direcció. Van ser uns moments màgics. El grup va marxar cap al riu i jo em vaig quedar amb ella i una altre guia uns 20 minuts més.<br />
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El final de la experiència és baixar el riu fent tubing, una activitat de riu en la qual uns grans flotadors estan lligats els uns als altres i baixes pel riu com si fos un raft. Un noi s'asseu primer i la noi a sobre... encara que no la coneguis!!! Una situació força divertida on una desconeguda t'esclafa tot el que no sona mentre amb el cul vas picant amb totes les pedres del fons del riu que et vas trobant. Molt divertit! De nit vam fer festa amb la resta del grup: molta Bintang, molta festa, molta música i ballaruca.<br />
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La nostra següent parada seria Berastagi, en contra de la meva sàvia recomanació. La Nadine i en Coen volien pujar un volcà aquí i jo no en tenia ganes. Per no separar-nos vaig decidir acompanyar-los però ells farien l'esforç mentre jo em passejaria pel poble, el mercat, les paradetes de menjar local, una pagoda dorada i em prendria un dia per descansar del treking per la selva. Va ser un dia dedicat a mi, un bon dia. Ells van tornar a la tarda rient i dient lo maco que havia sigut. No els va costar gaire reconèixer entre somriures la mala experiència que havien tingut: pluja, fred, una ascenció més difícil que la esperada i a la cima no van veure res perquè estava ennuvolat! Una pèrdua de temps total. Ho sento però que content que estava d'haver-me quedat!<br />
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Només una mala notícia. La Nadine ens deixa que se'n va a Austràlia on estarà treballant fent recerca per una universitat els propers anys. Un comiat sentit ple d'emocions i rialles... i Bintang!<br />
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Sumatra és molt gran i encara volem fer moltes coses. Els dies passen ràpid i la pressió que el visat caduqui és una mica estressant. En Coen i jo seguim cap al sud!<br />
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<br />Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-67803693824099612162011-11-26T10:04:00.005+01:002012-05-21T16:21:02.911+02:00Singapur, el lleó asiàtic<div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Singapur era el meu primer país asiàtic en aquesta volta el món. Ja hi havia estat 10 anys abans però ara em serviria de base per començar a explorar altres països propers. Em sentia infinitament feliç de tornar a ser a Àsia, un continent que m'apassiona per la seva gent, el seu menjar i els seus colors. Aquesta vegada no m'allotjaria a l'excel·lent Marina Mandarin, com vaig fer la darrera vegada però a un petit i barat hostal al barri de Little India.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span"><iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&vpsrc=6&ctz=-480&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&num=200&start=192&ll=-26.37926,-123.190796&spn=75.424297,283.471436&t=m&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&output=embed" width="425"></iframe><br /><small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&vpsrc=6&ctz=-480&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&num=200&start=192&ll=-26.37926,-123.190796&spn=75.424297,283.471436&t=m&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&source=embed" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Volta el mon</a> in a larger map</small></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">M'hi vaig passar una setmana i vaig estar sol durant tota la estada. No sé si era culpa meva que necessitava estar sol o que els viatgers a Àsia són diferents (més joves, més independents...). La veritat és que no vaig tenir una vida social gens animada així que vaig aprofitar per conèixer la ciutat amb profunditat. Caminava hores i hores cada dia explorant els diferents barris de la ciutat i descobrint petits detalls en cada racó possible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">El barri colonial és interessant perquè hi podem trobar els edificis oficials colonials, museus, el riu, els restaurants, les barques, els hotels de luxe, els edificis d'oficines, parcs, ferraris, lamborginis, rolls royce, dones maques, la catedral... tothom va a l'hotel Raffles a prendre un Singapur Slim, que és el cocktail que han exportat a tot el món. El meu amic Joan em va dir que hi anés i, ho sento, però no volia pagar els diners que significaven el meu pressupost diari en una sola beguda. A més, els viatgers amb shorts no hi som benvinguts! I tinc una altra excusa Joan! Ja el vaig provar durant la meva primera visita a la ciutat 10 anys abans. Quedo perdonat?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Els meus amics també em van recomanar que em comprés un "abanicu" i que regategés molt si no volia que em “fotéssin una astillada". Per sort, a Singapur no cal regatejar perquè és un país ric i els preus són fixes. I calor sí que en vaig passar, i molta! Tanmateix, he de confessar que la primera vegada que vaig suar de valent, no va ser per la calor ambiental sinó a causa d'uns fideus amb verduretes que picàven molt i em van deixar la boca cremant!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">A Chinatown hi podem trobar temples els budistes, taoïstes, botigues d'estill xinès, lampares vermelles típiques per a tot arreu decorant els carrers i molts turistes. Interessant però està vist en una hora. Little India és el mateix; temples hinduístes, mercats amb flors, estatues, menjar, colors... és com estar a l'Índia però a Singapur. Es veu que qualsevol cosa d'India que vulguis comprar, la pots trobar en aquest barri. Finalment, Kampong Glam és el barri àrab amb la seva majestuosa mesquita, menjar àrab i tota l'ambientació que podem esperar del barri. Em va saber greu no poder visitar la mesquita però hi vaig anar un divendres, dia de pregaria.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">És fantàstic veure com conviuen tota aquesta gent de religions i mentalitats diferents sense entrar en discrepàncies. És cert que cadascú té el seu barri però és fàcil veure que estan tots barrejats. Pots trobar temples de 3 religions diferents en 100 metres quadrats. Singapur és un país petit i amb una diversitat enorme que és un exemple de convivència.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Quasi cada nit acabava a Marina Bay on està ple de restaurants, galeries comercials, un museu amb una exposició sobre Dalí, la pista de gel, miradors o l'espectacle de llum i música. Allà passava les hores fent fotos nocturnes als edificis il·luminats de la ciutat. Quan penso amb els meus pares que segurament es miraran totes les fotos... pobrets, hehehehe.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">També vaig tenir temps d'anar a Orchard Road, un carrer amb un centenar de centres comercials de diferents mides, formes i colors. La veritat és que és impressionant. No s'acaba mai i et canses aviat. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Sembla impossible però a Singapur, per petit que sigui, hi podem trobar un troç de selva tropical! La propera vegada que visiti la ciutat hi aniré a donar un tomb.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Una de les raons per les quals estava tan content d'estar a Àsia era el menjar. M'encanta el menjar d'aquest continent ja sigui xinès, japonès, tailandès, malay, indonesi... és fantàstic. Per 2 euros menges com un rei! Els fideus fregits amb verdures, pollastre o marisc estan boníssims. M'està entrant gana només de pensar-hi!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Després d'una setmana a Singapur vaig decidir que la meva propera destinació seria Indonesia i que començaria per l'illa de Sumatra. Tothom m'havia dit que era un país fantàstic i tenia moltes ganes de descobrir-ho per mi mateix.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbC5LjJM0bKC7TbWnVqT7GSo116t63I5WkkcYrMibjxbWFcnVotym9lUrbqkvYblJCiQU-KuEAdcDn4wOTHmxQlOxZEKdmwYtECGyIG9ur1Yxc19essjsRyzNaH97v_iavvsIJjvwK6vm/s1600/Singapur+%2528255%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5679228112482950338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYbC5LjJM0bKC7TbWnVqT7GSo116t63I5WkkcYrMibjxbWFcnVotym9lUrbqkvYblJCiQU-KuEAdcDn4wOTHmxQlOxZEKdmwYtECGyIG9ur1Yxc19essjsRyzNaH97v_iavvsIJjvwK6vm/s400/Singapur+%2528255%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-33080211796946568832011-11-12T05:46:00.007+01:002012-05-21T16:31:00.365+02:00En Marc al país dels kiwis!<div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">De camí a Nova Zelanda des de la meva estimada Buenos Aires, tenia el privilegi de volar sobre l'Oceà Pacífic per primera vegada en la meva vida. El privilegi? O més aviat la sensació estranya que la meva vida s'escapa de forma descarada. Ara m'entendreu.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Tothom coneix en Willy Fogg, aquell lleó (en dibuixos animats) que donava la volta el món amb un gat, una rata i una pantera. Aquell gentleman londinenc va guanyar la seva aposta de fer la volta el món en 80 dies gràcies a un fet que no havia previst: al creuar l'oceà Pacífic havia guanyat un dia que evitaria que arribés tard. Doncs a mi em passa al revés! Jo vaig sortir un dia dimarts de Buenos Aires en un vol de 10 hores en la mateixa direcció que el sol. El problema és que vaig creuar la línia de canvi de dia en el sentit incorrecte. Vaig arribar a Auckland, Nova Zelanda, un dijous. Vaig perdre un dia sencer de la meva vida!!! Aquell dimecres mai no va existir per a mi. Com ho puc recuperar? A qui em puc queixar? No puc denunciar a ningú per aquesta aberració? La única sol·lució que veig és, en el futur, donar una volta el món en el sentit invers per així recuperar aquest dia.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Només arribar a Auckland, les meves sensacions eren boníssimes. Tothom era molt ben educat i amable amb mi. El conductor de l'autobús que em duia de l'aeroport a la ciutat em va desitjar bon dia i em va preguntar a on anava i com estava!!! Una mica més li faig un petó! Feia anys que no em passava. Fins i tot em va aconsellar quina seria la millor parada per a mi. Impressionant!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Com deia, les sensacions eren fantàstiques. Estava molt content d'estar a Nova Zelanda però començava a arrepentir-me de només quedar-m'hi 4 dies. Fins i tot vaig començar a pensar alternatives per quedar-me: canviar el vol, apretar més encara el cinturó, fer un tour ràpid de les illes en 3 setmanes... però no. Les raons per les quals només em quedava 4 dies no havien canviat. El mundial de rugbi havia disparat els preus, hi havia massa gent, i continuava estant pressionat per un pressupost que cada dia feia riure més i més. La meva estada a Àfrica i a Amèrica del Sud havia sortit massa cara. Ara ja era massa tard per retallar despeses com la dels goriles, els safaris, el creuer a l'Antàrtida o el vaixell per les illes Galàpagos. Massa tard però no m'arrepenteixo de res. Tot això ha sigut increïble però si no ho hagués fet, tindria diners per un any més de viatge!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">L'hostal era súper cèntric. Just a quatre passes caminant de la famosa Sky Tower, la estructura més alta del país, i a pocs minuts del port esportiu i Queen Street, l'arteria principal. Auckland és una ciutat de més d'un milió I mig d'habitants quan el país no arriba als 5. A més, es tracta d'un país am buns 50 milions d'ovelles. Una altra cosa que em va sorprendre va ser la quantitat d'asiàtics vivint aquí. Està ple de japonesos i coreans que tenen condicions especials favorables per demanar permisos de immigració i treball. És una barreja interessant. Ah, i per a mi, la gran novetat era la possibilitat de tirar el paper de vàter dins del vàter i no en una paperera com tot l'any a Amèrica del Sud! Que modern! Canonades que no s'embussen!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Com no em van deixar fer el check-in me'n vaig anar a passejar pel port on em vaig quedar dormit en un troç de gespa artificial. Estava cansat pel jet lag i el llarg viatge. De seguida vaig trobar companyia en 3 nois i una noia de Sant Cugat que de seguida em van convidar a passar el dia amb ells. Tots ells estan viatjant, estudiant o treballant. Depenent del què et permetin les autoritats ja que estan força durs amb els permisos.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Imagineu si els kiwis (nacionals de Nova Zelanda) estan preparats pel turisme que hi han 3 empreses principals Kiwi, Magic i Stray que totes organitzen Free Day Tours per la ciutat. Et venen a buscar amb l'autocar i et passegen tot el dia. No és una cosa que m'agradi gaire fer ja que preferèixo passejar pel meu compte però ho vaig fer amb els meus nous companys i de forma gratuïta. No podia dir que no. El tour va estar bé: vam agafar el ferri per donar una volta per port i veure el skyline des del mar, vam anar a North Point i, per acabar, vam caminar per sota el pont mentre alguns feien bunjee jumping (ponting). Si haguéssim fet tot això pel nostre compte ens hagués sortit per uns 50 euros.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Les 3 empreses fan aquests tours gratuïts per captar clients a fer les seves rutes en autocar per tot el país. Es veu que els de <i>Kiwi Experience</i> està limitat en la edat dels seus clients fins a un màxim de 30 anys i està ple d'angleses que, com tots els demés motxil·lers sabem, beuen molt. Els xòfers d'aquests autocars es posen les botes amb les angleses borratxes i fins i tot fan apostes entre ells a veure qui es beneficia més turistes. El nom no oficial del bus és el Sex bus. Jo vaig proposar als de Magic Tours que fessin un sex bus per a gent d'entre 25 i 35 i em van dir que no seria una mala idea...<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">El meu darrer dia el passaria amb els meus amics Alieke i Sébastien, parella fantàstica que em vaig trobar fins a 4 occasions a Amèrica del Sud i sempre de forma fortuïta (Argentina, Bolívia i Perú). Ell és un francès que va conèixer a una kiwi mentre viatjaven pel món. La cosa ha funcionat i ara viuen junts a Auckland. Em feia molta il·lusió el retrobament ja que sempre haviem viscut moments macos plegats. A Cusco vam viure un Barça-Madrid plegats on vam vibrar d'allò més. Ell donant suport al Madrid, és clar!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Em van portar a la platja de Muriwai on vam observar els ocells anomenats gannets, vam passejar per les roques i vam fer una degustació de cerveses artesanals. Tot això serviria d'escalfament pel moment estrella del dia: els quarts de final del mundial de rugbi. Primer havia de donar suport a Gales que jugava contra Irlanda. La meva amiga galesa, la Beth, no m'ho hauria perdonar si no hagués estat animant a l'equip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Més tard jugarien França contra Anglaterra, el plat fort. En Sébastien em va donar una bandera francesa que em vaig penjar al coll, com va fer ell. La Alieke anava amb unes banderetes franceses al cabell. Ens vam passejar per la ciutat tota la tarda i la gent ens donava ànims, ens saludava i es volia fer fotos amb nosaltres. Va ser divertit. El partit van anar a una de les carpes condicionades per la occasió amb dues pantalles gegants i molt d'ambient! Aquest era el primer partit sencer de rugbi que veia a la meva vida. No entenia la meitat de les coses que passàven al terreny de joc però m'ho vaig passar d'allò més bé. L'Alieke m'anava dient que quan ella cridés o animés, que jo fes el mateix, hahahha, i clar, jo ho feia!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Ens vam acomiadar amb unes cerveses i amb un somriure a la boca després de la treballada victòria francesa. Havia sigut un dia fantàstic però estava cansat i l'endemà tenia un avió ben d'hora. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 10pt;">Amb una mica de perspectiva us diré que la gran final la van jugar Les Bleus (França) contra els All Blacks (Nova Zelanda). Els locals eren clars favorits i tenien un equip millor però la guerra estava servida a casa d'en Sébastien i la Alieke. Un dels dos havia de guanyar i va ser l'Alieke per un resultat molt ajustat. Els desitjo molta felicitat i molta sort, com a tots vosaltres.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje6XzIKr-UN09QCaAJrJ3xqmLhrMI6RS6zNafUzuYXvALTWVA_SUHAeGHDiJfdqSGfclwW5D5Y6X-IhU810w8GYDto3_cUl1fC6niyt_ob21jMSX4e6yrsapV75mczwCHPA2nekNUM_5om/s1600/au+%252824%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5673966506894312178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje6XzIKr-UN09QCaAJrJ3xqmLhrMI6RS6zNafUzuYXvALTWVA_SUHAeGHDiJfdqSGfclwW5D5Y6X-IhU810w8GYDto3_cUl1fC6niyt_ob21jMSX4e6yrsapV75mczwCHPA2nekNUM_5om/s400/au+%252824%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-62336133852557676712011-10-28T09:09:00.008+02:002012-05-21T16:31:40.690+02:00BA baby!!!<div>
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No em puc imaginar un millor lloc per acomiadar-me d'Amèrica del Sud que BA, o Baires, o Bs As, o Buenos Aires! La ciutat que em va acollir per quasi 3 setmanes quan vaig arribar al continent. Quan la vaig visitar per primera vegada no em va apassionar gaire encara que podia reconèixer l'encant que tenia. La veia com una ciutat enorme de 20 milions de persones, conductors bojos i xoriços a cada cantonada, i totalment europea, sense cap exotisme. </div>
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I bé, realment segueix sent la mateixa però li he sabut trobar la gràcia enmig de tota aquesta bogeria. Primer de tot vaig reservar un llit a l'hostal més boig de la ciutat. Famós per les seves festes diàries en tot el continent. Sembla que no siguis ningú si ho has estat al Milhouse, és com no tenir facebook, i jo volia experimentar aquesta sensació, ser algú, hehehhe. Així que me'n vaig anar una setmana a l'hostal de la festa per excel·lència.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7i9isMtIiHWblaJFlLWuMX4GqkLqNQXFxpJifocWgCxQUwBOKh-3gAIt-oafkXhN5gHw0ZIGLv4PIxsqnqrF4-Iek4TevuUuP2YXbENTRKCHvSdwRLwy5A5ssP6gZeM96kXnTM_rdoV6e/s1600/Argg+%25281%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668444971793237666" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7i9isMtIiHWblaJFlLWuMX4GqkLqNQXFxpJifocWgCxQUwBOKh-3gAIt-oafkXhN5gHw0ZIGLv4PIxsqnqrF4-Iek4TevuUuP2YXbENTRKCHvSdwRLwy5A5ssP6gZeM96kXnTM_rdoV6e/s400/Argg+%25281%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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El primer dia vaig fer amics de seguida i sense fer-me de pregar vaig demanar les meves primeres dues cerveses durant el happy hour. La festa va durar fins tard i vaig poder celebrar el meu segon any d'aniversari viatjant tal com m'ho demanava el cos. Això sí, em vaig tornar a trobar els meus estimats amics Yasmin, Chris i Alex d'Anglaterra amb els qui vaig viatjar per Brasil.</div>
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L'hostal organitza de tot. A part de les turistades de sempre, cada dia fa una festa en un dels seus dos hostals i després tothom s'ajunta en una de les discoteques del voltant. Només ho vaig fer dues nits...</div>
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El segon dia vaig conèixer un grup de noies i pràcticament no el vaig deixar fins que vaig marxar. En marc i les seves noies. Sempre estava envoltat de dones! I no creieu que fossin fàcils de gestionar. Un parell de dies els vaig fer de guia turístic per la ciutat i m'anaven posant nota quan ho feia bé i malament, quan em perdia, quan no trobava el jardí japonès. Les vaig fer caminar durant hores, i cada 5 minuts em demanaven quan faltava i sempre els deia que "20 minuts". És que són com nenes petites!!! Però me les estimo, hehehe.</div>
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Amb les meves nenes vam anar a sopar a La Cabrera, al barri de Palermo. El restaurant on turistes i locals es barregen per menjar el seu famós bife de chorizo de 800 grams!!! Sí, sí, no ho heu llegit malament. Quasi 1 quilo de carn ben cuinada i de bona qualitat. Ho vam regar tot amb un bon parell d'ampolles de vi i molta festa pels bars al voltant de plaça Serrano.</div>
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Un dia vaig poder veure a la Tara, una amiga anglesa que vaig conèixer a BA 11 mesos abans. Una bona amiga que he d'anar a visitar aviat a Anglaterra. Quan la vaig veure no m'ho podia creure. S'havia engreixat entre 5 i 10 quilos, s'havia tenyit i tallat el cabell però és igual d'alta, guapa i simpàtica. Ja veieu, un no pot viure a BA sense ser víctima de la mala vida: carn i cervesa. I com no podia ser d'una altra manera, vam anar a fer una cervesa a la nostra estimada plaça Serrano, al mateix lloc on anàvem a menjar i beure l'any anterior mentre preníem el sol i maleíem els coloms, no portadors de pau sinó de malalties i porqueria. La Tara treballa en un hotel a BA però aviat se n'anirà cap a casa.</div>
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També vaig poder estar una estona amb en Robert, el meu amic de Nova Orleans. Aquest no s'havia engreixat però sí s'havia tallat el cabell. A ell l'havia conegut a Uruguay i vam viatjar plegats uns 10 dies. Quins records! Amb ell vam fer la cervesa i la pizza pel barri de La recoleta. Ell està estudiant un màster a BA i el seu castellà és quasi perfecte.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCRWPc5S_T6Viu7HkeiBrSs2LSwJoFTYH2AEnBSMdHVHQxZ8GzPTm5pP3fPQ5sJLwnVhX_darjQDdRBNVtS4DDsK6so5Xd-t6DVLTSF82xlxIpDDr8aeOGSbNvn-MeUH7MXBw25fPdYqnB/s1600/Argg+%252813%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668440289551428818" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCRWPc5S_T6Viu7HkeiBrSs2LSwJoFTYH2AEnBSMdHVHQxZ8GzPTm5pP3fPQ5sJLwnVhX_darjQDdRBNVtS4DDsK6so5Xd-t6DVLTSF82xlxIpDDr8aeOGSbNvn-MeUH7MXBw25fPdYqnB/s400/Argg+%252813%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48vMj65IwHVecXVlnVEF3YtdPQd77KokTiPSvXIRPrI8CEikn_4RDOQtmHzycMAbt1BKbvGMH0MYKZoEY_E1cTl-w1TdAB0IS-_zHhmh_mgEsuaYdlgtofYuNtLj-LXPusTYD14tnorDU/s1600/Argg+%252814%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668440291355177858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48vMj65IwHVecXVlnVEF3YtdPQd77KokTiPSvXIRPrI8CEikn_4RDOQtmHzycMAbt1BKbvGMH0MYKZoEY_E1cTl-w1TdAB0IS-_zHhmh_mgEsuaYdlgtofYuNtLj-LXPusTYD14tnorDU/s400/Argg+%252814%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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També vaig tenir temps de quedar per menjar ràpidament amb la Mariela, una guapa argentina que vaig conèixer al Brasil, al Morro de Sao Paolo mentre estava de vacances amb una amiga seva. Em va convidar a dinar durant la seva pausa a la feina.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2SeQF45L6dKtx9bBS73bs68a54ChYdfEvqYsz2eQbPEeDkn8XnlzV3urZCvAcYXThXE8AjjBWTCCsfB1t-nq9vQs4mmhOIwZlphOQoVUxZkTDGe5h9j_9FCRHDRbCRNR-b5kB9W-hNDKa/s1600/Argg+%252815%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668440286241857410" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2SeQF45L6dKtx9bBS73bs68a54ChYdfEvqYsz2eQbPEeDkn8XnlzV3urZCvAcYXThXE8AjjBWTCCsfB1t-nq9vQs4mmhOIwZlphOQoVUxZkTDGe5h9j_9FCRHDRbCRNR-b5kB9W-hNDKa/s400/Argg+%252815%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_V-bcZ3qEMd04ARFzxtnVe_0P92jJ9gHnl_7tLRBEVZBs4YUKwU1aiaUK6kTDV0ZClswJcEQjSJ_hj77AiiKXEvULSFkntUtjKoUKvf_CIMOlW5BlTaC3MfXs7bIiMjqc68DVt28ZiJd/s1600/Argg+%252816%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668440275036690018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0_V-bcZ3qEMd04ARFzxtnVe_0P92jJ9gHnl_7tLRBEVZBs4YUKwU1aiaUK6kTDV0ZClswJcEQjSJ_hj77AiiKXEvULSFkntUtjKoUKvf_CIMOlW5BlTaC3MfXs7bIiMjqc68DVt28ZiJd/s400/Argg+%252816%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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Quina alegria poder-los veure a tots ells! Però cap comiat d'Amèrica del Sud estaria complert sense la Beth, la meva amiga galesa que venia a BA per acomiadar-se de mi i del continent. El seu avió sortia 4 dies més tard que el meu. Amb ella no podia ser d'una altra manera; vam anar en un petit restaurant de barri a menjar barat i bo bife de chorizo i vi de la casa. Quan portàvem dues ampolles el cambrer ens va mirar malament i quasi ens va fer fora a patades perquè volia anar a casa abans el torn de nit.</div>
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El darrer comiat va ser amb la Beth (Gales), la Yasmine (Anglaterra), en Chris (Anglaterra), la Kate (Anglaterra), la Franca (Suïssa) i la Min (Corea). Un bon bife de chorizo abans d'abraçar-los a tots i anar a l'aeroport. Un trist comiat. Mai no em podia imaginar que em sabria greu deixar aquest continent, però així va ser. Sobretot per aquesta darrera setmana fantàstica BA acompanyat de fantàstic amics i increïbles records.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTHGrTtIAqV-vv24XKwjFgxcG_fXe02vCx2Eqsu_n63-0crX47ffJordjnMudhT-WhpA1tOl_y9bq0meHwMt3yeEoQ8QbxsKQfM8ZLM7N2cLOgZy_lV3caS8NPsUb0l6aNz-C5L1psFaK/s1600/Argg+%252818%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668438977353815698" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggTHGrTtIAqV-vv24XKwjFgxcG_fXe02vCx2Eqsu_n63-0crX47ffJordjnMudhT-WhpA1tOl_y9bq0meHwMt3yeEoQ8QbxsKQfM8ZLM7N2cLOgZy_lV3caS8NPsUb0l6aNz-C5L1psFaK/s400/Argg+%252818%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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Al final, el balanç només pot ser positiu. He visitat indrets tan irreals com l'Antàrtida, l'Illa de Pasqua, les Illes Galápagos, Machu Pichu, la ciutat perduda de Colòmbia, el Salar de Uyuni a Bolívia, les Torres del Paine a Xile, el Fitz Roy a Argentina, el poblet de pescadors de Cabo Polonio a Uruguay, les platges de Brasil o la cascada més alta del món a Venezuela. Però el millor de tot ha sigut la gent, ho sento però no parlo dels locals, sinó els altres viatgers, els meus amics, els meus germans.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkX11PoJRtEHjT5x__2C_kAK0fPO6FfNcZFd7dErobOSouwXIu6uCL0Q9_E98f0Cu9EdsjCA5Te7DXshDzrqX9CbdE2VLaJGDAoYa0mU6o0Y_LBGVo9bRSwU4m9_2w-OhwlRCHBr5tJIxv/s1600/Argg+%252819%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668438975600562930" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkX11PoJRtEHjT5x__2C_kAK0fPO6FfNcZFd7dErobOSouwXIu6uCL0Q9_E98f0Cu9EdsjCA5Te7DXshDzrqX9CbdE2VLaJGDAoYa0mU6o0Y_LBGVo9bRSwU4m9_2w-OhwlRCHBr5tJIxv/s400/Argg+%252819%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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Amèrica ha sigut bona amb mi. No he tingut cap problema malgrat la seva fama de violenta i d'atracaments a mà armada. He vist els meus pares quan em van venir a visitar a l'Illa de Pasqua, m'he curat d'un cor trencat a l'Àfrica, i he passat alguns dels millors moments de la meva vida amb la Beth i en Jim a la piscina de l'hostal de Santiago. Espero poder escriure aviat una entrada fent un balanç de debò, parlant dels meus highlights del continent. Són deures per a mi.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9htZ3rCYwnwgAKYVtq7u2WTPyTDwVy_c91qPmELrab-TQgafXSNwPaAtXw___mKtAmG7f2KJTCtwz4wB5R3FxcxYhtvTB-hlxOYnAoKc1IM_2-qYtXmXsOd-SakUzc9QMm7qFUCYNC2Pe/s1600/Argg+%252820%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668438973278740978" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9htZ3rCYwnwgAKYVtq7u2WTPyTDwVy_c91qPmELrab-TQgafXSNwPaAtXw___mKtAmG7f2KJTCtwz4wB5R3FxcxYhtvTB-hlxOYnAoKc1IM_2-qYtXmXsOd-SakUzc9QMm7qFUCYNC2Pe/s400/Argg+%252820%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
Quasi 11 hores de vol que són les qui em separen de Nova Zelanda, noves aventures i un nou continent. Quines ganes!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZ3Dj_K_ev0H4T8nkk9kyhiw3TCj1HBa9USol0B4_HwNgR96OLmug0BK3X_sM98_aqC0IZNR5I9cB9NbJ5QNtpc4ZBDcJVrCFjgunrAy8SvbPkd3FgnX6dIVUdinZijjxCAmqm9S03NXD/s1600/Argg+%252821%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668438969582476290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRZ3Dj_K_ev0H4T8nkk9kyhiw3TCj1HBa9USol0B4_HwNgR96OLmug0BK3X_sM98_aqC0IZNR5I9cB9NbJ5QNtpc4ZBDcJVrCFjgunrAy8SvbPkd3FgnX6dIVUdinZijjxCAmqm9S03NXD/s400/Argg+%252821%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKYDM0TJevUKOj_KS8ItIO6AeKoQhhLuMygQ_tp3Rk4MOOsEogn0COAiJhDbbjmlwSnTk7JHGc7R7N1zgL48_hpLrHO2hKq3aCtRXmbvoJWrycS2XdhbDQYpRjbG1N97RE363CblgO4Hh3/s1600/Argg+%252822%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5668438965168480690" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKYDM0TJevUKOj_KS8ItIO6AeKoQhhLuMygQ_tp3Rk4MOOsEogn0COAiJhDbbjmlwSnTk7JHGc7R7N1zgL48_hpLrHO2hKq3aCtRXmbvoJWrycS2XdhbDQYpRjbG1N97RE363CblgO4Hh3/s400/Argg+%252822%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-34327499642705192222011-10-18T09:11:00.004+02:002012-05-21T16:32:14.468+02:00Paraguai, l'aneguet lleig que no es transforma en signe<div>
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Paraguai és realment el país menys visitat d'Amèrica del Sud pels motxil·leros, sense comptar les infravalorades Guyanes. Després de deixar la costa de Brasil i viatjar unes 24 hores en diversos autocars vaig arribar a Ciudad del Este, famosa per ser tax free i paradís de compres pels milers de brasilers que creuen la frontera cada dia. Els preus són en dòlars americans o en reals brasilers. Si vols pagar en guaranis, la moneda local, et miren com si vinguéssis d'un altre planeta.</div>
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&vpsrc=1&ctz=-480&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&t=m&ll=-31.847169,-15.875244&spn=66.440659,113.57666&output=embed" width="425"></iframe><br />
<small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&vpsrc=1&ctz=-480&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&t=m&ll=-31.847169,-15.875244&spn=66.440659,113.57666&source=embed" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Volta el mon</a> in a larger map</small></div>
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<iframe frameborder="0" height="350" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&vpsrc=6&ctz=-480&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&num=200&start=192&sll=-26.37926,-118.806153&sspn=75.424297,274.702149&doflg=ptk&ll=16.636192,171.914063&spn=75.424297,274.702149&t=m&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&output=embed" width="425"></iframe><br />
<small>View <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en&vpsrc=6&ctz=-480&ie=UTF8&oe=UTF8&msa=0&num=200&start=192&sll=-26.37926,-118.806153&sspn=75.424297,274.702149&doflg=ptk&ll=16.636192,171.914063&spn=75.424297,274.702149&t=m&msid=208289829530774812511.000481d7c42e4f2132aee&source=embed" style="color: blue; text-align: left;">Volta el mon</a> in a larger map</small></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUyoFUna4sQscF8mYJv1ix3YypxNTAuTT3WOtQb-dkAqu4JZtYOeIPEQpXdYkZRLOd_uv6guRHlektps1lFh8ktZDXvstM14wrM4e-WdaMAvQ24QJoefrZH5OOIugcMXVZ3ih0ndeMdzV/s1600/P1120035.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664728710493777186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUyoFUna4sQscF8mYJv1ix3YypxNTAuTT3WOtQb-dkAqu4JZtYOeIPEQpXdYkZRLOd_uv6guRHlektps1lFh8ktZDXvstM14wrM4e-WdaMAvQ24QJoefrZH5OOIugcMXVZ3ih0ndeMdzV/s400/P1120035.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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Només posar un peu en territori paraguaià i desenes d'adolescents et donen catàlegs de botigues on comprar tot tipus d'aparells electrònics. La roba també ocupa un lloc important encara que no tant. Sembla una ciutat destinada específicament a comprar barat, com Andorra! Em sento com a casa, hehehe</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichEulB_R7TBWIRbVaFSjrvWBOTUgjJ2GG_zdtzlXFyS9_9q_e_s23ueVjPTJtLu60Tr-oXEpNkAWJxhsMLuVnLhkk7jx4aX53NQZPEZOeICQS2AZEdhuApvvSdIBoFhY3tYsOVDx8S0gl/s1600/P1120051.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664726981875781874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEichEulB_R7TBWIRbVaFSjrvWBOTUgjJ2GG_zdtzlXFyS9_9q_e_s23ueVjPTJtLu60Tr-oXEpNkAWJxhsMLuVnLhkk7jx4aX53NQZPEZOeICQS2AZEdhuApvvSdIBoFhY3tYsOVDx8S0gl/s400/P1120051.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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L'hostal està buit i en sóc l'únic client. Ja sabia que a Paraguai no trobaria gaires motxil·lers però ser la única persona en l'únic hostal de la ciutat, em sembla una mica exagerat. Tanmateix, passo un dia tranquil descansant del llarg viatge mirant la sèrie que estic seguint en el meu ordinador o gaudint del wifi gratuit. Faig una curta passejada per la ciutat per comprar un parell de coses i per la tarda vaig a visitar la gran atracció turística d'aquesta ciutat: la inmensa presa de Itaipú, la segona més gran del món.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-2B9-88FWGbArR7sw88sudYhU9euu6JDZKZGKwlx7IcYFSBYt6CmbuTEP-CLapb7IOiMGOJJTaL_RZRsc657XuQkVmOHVx0efCEYimiXfpCJr4jlto8TQf_IauUyT6psr32def3q7SmWK/s1600/P1120059.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664726975399876482" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-2B9-88FWGbArR7sw88sudYhU9euu6JDZKZGKwlx7IcYFSBYt6CmbuTEP-CLapb7IOiMGOJJTaL_RZRsc657XuQkVmOHVx0efCEYimiXfpCJr4jlto8TQf_IauUyT6psr32def3q7SmWK/s400/P1120059.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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Té una alçada de 200 metres, una llargada de 7 quilòmetres i proporciona el 80% de la electricitat del Brasil i el 100% la de Paraguai, obviament. Les obres van començar al 1975 i avui en dia és una de les construcions modernes fetes per l'home més gegantines de la terra. Les dades que ens donen són impressionants: amb el ferro utilitzat es podrien construir 380 torres Eiffel, amb el ciment utilitzat es podrien construir 210 estadis com el de Maracanà, cosa que representa 15 vegades més que l'eurotunel. Realment colossal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1nHQbPJEtzf9jOBy7ui6IuVjhVXro37N_9ytCj_5NouU63PTzeKLlFLkz-S4pkqqZ9r7_lroq6nQucM7mD-QAV5kpKPWJEE_j8BvQyq0UJPVwHiVeAZOyzrHpW44JwNXVlXfYKSvz9Hb/s1600/P1120073.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664726973093621442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1nHQbPJEtzf9jOBy7ui6IuVjhVXro37N_9ytCj_5NouU63PTzeKLlFLkz-S4pkqqZ9r7_lroq6nQucM7mD-QAV5kpKPWJEE_j8BvQyq0UJPVwHiVeAZOyzrHpW44JwNXVlXfYKSvz9Hb/s400/P1120073.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
L'endemà, per la meva sorpresa, 3 motxil·leros van arribar a l'hostal i vaig decidir quedar-me un dia més i així anar amb ells a visitar els salts d'aigüa de Monday. No són gaire impressionants però és una cascada interessant. A més, és famosa perquè al vespre es poden veure centenars d'ocells volar disparats en contra la cascada, sense estrellar-se, per poder travessar-la i anar a dormir a casa seva, darrera la cortina d'aigüa.<br />
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La meva següent parada seria a Encarnación on es poden visitar les ruines de les missions jesuites (o jesuïtiques com diuen ells). Aquestes van quedar desertes quan els jesuites van ser expulsats del territori. Hi ha dos escenaris principals, Trinidad i Jesús, i les vaig visitar ambdúes. No són cap meravella però ja que estava allà és interessant de conèixer-ho. A més, sempre puc dir que he estat en una de les ruines declarades patrimoni de la humanitat menys visitades del món! De fet, estava sol.</div>
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Jo no vaig anar a Asunción, la capital de Paraguai avui i també de l'imperi colonial durant un llarg període de temps fins que Cusco, al Perú, li va prendre el lloc (aquests peruans...). Tanmateix, he de dir que la gent de Paraguai m'ha agradat força. Són amables i t'ajuden sempre amb un somriure.</div>
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Havia arribat el moment de tornar allà on vaig començar 11 mesos abans, a Buenos Aires. Només hi havia cosa dolenta en això: que hauria de passar la nit que complia dos anys viatjant dormint en un autocar! Què hi farem... tot sigui per celebrar-ho amb una bona festa a la capital argentina!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Mc6c58N7gUeslKYFCtiVuTaslOxQlRFO1xL0QoKh2LmPbPEiTS_me10g3yGhWcpv7iGsqNmI5OYt2FzFGHSq5qBgu-nEU58b1NqCOvzuFKKkBNbggZGZgKvv_MWJgzaNrw5A8Npiksze/s1600/P1120143.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664726675365461538" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2Mc6c58N7gUeslKYFCtiVuTaslOxQlRFO1xL0QoKh2LmPbPEiTS_me10g3yGhWcpv7iGsqNmI5OYt2FzFGHSq5qBgu-nEU58b1NqCOvzuFKKkBNbggZGZgKvv_MWJgzaNrw5A8Npiksze/s400/P1120143.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0gwm0F3_HHKfBiw8daKdqQ_TawBrDZN3xg-XbA8QMKVf3rw-lDgo_uUqjwnWBQKs2G3N9MC1YiqGwV7LFFEIGADLf5l8JL-WGmPbD7OHiScemijTciq8eoIIVeKiGSQh_5JKFELgQKR7/s1600/P1120151.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5664726669060511378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo0gwm0F3_HHKfBiw8daKdqQ_TawBrDZN3xg-XbA8QMKVf3rw-lDgo_uUqjwnWBQKs2G3N9MC1YiqGwV7LFFEIGADLf5l8JL-WGmPbD7OHiScemijTciq8eoIIVeKiGSQh_5JKFELgQKR7/s400/P1120151.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4613232366468565389.post-91689291335244481792011-10-05T04:46:00.008+02:002012-05-21T16:34:02.371+02:00Samba do Brasil<div>
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Sabeu que a Brasil molt sovint és més barat anar en avió que en autocar? Sembla una bogeria però no ho és. Doncs per estalviar-me quasi 30 hores en una autocar i uns calerons, vaig decidir volar des de Salvador fins a Rio. Des de l'aire, les llums de Rio il·luminen la ciutat i mostren una vista impressionant. Quines ganes que tenia de començar a explorar-la! La ciutat de Riu de Gener era una de les destinacions que més il·lusió em feien des de feia molt de temps. El nom té poca història. De la mateixa forma que Easter Island o Christmas Island, aquesta ciutat va ser descoberta pels colonitzadors el mes de gener. Quina poca imaginació! I malgrat es trobi en una bahia, els navegants es pensàven que era un riu, i d'aquí el nom. He de reconèixer que és un nom maco que li queda bé.</div>
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Els hostals a Rio són caríssims. Un llit en un dormitori compartit costa el doble que en qualsevol altre lloc. Tenia reserva en un hostal a la platja de Copacabana que m'havien aconsellat i va resultar ser una cau de mala mort. L'endemà vaig sortir corrent entre cames. Estava ple d'anglesos i segur que l'ambient era genial, però el lloc era tuguri. I havies de pujar 5 pisos per arribar al bar! El meu proper hostal seria a la platja de Ipanema, més net però més car. Vaig coneìxer una noi americà i tots dos vam anar a passejar per la platja de Ipanema. Era la festa nacional, celebràven la independència de Portugal, i el carrer estava tallat, com cada diumenge. Tothom passejava pel mig del carrer i hi havia molta gent.</div>
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Era com a les pel·lícules americanes quan ensenyen algunes avingudes de platja amb gent corrent, ties bones en patins o homes musculats en bicicleta, però millor que Los Angeles segons el meu amic americà. Aquell dia vaig entendre el perquè de la depil·lació brasilera. Si volen portar aquests mini biquinis, més val que es depilin bé! I les dones carioques són espectaculars. Tenen unes corbes que em marejo només de pensar-hi! L'ambient a la platja era fantàstic, tothom banyant-se, jugant a volei o a futvolei, corrent, patinant, anat en bici, passejant el gos o mirant la gent passar. A peu vam creuar tot Leblon fins al mirador. Estic enamorat de Rio!</div>
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L'endemà vaig tornar a canviar d'hostal per un de més barat i una mica més brut. Ho podia soportar. Allà em vaig trobar amb l'holandès que havia conegut a Pipa una setmana abans i junts vam anar a gaudir de les vistes des del mirador del Crist Redemptor. Espectacular la vista del Pà de Sucre i les platges de Rio. Hi havia una gentada horrorosa però la visita va valer la pena.</div>
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El següent dia vaig caminar des de Ipanema, fins a la muntanya de Pà de Sucre creuant Copacabana, Leme, i anat fins a la punta de Urcos. Una patejada de més de 5 hores que em va encantar. Les ciutats es coneixen caminant i això és el que vaig fer. Les vistes des del mirador, naturalment precioses i fins i tot ens vam quedar per veure la posta de sol i la ciutat il·luminada de nit.</div>
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L'endemà vaig tornar a caminar: la platja de Botafogo i la de Flamengo fins arribar al centre. I el darrer dia van ser 7 hores sense parar, ni dinar, pel centre, Lapa, Santa Teresa i tornada a Flamengo. Les cames em tremolàven i em feia mal tot. Vaig arribar de nit a l'hostal només amb forces per una dutxa calenta i anar a dormir.</div>
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Rio és una ciutat plena de viatgers i turistes, és a dir gent a maletes i gent amb motxil·les, ambdós conjunts sortint de festa cada dia, anant a les nits de samba a Lapa, les discos de Leblon i les festes a altres hostals. Cada matí veus les cares ressacoses dels més joves explicant les seves darreres conquestes. Doncs jo segueixo amb la meva apatia i no surto de festa. Una cosa és estar en un poblet on vas a fer unes cerveses i tornes a l'hostal quan vols. L'altra molt diferent és estar en una ciutat immensa on has d'agafar un taxi que et costa una fortuna i has de pagar una entrada més cara que a les discoteques de casa per entrar en un tuguri.</div>
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Me n'oblidava! El darrer dia vaig agafar un tour a la favela de Rocinha, la més gran de Latinoamèrica amb una població de més de 200 mil persones. Vam agafar una moto fins a la part alta de la favela i des d'allà aniriem baixant a peu creuant els carrerons estrets. Aquesta favela té una carrer principal que va fins a dalt i que és l'arteria principal. Com més a prop visquis d'aquest carrer, més valor tindrà la casa perquè hi pots accedir fàcilment amb transport públic. Sinó toca fer cames! La experiència va ser molt interessant i fins i tot vam creuar una zona coneguda per estar controlada pels traficants de drogues. També vam tenir la oportunitat de passar al costat d'un home amb un fusell enorme! Aquest és el millor remei per quan ve la policia.</div>
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Ilha Grande era la meva següent destinació, una illa al sud de Rio que tothom m'havia recomanat. Molt verda, muntanyosa i amb platges fantàstiques. M'ho crec però jo estava aquí a l'hivern i em va ploure durant quasi tota la setmana que hi vaig estar. L'aigüa era d'un color verdós degut a les pluges i poques excursions vaig poder fer. La setmana de pluja va coincidir amb un encostipat que vaig intentar curar, sense èxit. Em passava els dies mirant vídeos al meu ordinador, concretament la sèrie Entourage. Ja estic a la sisena temporada i encara me'n queden dues!</div>
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Diuen que la platja Lopes Mendes de Ilha Grande està al top ten de platges brasileres. Això també m'ho crec però els núbols i un vent fred em van fer marxar abans de l'hora prevista. Durant aquests dies també vaig tenir temps de conèixer gent de tot el món, però el més divertit va ser quan una parella em mira i ell em diu, en un to ferm i segur "tu ets el noi andorrà que vam conèixer l'any passat a Planet Baobab, a Botswana" (<a href="http://mainocaminaresol.blogspot.com/search/label/Botswana">http://mainocaminaresol.blogspot.com/search/label/Botswana</a>). No m'ho podia creure!!! L'any passat estàven de vacances a Botswana i ens vam conèixer a la vora de la piscina, i aquest any va decidir de venir de vacances a Brasil i me'ls torno a trobar! Quines són les probabilitats? Increïble.</div>
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Em vaig escapar de Iha Grande encara amb el meu insuportable encostipat per anar a Paraty, un poblet amb un centre històric molt maco, que s'ha mantingut igual des de fa diversos segles. Allà vaig anar a fer un passeig en barca per les illes i també vaig anar a passar el dia a les platges de Trinidade. Tot molt maco però en 3 dies està tot vist.</div>
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Un autocar em portaria, via Sao Paulo, ciutat gegantina que vaig decidir no visitar, a Foz de Iguaçú que és la ciutat que fa frontera amb Paraguay. Divertit va ser trobar-me a Brasil a la tercera persona d'origen Iraní. La primera era en Habib de Dinamarca, la segona un noi holandès, i ara la Yasmine de Inglaterra. Molt mona ella i amb un nas grec que li donava molta personalitat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTL1JbC-X2bKLu5RudYFT9qUGMlkO92_LfzKEa433eQZyfBzwRYmmjrI92THcD6QlfCT9MeVsxnQ6DWnrlYEBPcW7vVJ6aZ_-wBrbwyU-Qplxri-J9GnzFC-HSpHrF7AjMHY0noxnyQreP/s1600/Brasi+%25281903%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659835907058246162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTL1JbC-X2bKLu5RudYFT9qUGMlkO92_LfzKEa433eQZyfBzwRYmmjrI92THcD6QlfCT9MeVsxnQ6DWnrlYEBPcW7vVJ6aZ_-wBrbwyU-Qplxri-J9GnzFC-HSpHrF7AjMHY0noxnyQreP/s400/Brasi+%25281903%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKyMpDOJtMCO4TiQUuGaVwMdHncZfH5S1l5cTdguWl9okL9_Gf9rmlzqAy1g8xpYasHzAuJ-8tZXWTkp5gM_mpa_0YxRwTvNaI1GXUEfNqzcOjRZKpShSrR-6tYGAVh6Kl0Y8k-_g6lYu/s1600/Brasi+%25281909%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659835908657394290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAKyMpDOJtMCO4TiQUuGaVwMdHncZfH5S1l5cTdguWl9okL9_Gf9rmlzqAy1g8xpYasHzAuJ-8tZXWTkp5gM_mpa_0YxRwTvNaI1GXUEfNqzcOjRZKpShSrR-6tYGAVh6Kl0Y8k-_g6lYu/s400/Brasi+%25281909%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v7ghM_diTeClR7KzsmUgnr5d3xMqSuwA-53-t8sLJuKccD9cKRNOS5Ekdu1CO5HlED0E-jT6LGyW_xmfMJ8eg5c83v68KYXkfxzfTFjIzPIwMNMQSUIbMLAUmZLc8NG_0-6rFsAupZmO/s1600/Brasi+%25281925%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659835904048913010" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-v7ghM_diTeClR7KzsmUgnr5d3xMqSuwA-53-t8sLJuKccD9cKRNOS5Ekdu1CO5HlED0E-jT6LGyW_xmfMJ8eg5c83v68KYXkfxzfTFjIzPIwMNMQSUIbMLAUmZLc8NG_0-6rFsAupZmO/s400/Brasi+%25281925%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 400px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 300px;" /></a><br />
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Brasil ha sigut un país molt interessant. He tornat a viatjar sol de forma intermitent en un país ple de contrastos: la selva al nord, el desert de dunes i llacunes d'aigüa dolça, les ciutats colonials, les platges amb palmeres, les dones brasileres i la festa. Puc dir que feia mesos que no feia tanta festa, potser des de que vaig marxar de casa fa dos anys. Un país que m'ha encantat però que és enorme i car. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixSEDsaPlTdqXw2fU72U31GL6572pWeAsD2WaXrHwoVYuuFd8n_fVGa83xeTW4VNJSn772XMnvxd4-4ufJMx_xDAhQrhNdaNWGmyP29VD810dWCbmL-x-BAiFzuOo4J6Ri2rTM-wwz8P8q/s1600/Brasi+%25281946%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659835338832468098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixSEDsaPlTdqXw2fU72U31GL6572pWeAsD2WaXrHwoVYuuFd8n_fVGa83xeTW4VNJSn772XMnvxd4-4ufJMx_xDAhQrhNdaNWGmyP29VD810dWCbmL-x-BAiFzuOo4J6Ri2rTM-wwz8P8q/s400/Brasi+%25281946%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCKR_OAEay__GC5bHRCg9_EgRqKGR3XAcjDSawFr4_ILFy0I7WuAcKcR8XZrUNZRvFlc5LylMTn24Yk-2qJ_rGQ883eSm2fh6hW4oHdyylvltQ54BvDnPstJxMpHkgfobUhCJMvbMn_zvG/s1600/Brasi+%25281958%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659835337122716210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCKR_OAEay__GC5bHRCg9_EgRqKGR3XAcjDSawFr4_ILFy0I7WuAcKcR8XZrUNZRvFlc5LylMTn24Yk-2qJ_rGQ883eSm2fh6hW4oHdyylvltQ54BvDnPstJxMpHkgfobUhCJMvbMn_zvG/s400/Brasi+%25281958%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
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Paraguay seria el darrer país que visitaria en aquest continent abans de fer el gran salt des de Buenos Aires. No tenia expectatives sobre Paraguay ja que tothom diu que no hi ha res per veure però jo estava intrigat. Sigui com sigui, això us ho explicaré la propera vegada. Fins aviat!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHC5qLTaDkN_L6O3pxSmCsXe_XTqIMvVdWdnOkPJF6WBfvLqWHzqRzBxZlyKgxtWh02aIiHvTqqSL2xvfBrIOYKqgUnCWwLuv_-8p9xDznVNAdfdKB4JL2X5cLd0sPc7EgHg1OOHZRBBKX/s1600/Brasi+%25282081%2529.JPG"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5659834863095979346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHC5qLTaDkN_L6O3pxSmCsXe_XTqIMvVdWdnOkPJF6WBfvLqWHzqRzBxZlyKgxtWh02aIiHvTqqSL2xvfBrIOYKqgUnCWwLuv_-8p9xDznVNAdfdKB4JL2X5cLd0sPc7EgHg1OOHZRBBKX/s400/Brasi+%25282081%2529.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 300px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 400px;" /></a>Marc Collhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05200444110723191721noreply@blogger.com4